tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80345631943295470652024-02-07T12:51:10.809-08:00Murdoch JamiesonAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-20429972928748828712018-11-09T02:01:00.000-08:002018-11-09T02:01:01.036-08:00Laying some demons to rest<br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Sat in the passenger seat of
Tony’s car, I asked him the geeky question of what was his favourite route of
the trip. He then bounced the same question back… I took a moment to think. I’m
not sure there was a specific route, but more the fact I was able to trad climb
again and trust my ability to climb and place gear.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihXIgrRqrQXCdp7T86D5OV8zQWhR6qdYDHbQzxRGtm5oWLEi88pWwTPfMxpK5qkBqf3loZFvIAjsqk7kvB6QXNu7Wczo44PidofqkIqbG9akM2yyRQSCn-3sdZkGFm7MFauCmuLsEIejFT/s1600/43135977511_c5904bcd66_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihXIgrRqrQXCdp7T86D5OV8zQWhR6qdYDHbQzxRGtm5oWLEi88pWwTPfMxpK5qkBqf3loZFvIAjsqk7kvB6QXNu7Wczo44PidofqkIqbG9akM2yyRQSCn-3sdZkGFm7MFauCmuLsEIejFT/s320/43135977511_c5904bcd66_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain mixed climbing with a found bulldog.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">I’ve been very poor with writing
a blog this year. For the first time, ‘life’ has caught up with me. I bought a
house. The keys were collected on the 4th July and my climbing turned upside
down. Oh what a disaster, poor me, life is so unfair and so on. It was a kick
in the balls. The best and driest summer in my climbing life and I opted to dig
holes, lay insulation, install a wood burner and shit like that rather than
cash in.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Short term pain, long term
gain.</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxLzIwnWkpyh7dasmjFs7HMLwaRT4fzM5rUtBqenLhV0HfnOQ-4d_52bCbnc0-utegw4F7QISHJGX_YI0DQtBmDpdUHWOR3gljFeEwQj5KvYRq6hIEfbvpkNZIK719gjI3VLezvRVxqvfi/s1600/28261699717_18d0cc1021_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxLzIwnWkpyh7dasmjFs7HMLwaRT4fzM5rUtBqenLhV0HfnOQ-4d_52bCbnc0-utegw4F7QISHJGX_YI0DQtBmDpdUHWOR3gljFeEwQj5KvYRq6hIEfbvpkNZIK719gjI3VLezvRVxqvfi/s320/28261699717_18d0cc1021_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben Nevis in the late evening light</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">In reflection, the summer hasn’t
been that crap. After almost killing myself and Iain on The Ben back in June,
climbing was a bit of a stop start. I was physically fine and capable, but I
guess I’m only admitting it now, 4 months later that I was pretty mentally
affected by the experience.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Ripping an
entire pitch of gear out is probably one of the worst experiences a climber can
go through.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Lucky for me, I was high in
the hills with just space below me.</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">4 days free at the end of June, I
had planned to climb with Iain. He sent me a messages saying that even climbing
on Comb Buttress was too hot! So with mixed emotion, I opted for doing ‘The Bat
E2’. It was a nice re introduction to trad climbing. Hats off to Robin Smith.<o:p></o:p></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdo7-sTDqCrwmX0rbiNnUDQExBXm-7wxdXFbp25OPn6Jq3mvyRWZUThtBjtA7NNlth9JumI11hqzMYR1UPC5Zuo8x-UtjMw684dDDAfi4U9WoRA8waRWZD7a33lhaKHWJgeh2Q9vJre-b/s1600/29203601248_e86a062a68_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKdo7-sTDqCrwmX0rbiNnUDQExBXm-7wxdXFbp25OPn6Jq3mvyRWZUThtBjtA7NNlth9JumI11hqzMYR1UPC5Zuo8x-UtjMw684dDDAfi4U9WoRA8waRWZD7a33lhaKHWJgeh2Q9vJre-b/s320/29203601248_e86a062a68_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 2 or 3 of 'The Bat'</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Iain, told me about his and Dave
Macleods new E7 ‘Mr Fahrenheit’ on the Comb. It was an easy sale. Having
walked past that buttress many times, its always covered in snow and ice so it
was a novelty to spend 2 days up there in shorts and t shirt. The starting slab
was issued with a health warning and so I opted to check it out as no one wants
to hurt themselves. To gain access to the top, you do the traverse of ‘Don’t
Die of Ignorance’. That was rather exposed warm up. I can only imagine at the
moment how exciting that would be with tools and crampons.</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7icrRHBohY2s87iAZYaAAtGWfymZx-8DTx25aF8QQU7Vn_uz3het_HNp9AmsQ6nCziq46SXHdY8kCaQHcR_iS579jW7E4SclBTql871_7KMxTNancGAQudiCT6tYhSeNl8ZNPfE1M8UO/s1600/42231915895_a125f7a3d9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl7icrRHBohY2s87iAZYaAAtGWfymZx-8DTx25aF8QQU7Vn_uz3het_HNp9AmsQ6nCziq46SXHdY8kCaQHcR_iS579jW7E4SclBTql871_7KMxTNancGAQudiCT6tYhSeNl8ZNPfE1M8UO/s320/42231915895_a125f7a3d9_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Don't Die of Ignorance' traverse.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qVtSTfQwTC8UIUNNbFLwS1YuRiPNRPaIOJZ3vTmJGIYzJvRMLCuaJxTdNB4lGfCfcedckVuFxB1RumguRA9rD7V4xYe6-bfYp7FCbpbLZi1H4TQM6BFRK-V-fp8abINei_0hRA53XO5P/s1600/mr+F.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qVtSTfQwTC8UIUNNbFLwS1YuRiPNRPaIOJZ3vTmJGIYzJvRMLCuaJxTdNB4lGfCfcedckVuFxB1RumguRA9rD7V4xYe6-bfYp7FCbpbLZi1H4TQM6BFRK-V-fp8abINei_0hRA53XO5P/s320/mr+F.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me shunting the slab on the lower half of 'Mr Fahrenheit' </td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2r0j5gSC3oktCkuo99nX5fmV9MRjL4v9sy2KCcaOvmYfR40OpsPgI6MkYdVp4ymG7QhNye48hyphenhyphenylkk5MirCN6pE9xyDMlEkD1jO_Pcu6VDalsMCq36GBun8V7oXQobHH9f5SYHHjRLeF/s1600/41324854090_5084362d55_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2r0j5gSC3oktCkuo99nX5fmV9MRjL4v9sy2KCcaOvmYfR40OpsPgI6MkYdVp4ymG7QhNye48hyphenhyphenylkk5MirCN6pE9xyDMlEkD1jO_Pcu6VDalsMCq36GBun8V7oXQobHH9f5SYHHjRLeF/s320/41324854090_5084362d55_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on the first ascent of 'Don't stop me now E6 6b'</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Despite the amazing summer, there
was the odd thunderstorms forecast.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Unfortunately these were falling on the days I had arranged with Iain
for a visit to the Central Slabs.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">But
sitting here thinking about it, I’m not sure how well I would have fared up on
those long run outs with a bruised mind.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7U5jG_5NK3XCiJvFNsn4bvbqJIVjufVeXGJnMxLUWp9NvShgsbPzjhgKqpbeXyyOhaNibBKPHT3gb-VmfXJdYSCjWdJyaKD9y8Z0nugk7whJMz86l7D9qG-wn5qoBEzSuht1LZXGKpSBn/s1600/41320065200_e05f7ba5c0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7U5jG_5NK3XCiJvFNsn4bvbqJIVjufVeXGJnMxLUWp9NvShgsbPzjhgKqpbeXyyOhaNibBKPHT3gb-VmfXJdYSCjWdJyaKD9y8Z0nugk7whJMz86l7D9qG-wn5qoBEzSuht1LZXGKpSBn/s320/41320065200_e05f7ba5c0_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow tunnel </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">As many folk know, Caff is on a
rampage to finish ticking the iconic Extreme Rock book.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">So, I had the pleasure of a day out with him
and Cubby on Church Door Buttress in Glencoe.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">This crag has the reputation for being slow to dry.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">So, we cashed in and ticked Kingpin E3, Lost Ark E4 and Temple of Doom E3.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Lost Ark felt rather
testing in places, not helped by Cubby shouting up comments about his ascent of
it which was before I was born!</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Legend.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXZY9dbpMOFhjkAGV7mdeZIt_jYjUsxj63B54F5BVirdb2k_65-FwxblHzrjZRx8K5HYnAQGx7bDdSKvr5DNWLN8xajJsi0NRg16Fo_Keuv7R3k7pMWq_Vz3jAngfsNweEnyyY4QF-Sckj/s1600/41511656180_50d54be7dc_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXZY9dbpMOFhjkAGV7mdeZIt_jYjUsxj63B54F5BVirdb2k_65-FwxblHzrjZRx8K5HYnAQGx7bDdSKvr5DNWLN8xajJsi0NRg16Fo_Keuv7R3k7pMWq_Vz3jAngfsNweEnyyY4QF-Sckj/s320/41511656180_50d54be7dc_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church Door Buttress</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-0sdPrQuv8Ptajg6fyIAe4F-3m6CAhb6PIaY-Z5mrIJRjpS8_MoSZJoqDJohSPGrdB9f_AUk1I0LpxP1YY6n32I7pqyJathYUwHYi-gCx3cad_eeWoGPXhQMO-y9k7uF5KJ5AQ5qReBQ/s1600/29451276068_1fca769a1c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-0sdPrQuv8Ptajg6fyIAe4F-3m6CAhb6PIaY-Z5mrIJRjpS8_MoSZJoqDJohSPGrdB9f_AUk1I0LpxP1YY6n32I7pqyJathYUwHYi-gCx3cad_eeWoGPXhQMO-y9k7uF5KJ5AQ5qReBQ/s320/29451276068_1fca769a1c_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caff following Pitch 1 of 'Lost Ark'</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Andy Inglis and I had a week
booked for a UK rock trip.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">North Wales
provided the obvious choice with a mixed forecast. The highlights from the week
were, Andy testing the bolt stub and thread on ‘The Cad E6’, me pulling a hold
off (after shaking out for 5 min on it!) on ‘Shittlegurber E5’, feeling
ridiculously week and shit climbing at LPT and just been in North Wales.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Oh, and realising that buying a house in the Highlands may not have been the correct move.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">But I always think that when I visit.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">I looked at ‘The Clown’, but I mentally couldn’t bring myself to get on
it.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Not enough trad climbing in the bank
this year for that nonsense.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Next
spring.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Thanks to Peter Herd and Dave
Evans for providing a floor at the start and end of the trip.</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxTkNuev-0peEai9GsCOpVn7e-gGBWtRnLQDCItMRELYNEB92yqMS6MFSPfq8wGl1j-DkzUH9aKdY7cOINQkkZxUMK5hIb_wBjOY0AVzWEVHMlRGMjO_Jd2DNvIATql-BKf543r0o86bVA/s1600/43960833481_f1d1bd26fe_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxTkNuev-0peEai9GsCOpVn7e-gGBWtRnLQDCItMRELYNEB92yqMS6MFSPfq8wGl1j-DkzUH9aKdY7cOINQkkZxUMK5hIb_wBjOY0AVzWEVHMlRGMjO_Jd2DNvIATql-BKf543r0o86bVA/s320/43960833481_f1d1bd26fe_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Stack</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">A trip to the Dolimites had been
planned for the first 2 weeks of September with Tony Stone.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">On my arrival in Sheffield, the long range
forecast looked rather mixed and unsettled.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">For once the southern half of the UK looked good.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">I had never been to the South West before so
we took the opportunity to faff around there for our holiday.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-681R8Poj6cNRTBox-vfzoeyvblEnNXXlFYluFvSohaQCIM7hbTEZRaJsV5FazIx0Fj8oDhtGSnZmNbXYq1X8EPdqYRFyipwNFkZTDQ7AEbwn7qZL6Yz2Sh0Za_OMdS7y_VwWlqNctMpW/s1600/43878575255_614d66d0d1_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-681R8Poj6cNRTBox-vfzoeyvblEnNXXlFYluFvSohaQCIM7hbTEZRaJsV5FazIx0Fj8oDhtGSnZmNbXYq1X8EPdqYRFyipwNFkZTDQ7AEbwn7qZL6Yz2Sh0Za_OMdS7y_VwWlqNctMpW/s320/43878575255_614d66d0d1_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony starting the trip out with 'II Duce'</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYosjVQIQI25dZyrIYOzKJd5VJoc7rlZd91zViSvXYrgWZzrHoV5W5YZosDImXb-OzbuFDScgAHQlT0yeMN102BCBow9gxf9PfKd7yiCDIoL3KrdVVQ5wCj4ZdyUXNjkvtvIxm5O8fo6g5/s1600/44407954262_4b032f342b_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYosjVQIQI25dZyrIYOzKJd5VJoc7rlZd91zViSvXYrgWZzrHoV5W5YZosDImXb-OzbuFDScgAHQlT0yeMN102BCBow9gxf9PfKd7yiCDIoL3KrdVVQ5wCj4ZdyUXNjkvtvIxm5O8fo6g5/s320/44407954262_4b032f342b_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at Sharpnose</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Lundy was suggested so we spent 5
days there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On our arrival, Tony sent me
up ‘Supernova E5 6b’ as a warm up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He
said it was a bit tricky to get started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Dam right it was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, I
eventually got established and made steady progress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sun came out, walls were a bit green, my
feet were exploding and my mouth was dry…. Just get the excuses out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guide mentions a peg…. A stub
remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stupidly thought the crux was
low down and all I had to do was just steady my way to the top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crack slants right, it widens and nothing
remains for the feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ll spare you the
details, I sagged onto some gear. I topped out in a mess.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dry mouthed, lathered in sweat along with
bleeding toes from swelling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not an
enjoyable experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMBSSloZG20hq2eOddirgJxL98ldG7eqEBrl5bAi9wfPvuazwD-rrf8BSQm0ej3WBocmKDoU-BT0FAbJ6wkfaLSJAsuzZdB-RLhFpb_DaSi-IFT5wRVOR9TlKhQwG6u8jbEL8OEagJMuXn/s1600/42977473380_a0593401c8_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMBSSloZG20hq2eOddirgJxL98ldG7eqEBrl5bAi9wfPvuazwD-rrf8BSQm0ej3WBocmKDoU-BT0FAbJ6wkfaLSJAsuzZdB-RLhFpb_DaSi-IFT5wRVOR9TlKhQwG6u8jbEL8OEagJMuXn/s320/42977473380_a0593401c8_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony re climbing 'Controlled Burning' after part of it falling down.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">I was impressed with the South
West.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">A corner of Britain which I’ve
been aware of but never made the effort to get to.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">I thought that Bosigran was top quality.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Although it was a bit too hot for a pair of Scots
at times so there was obviously some grumbling.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Visiting the crags around Lands End, I couldn’t help but think about all
these people who walk, cycle, crawl, hop their way up North to John O
Groats.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">It’s a long way and I’m not
inspired to do it.</span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;">Back home, I was back to house
faff under the watchful eye of my pal Donnie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>My DIY skills have gone from absolutely shit to just shit so that’s something
to be proud of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Adding insulation,
flooring the attic, digging out a slope in the garden, looking at curtains, I’m
learning a few things.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But my motivation
is beginning to slow down which is great and I can regain my climbing psyche
again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMfTYvXqZyL1AFRtf-Wg3mW1w4w0b3WBrUe0Ic1xACz8r_H1zv350QCjKa7cBdyo_I8qBDXF4n9HTD3y-1RH5Sw5DOqVTCBXi9ozePbWF1O1z6LKP8aJuwca31fxWsUm0-jh3LUi8NaKz/s1600/44961404074_d8e2d8fbec_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMfTYvXqZyL1AFRtf-Wg3mW1w4w0b3WBrUe0Ic1xACz8r_H1zv350QCjKa7cBdyo_I8qBDXF4n9HTD3y-1RH5Sw5DOqVTCBXi9ozePbWF1O1z6LKP8aJuwca31fxWsUm0-jh3LUi8NaKz/s320/44961404074_d8e2d8fbec_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Torridon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Its autumn now.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Last week there was some snow and everyone
was jumping up and down with excitement.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Even I was.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Lots of pictures of
folk ledge shuffling and spraying all over the internet.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">I can’t wait to see it in a few months
time.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Meanwhile, the friction in
Torridon last Friday was Velcro and I managed to open the bouldering season
with ‘Wee Baws 7B’.</span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">Not exactly the best
training for a looming sport climbing trip to El Chorro but hey ho.</span><br />
<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVpags-TlRFB7VqpVIyrHBhhUuodOg_FKRguu5IGYKxE2gaq9aDg9Utk60237oXXqrr7ln_hFQWqVhGzV0fGRLDN16jGu7y379zNT2FBWUigqSmd3fAwEFILftRJYUum4OMzJkh4Kp_ZVn/s1600/43784553720_2e30edcae6_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVpags-TlRFB7VqpVIyrHBhhUuodOg_FKRguu5IGYKxE2gaq9aDg9Utk60237oXXqrr7ln_hFQWqVhGzV0fGRLDN16jGu7y379zNT2FBWUigqSmd3fAwEFILftRJYUum4OMzJkh4Kp_ZVn/s320/43784553720_2e30edcae6_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaz on 'Potential 7'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-90939919889354205272018-06-10T01:41:00.000-07:002018-06-10T01:41:33.243-07:00A big whipper on Ben Nevis<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Drinking a mug of tea in the CIC hut on Ben Nevis at the end
of the day was a pleasure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Normally
after a day on the Ben, Iain by habit needs to go in the hut, relax and enjoy a
pot of tea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Easy for him I think.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Normally I am chomping to get back due to my
slight impatience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mainly due to the
fact I’ll have some arrangement or work at the other side of the country the
next day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But this day was
different.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took time to enjoy the
company and reflect on our day….<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEcJIW29ECN0B9DJuozUcvThiCemoWaM7g_GZNjEdxTnGouF7vsd11DZWWyct7C0Mxnp6hP7YnbHFubpkWLQ8i0PxiMVNMXp7bv4zmQMEIIXSRtF4s_46BhMuQb5A8-n3cGoRk46m1zPp/s1600/42602007372_67e0945a27_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="1600" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEcJIW29ECN0B9DJuozUcvThiCemoWaM7g_GZNjEdxTnGouF7vsd11DZWWyct7C0Mxnp6hP7YnbHFubpkWLQ8i0PxiMVNMXp7bv4zmQMEIIXSRtF4s_46BhMuQb5A8-n3cGoRk46m1zPp/s320/42602007372_67e0945a27_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben Nevis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Over the years, I have managed to work my way through the
climbs in the guidebook for Carn Dearg Buttress on Ben Nevis. A bit annoying really as I love that badass
cliff. Iain of course has opened up a few
more but the details have only ever been discreetly published. A few years ago I repeated a route of his and
Tony Stones up the right wall of Sassenach.
A nice steady E6 wall climb.
Highly recommended for anyone operating at that grade. Recently we have had a great spell of
weather. For the first time ‘Life’ has
caught up with me and so I haven’t managed to capitalise on it. I had a day booked with Iain and so we opted
for Carn Dearg. He was happy to hold my
ropes. His suggestion was the left arête
of Banana Groove. It’s an E6 called ‘Calgucus’ he and Rick Campbell
established in 2009. I was easily sold.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving the belay at the base of Banana Groove, I clipped
the top wire of the belay, placed a cam, unclipped the wire, placed another 2 wires
higher… then reversed, faffed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
clipped the belay wire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thin moves left,
you gain the arête.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s sharp but
satisfying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Airy moves up I gained more
wire placements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They seemed solid (Size
5 DMM offset and a big BD micro).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More
tricky moves and the right wall overhangs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I gained a strenuous undercut and manged to place 2 small C3’s and 1
micro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The sequence above was unobvious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Strenuous and technical was my initial
thoughts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I probed up and down many
times trying to unlock something.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Iain
had no knowledge so I was on my own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
felt a bit of fear so placed another DMM small peanut. Now, I am a pretty
calculated climber I like to think… sometimes over cautious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No one wants to die or hurt themselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So basing it on that, I committed to a
sequence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, I was pumped and my
sequence was not working out so I went for the lob.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The gear at my waist, nothing new I
thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fuck me, I went for the ride of
my life.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That cluster ripped clean out, spinning upside down, the
next cluster ripped, I’m still having flashing images of the ledges of
Sassenach off to my left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I braced my
body having time to think.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The next
minutes I was on the biggest swing of my life under the big roofs of Sassenach
with a pile of gear upside down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘Oh
bugger I thought’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Correcting my
orientation my ribs ached along with 2 rope burns across the inside of my right
forearm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Keeping the swing, I got into
the wall and pulled my way onto the left rib.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Glancing up, Iain was pinned upside down glaring down with the rope
pinning him down. I thought I had had the rough ride.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj12nT5lUD75Ikuq-glLpHgrMQ8WHu7E6ax0FYhtuVggz3Fcepz_B1O2DSj2ClTChk1YP0IaJf6Ak7ES_uDPtGJXzFLC6IUE7tXo0KAK3P-YfwrnTh6JB1IqbccKARqtQ1qaMjp2TO5JjKS/s1600/P1000503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj12nT5lUD75Ikuq-glLpHgrMQ8WHu7E6ax0FYhtuVggz3Fcepz_B1O2DSj2ClTChk1YP0IaJf6Ak7ES_uDPtGJXzFLC6IUE7tXo0KAK3P-YfwrnTh6JB1IqbccKARqtQ1qaMjp2TO5JjKS/s320/P1000503.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Arete (Photo:Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Poor Iain was groaning in pain. He never said too much apart from telling me
he smacked his head (he was wearing a helmet), was feeling sick and sweating. He informed me he tied the rope off and to
just give him a minute. I was clamped to
the rib and placed 2 wires to secure myself to give myself a minute to just
take in what had happened. I had a
growing concern for Iain. How long do I wait
till I climb back up? He seemed adamant
to give him a moment… Eventually he partially recovered and I climbed back up
with him belaying me fine.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A nervous laughter was exchanged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was agreed pretty quickly that a pot of
tea in the CIC hut was needed. I knew
something was wrong. It was 1.30pm, there
was still light and Iain wanted to go home! </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By the time we had left the hut, Iain was fine, chatting
away and felt back to normal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
good to see the human side of him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He felt
content at the fact he has happy to leave, go home and enjoy the weather rather
than feel the need to be out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt
sick to be honest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was the one who
took the 30 meter whipper, but I came away relatively un marked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Iain however took the impact.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hats off to him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He doesn’t remember much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Obviously he was checked out in A&E and
was deemed fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A stitch was required
to his chin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His poor knuckles have no
skin left and he has a lump on his head.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHrVLWvLmpdMRg1o6LmFwWKjS0SUpfizIRmkcQXBj4FRv2U_zRyrQYqawaUzlt0PLaBWpA5q49AtW9eZlgMMIXOOGy7LS4fuxgi5S-pIb9s3z3fQFY82z_3QWr4jqWwxD9reIqiLtl9bfV/s1600/28791376398_17e3051e52_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHrVLWvLmpdMRg1o6LmFwWKjS0SUpfizIRmkcQXBj4FRv2U_zRyrQYqawaUzlt0PLaBWpA5q49AtW9eZlgMMIXOOGy7LS4fuxgi5S-pIb9s3z3fQFY82z_3QWr4jqWwxD9reIqiLtl9bfV/s320/28791376398_17e3051e52_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rope Burn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Clearly a lot of analysis has been happening in my
head. Cubby has taken great interest and
has turned into Sherlock Holmes carrying out an enquiry. Jules
too has given it his interest. I do feel
a bit daft but it’s been reassuring speaking with those two as we all know from
the history books, they have taken their fair share of rides down the cliff. A few days have passed and I’m pretty keen to
get back out (its good to see I am frustrated about the humidity, thunderstorms
and midges rather than the fear of climbing).
I guess that’s the joy of harder climbing; I sign up for it . Having done lots of hard trad over the years,
it’s good to have a gentle reminder that things can be pretty dangerous. We walked away and I have my own thoughts on
how to deal with stressful trad in the future.
We all get lazy about placing that initial bomber runner. But from this experience, I’m sure you can
see its importance. Iain had actually
placed a wire at his waist which stopped the upward pull too much. Without, that would it have been much
worse? Do we all place wires at belays
to take upward pulls? Unusually we were
using a single rope that day. That was
out of the norm for me. Why do I have rope burn on the inside of my right arm? A lot of things
to think about. So take what you want
from that.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-55198054300284479132018-04-12T12:25:00.000-07:002018-04-12T12:25:21.593-07:00Winter. The Middle Part of the Season<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The last time John Orr and I climbed together was a Sunday
back in Feburary 2014.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We made the first
winter ascent of route called ‘Root of All Evil’ IX,8 on Beinn Eighe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know what happened but the last 4
years have slipped away and all we have managed was a quick social evening whenever I was
in North Wales.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Anyway, John has been
busy with the guides scheme which means his personal climbing has taken a back
seat for parts of the year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the start
of the winter, he sent me some dates of when he would be in Scotland and was
keen to hook up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He obviously pointed
out that he has only been skiing and had done no climbing of any form
recently.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnGAMHS8oDyEaNJ-ekqcpOWIAYYp2WU9rCRwNoxifzsDI7b2P6-y4pLsEKiZNCr3CHLnj7Ka3z2jbUbWV_Gd-rMpKfI3g-3yG2hm3znuYDb4_Rge4H2eCALYlNhvqAkIQYf4lszY40ueT/s1600/40014608002_683e641e9e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="1600" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBnGAMHS8oDyEaNJ-ekqcpOWIAYYp2WU9rCRwNoxifzsDI7b2P6-y4pLsEKiZNCr3CHLnj7Ka3z2jbUbWV_Gd-rMpKfI3g-3yG2hm3znuYDb4_Rge4H2eCALYlNhvqAkIQYf4lszY40ueT/s320/40014608002_683e641e9e_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ben Nevis</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The season rolled on by and many crags came into good
condition.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>John and my date was fast
approaching and there was that little reminder each time that he has only been
skiing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Centurian VIII,8 seemed to keep
popping its head up in our discussions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Naturally John had his reservations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A long hard and sustained winter route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, the forecast was perfect and its rarely in such good winter
condition John agreed it was a good opportunity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I must admit, I did have new route psyche on
Beinn Eighe burning at the back of my mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I disguised this by suggesting a nice short easy day, but John never
bought that one as he had been there before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The deal was, he would have a go at the first pitch then I would lead
the next 3 hard pitch’s then take it from there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And that’s exactly what happened.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pitch 2 was the most time consuming as its
long and sustained.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Higher up the route,
I feared the route 2 traverse would be a nightmare due to the volume of snow on the slabs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But as I started the
traverse, it became almost a walk due to the snow being fairly useful with a
slight but of consolidation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trench
formed in the snow down Ledge Route at 9 pm was a welcome sight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdHBj2MioVjgic9O08En30t2exib4kX7qN6hi9R_fnzduLQhxcBOY0pYsL8YGI5PYXWpFZA3A_kD5IrxtSWlA1hhvX9S4Jl2BgZJbMXogfVpBfdws2IQGwTf4JefnbJ1Kziw6ZkKEoDHaK/s1600/27744929_700103787634_1621431429_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1041" data-original-width="1600" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdHBj2MioVjgic9O08En30t2exib4kX7qN6hi9R_fnzduLQhxcBOY0pYsL8YGI5PYXWpFZA3A_kD5IrxtSWlA1hhvX9S4Jl2BgZJbMXogfVpBfdws2IQGwTf4JefnbJ1Kziw6ZkKEoDHaK/s320/27744929_700103787634_1621431429_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following pitch 1 of Centurian (Photo: Johm Orr)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZVN2MH19vYAAXquQCcWtLgkTEDFxR2i1kuFg-InhZ7n3lTElatoFdWMiBYqxX8tidJquIMiF8ObaPQyvIBKKIyj1qmemZA6-0bJGQGxkXmZIH7hDc39jGf54aNyKuDhLwAo4xoQidZfh/s1600/39384790904_fa7b1b392f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZVN2MH19vYAAXquQCcWtLgkTEDFxR2i1kuFg-InhZ7n3lTElatoFdWMiBYqxX8tidJquIMiF8ObaPQyvIBKKIyj1qmemZA6-0bJGQGxkXmZIH7hDc39jGf54aNyKuDhLwAo4xoQidZfh/s320/39384790904_fa7b1b392f_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John following pitch 2 of Centurian (Photo: John Orr)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWhLoL0qQfpRBzlMbqytjRvK9caO7hpS6riegGHc2QzUGrSi2WYHcibNKwhAG4utsqv6xBptrR_LRtEFiZ1wYJq7jAYYAv1Ngrs8M1HmNHhZJbG68vguyX02K9Z8r8qbHZ_PrmsGg3Zh2/s1600/27746858_700103777654_1855357238_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizWhLoL0qQfpRBzlMbqytjRvK9caO7hpS6riegGHc2QzUGrSi2WYHcibNKwhAG4utsqv6xBptrR_LRtEFiZ1wYJq7jAYYAv1Ngrs8M1HmNHhZJbG68vguyX02K9Z8r8qbHZ_PrmsGg3Zh2/s320/27746858_700103777654_1855357238_o.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the thin traverse on pitch 3 of Centurian (Photo: John Orr)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHVPvq9Ax5ZhVLAJG7PtkzEIqF7abqJCGWp9Vz2UmyR9xsHPrwI5qt4NU0nyAHMEdj175pkVktcG_DzIqdFH9FWyCZDaTe-GO0_VfIq3pYyVnRm9V6SN7BSJioP3b5a-5-QbOe62SCAhp/s1600/39384764004_e9b58be01f_o+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicHVPvq9Ax5ZhVLAJG7PtkzEIqF7abqJCGWp9Vz2UmyR9xsHPrwI5qt4NU0nyAHMEdj175pkVktcG_DzIqdFH9FWyCZDaTe-GO0_VfIq3pYyVnRm9V6SN7BSJioP3b5a-5-QbOe62SCAhp/s320/39384764004_e9b58be01f_o+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John following pitch 4? I think of Centurian</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The Steeple IX,9, that would be another long winter affair I
often thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Iain Small has often
voiced his reservations about climbing it in winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is a proper winter climber preferring the
winter only ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In saying that, he
has an impressive CV of winter ascents of hard rock routes!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Living now in the modern era, I couldn’t help
but notice several reports of the Shelterstone crag been in good condition. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tentatively suggested The Steeple to Iain
and to my surprise he agreed out right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The route had already had 3 ascents, with various means of gaining the
upper pitches which include the stunning corner pitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Martin Moran and Pete Macpherson climbed a
much more pure line of the route back in 2012.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Taking in the entry summer 5a pitch’s but swapping the slabby summer 5c
pitch for the needle 5b pitch, this seemed a good option for Iain and myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrobJottg8DRAuc5lMpGRCXSylmq9BJ9Di_xrMYzojbazKBE8l37c9G3elaJpO764eydItdDLMwUI6sLfFdQQ9Z0WoCWt0gj3RXwP6Z6QQ3fEWumOZNVrpVNkxHmAFkGPTSDdSh5nuojgw/s1600/P1000199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrobJottg8DRAuc5lMpGRCXSylmq9BJ9Di_xrMYzojbazKBE8l37c9G3elaJpO764eydItdDLMwUI6sLfFdQQ9Z0WoCWt0gj3RXwP6Z6QQ3fEWumOZNVrpVNkxHmAFkGPTSDdSh5nuojgw/s320/P1000199.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Shelterstone</td></tr>
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Iain got the ball rolling on the awkward
groove first pitch. Pitch 2, the
continuation of the groove has a superbly fractured left wall. Littered with perfect pick placements, this
pitch in its own right would have a que of climbers back to Aviemore if it was
located in the Northern Corries. The
summer 5b pitch of The Needle, gave Iain a good workout. Following him, I forgot how strenuous it was
and the seconding fear started to rise exponentially. Busting my gut pulling into the finishing
groove of the pitch knocked my confidence, but I never voiced my concern. ‘Aye, that was quite tricky, nice one
Iain’. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugxGIG0aVspGT4TdQlbEwr5_8ACCq04ZscGmsbFqwH8h0RlLkZz5ChM5Rk1Z2qE9nnrp5Ipan7EdchoqN_LJ9AEWCh2ue6X2gb8YYIDjFnUr51cFzWpceh3ueC48AUQSm2ybavAaEjoQn/s1600/P1060017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiugxGIG0aVspGT4TdQlbEwr5_8ACCq04ZscGmsbFqwH8h0RlLkZz5ChM5Rk1Z2qE9nnrp5Ipan7EdchoqN_LJ9AEWCh2ue6X2gb8YYIDjFnUr51cFzWpceh3ueC48AUQSm2ybavAaEjoQn/s320/P1060017.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following pitch 1 of The Steeple (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLussqoXtnYdAnYiILUnQTl5dKFIHeveyOmaGcLrIPdLXKAE71_3uiKH7BMXGc25zVvWhDD1ZKlo-UXiANXlYsVAnx2DPHzvOa-R6S4V0c5qr19SAN2c3gKY-dY-jTqHLrNLQcJmwDy7cU/s1600/P1000208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLussqoXtnYdAnYiILUnQTl5dKFIHeveyOmaGcLrIPdLXKAE71_3uiKH7BMXGc25zVvWhDD1ZKlo-UXiANXlYsVAnx2DPHzvOa-R6S4V0c5qr19SAN2c3gKY-dY-jTqHLrNLQcJmwDy7cU/s320/P1000208.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on the Needle pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Leading the ramp and layback
groove sharpened my focus again. Pick
eating cracks are always welcome, but sometimes are hungry resulting in a stuck
tool. Some jiggery pokery, I managed to
free the tool with a raging hot temper.
Arriving at the belay below the corner, I thought ‘Oh, that looks
tricky’. At least the belay platform was
nice below which offered me some comfort. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNw0xE_4jzfE2f_kohRwY78TW8K_Nh7kXRuk36_VOhprjoXLvQ1RTAsIcMXnywReE3f3m5uNx1mFX_rx0UfiRIJQl_fhPbescZiXA9eSNgFn6duR3E_Yjpt_dKO9Klog_iV2SH8dOXJX9u/s1600/P1060034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNw0xE_4jzfE2f_kohRwY78TW8K_Nh7kXRuk36_VOhprjoXLvQ1RTAsIcMXnywReE3f3m5uNx1mFX_rx0UfiRIJQl_fhPbescZiXA9eSNgFn6duR3E_Yjpt_dKO9Klog_iV2SH8dOXJX9u/s320/P1060034.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the ramp pitch (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was still light, which was a bonus, but glancing at my watch, and
knowing the rate I would be climbing at, I knew the head torch better be
strapped on. Questing up, the initial
part is beautifully strenuous and positive.
Forgetting what this pitch was like as a summer route, I hoped the
pitch continued in a similar positive fashion.
Then I was ground to a halt.
Baggy cracks, little feet and strenuous positions, my body was cramping
up. Laybaying on tools, feet pasted on
nothing, hand jams, matching tools a thank god chalkstone was reached. Here I could just chill out and hang on. That has its advantages and
disadvantages. The rest of the pitch was
still hard and awkward to climb. With it
being winter, of course everything was covered in snow and clearing was a pain
in the ass. But climbing snowed up rock
is the stupid game we play so I’m not complaining. Of course it was dark, and topping out of the
corner with little gear left on my harness, everything was buried, there was
several times I wished it all to be over.
Finally I got myself strapped in onto the airy and lonely perch below
the final wall which guarded the easier exit ground above. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zMzRE0SAfS7XFzP-_Ut7MQuBw_ZhBthQtoYNTlseaAFz8TNrmwso-ITK9gL0Q0FiJKQkEz5gkCo2hL9TnKRkITi23LvCijx2umtHPumxxAuHjP6HFPAJB-JZ8Du_Dubl2nE-T_XELfeG/s1600/P1060039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_zMzRE0SAfS7XFzP-_Ut7MQuBw_ZhBthQtoYNTlseaAFz8TNrmwso-ITK9gL0Q0FiJKQkEz5gkCo2hL9TnKRkITi23LvCijx2umtHPumxxAuHjP6HFPAJB-JZ8Du_Dubl2nE-T_XELfeG/s320/P1060039.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the Steeple Corner pitch (Photo:Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I recalled Pete Macpherson saying that this
pitch just sucked the energy out of you.
I can confirm it does. Thankfully
for Iain, the cracks were taking cams so it was safe. Purple camalot size. Great, but not great for picks. So, some seriously strenuous pulls from him
and an snowy mantel the ropes began to feed out quicker. A pleasant sight for any tired belayer. A faint‘Safe’ was heard, this was music to my
ears. Following this pitch with cramping
hands, biceps and abdominal s was a joy in the rain. The warm weather was pushing in and our
lovely crisp winters day was over.
Standing at the base of the Sheltersone at 10pm on a Sunday night in
February pissing is not my favourite thing at that time of night. Add in the fact we had the painful walk out
of Corie Domhain through a deep thawing snowpack with bags twice as heavy. That again, is not my favourite thing. However, the deep satisfaction of The Steeple
coursing through my body and an unforced grin, the walkout was easy. Some cold broccoli, a tin of mackerel and
some oat cakes was a welcome dinner back at the car park.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7oIFhB91yuBe3iVe0mi_PTsdDnAjmPQaetq2_tfA-gaevQZGrplYi-Axe_OJ9jRS58lY6aViFmZRFame2dO4O4OYujsw81OdWz1g4PK_ZUF4Zz_AYk2LHYpXypRTMko2LKQE409_zTEGl/s1600/P1000218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7oIFhB91yuBe3iVe0mi_PTsdDnAjmPQaetq2_tfA-gaevQZGrplYi-Axe_OJ9jRS58lY6aViFmZRFame2dO4O4OYujsw81OdWz1g4PK_ZUF4Zz_AYk2LHYpXypRTMko2LKQE409_zTEGl/s320/P1000218.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on the final top wall pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
I cant quite remember the weather pattern but I think it thawed
for a few days, then a re freeze with high pressure saw the ice begin build and
pump out from everywhere. Nick Bullock
and I had arranged to go out. Going to
Ben Nevis on a stellar forecast was neither of our ideas of fun. We took the risk and wondered about the icy
routes on Giants Wall on Beinn Bhan.
Neither of us had climbed the outrageous line of Gully of the Gods
VI,6. Hoping that would hold the ice we
chanced it. I must admit, walking in, I
had my reservations. But, it was such a
gorgeous day and we both agreed even taking the bag for a walk and looking at
stuff was going to be satisfactory.
Giants Wall looked lean and my heart sank a little. But peeking into Gully of the Gods, it was
sufficiently smeared in ice. Boom! This route is by far one of the best winter
climbs I have done. 3D fun is the best
way to describe it. We were on top by 12.50pm.
With the sun splitting the sky and not a breath of wind, we just hung
around lapping it up. Cheating really,
it was too easy. The idea of doing a
second route was quickly put in the bin.
How often do you get to sit about in the warm sun in winter after a
route? It was as opposite to hard mixed
climbing as you can get. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbvI2z_hugn-ACU24EaPV4_66mhV8TtmNp4B-JiKFQMyFfTdOx_yTb-q7Xmw_dHHXsaghqVa8-p9CEczcvuKBndqSN4szgtxWa0NecHeTZ50Hx1kzLwh9CbeqA7arTDQrJ0zwP9ysT7xbY/s1600/P1000220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="1600" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbvI2z_hugn-ACU24EaPV4_66mhV8TtmNp4B-JiKFQMyFfTdOx_yTb-q7Xmw_dHHXsaghqVa8-p9CEczcvuKBndqSN4szgtxWa0NecHeTZ50Hx1kzLwh9CbeqA7arTDQrJ0zwP9ysT7xbY/s320/P1000220.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beinn Bhan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9nAw7hnwZOzkW00qMpuXK0D7UcLFwLbpcdeViMIq4lyXRY-1I0KuRPL0GbeI3WTdFAuI08BNMM_pLrguD4UmUbmQbav4m872qmoRsQXZzJE8JxOf2w8YjIZ-2qYZ2bK6dkm9Adx-nClFr/s1600/P1000237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9nAw7hnwZOzkW00qMpuXK0D7UcLFwLbpcdeViMIq4lyXRY-1I0KuRPL0GbeI3WTdFAuI08BNMM_pLrguD4UmUbmQbav4m872qmoRsQXZzJE8JxOf2w8YjIZ-2qYZ2bK6dkm9Adx-nClFr/s320/P1000237.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick on pitch 1 of Gully of the Gods</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUO9POzSJ0_u3NQ7DDSBbm53zRJ3QBiWAdDPNxS02sZjwTQPzD194rhR27IgQJXRc6ul_sNz6UJJbFe7naNEXrvQmy_9h5ipQjRr6E-9rdWpLr-58Utwu028Prs4pVf4U1Q-JzkBmoR2fG/s1600/P1090768.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUO9POzSJ0_u3NQ7DDSBbm53zRJ3QBiWAdDPNxS02sZjwTQPzD194rhR27IgQJXRc6ul_sNz6UJJbFe7naNEXrvQmy_9h5ipQjRr6E-9rdWpLr-58Utwu028Prs4pVf4U1Q-JzkBmoR2fG/s320/P1090768.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the 3D pitch 2 (Photo: Nick Bullock)</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We agreed that Der Risenwand VII,6 looked icy enough so
stashed the kit. The following day we
walked in with light bags and trainers over the frozen bog. A novelty for this wall. My previous visits have always been wallowing
around in deep snow, in the dark falling into bogs, sliding on wet
vegetation. The usual grinding approach
in the North West. We roped up for the
first 3 pitchs then just soloed along the terrace and up the ramp until a
narrowing that neither of us fancied without a rope. The original line makes an airy step left at
the top of the ramp. Nick reached a
belay just before the step. As I
approached he was like ‘Oh, look at that over hanging ice above you
Murdoch. That looks rather good and
tasty doesn’t it?’ I looked up, and
thought, for fuck sake! But, it did look
rather attractive. However, it did look
like you had to utilise a wedged block which looked rather too exciting for
me. Anyway, away I went. A steep strenuous mixed traverse right gained
the ice, followed by some cruddy ice, it wasn’t a place to fall. But thankfully I didn’t. Nick followed then did what he is good at and
just ploughed on doing one very long dynamic pitch to the top dragging me up
behind. Another, fine day. Great company and good chat putting the world
to right, it has to be my best weekend of the winter!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm9H96FShzbn3_4AnsJzhRXzxtjG4r9u6B-9PeOHBZ9O8hzlhRFQkYxmLT69xuImDCSlDfNxE3R1J0nTnSMztQZBr67TZZ2Tfx4LyVTiELze8CLTe371pQZhGRRxKoSMWk82kN-6IR8pbf/s1600/P1000251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm9H96FShzbn3_4AnsJzhRXzxtjG4r9u6B-9PeOHBZ9O8hzlhRFQkYxmLT69xuImDCSlDfNxE3R1J0nTnSMztQZBr67TZZ2Tfx4LyVTiELze8CLTe371pQZhGRRxKoSMWk82kN-6IR8pbf/s320/P1000251.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The magnificent Giants wall of Corie Nan Fhamhair</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick on pitch 1 of Der Risenwand</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5RO8j3dlFAfH7yiJfiMP5pn3Kfmox3z73EX2joWBrG3oe5FDE-4btqEkQJwMPRFBtwn5oSNQHR556JEEg03zl5RFjg8uv51YEcJO2wqM8ObJB4ROnNbCSnww2qZdiaPNYrK4cZ-PjAqc/s1600/P1090826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl5RO8j3dlFAfH7yiJfiMP5pn3Kfmox3z73EX2joWBrG3oe5FDE-4btqEkQJwMPRFBtwn5oSNQHR556JEEg03zl5RFjg8uv51YEcJO2wqM8ObJB4ROnNbCSnww2qZdiaPNYrK4cZ-PjAqc/s320/P1090826.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up at the wrong moment. (Photo: Nick Bullock)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAWTWOF1BmTeYubwJoFri7pSLzECOoUVdR9Y8kzM5eIRXg7x5QVXDnTgnycGNoL-bMnzxnXNgl-AfAZ6vwHPAP09VhZnccTEJcYxL3wEHCeJ-IIPVmkRbfR-NqVhTIGv5dF53qf3iY6pgF/s1600/P1000275.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAWTWOF1BmTeYubwJoFri7pSLzECOoUVdR9Y8kzM5eIRXg7x5QVXDnTgnycGNoL-bMnzxnXNgl-AfAZ6vwHPAP09VhZnccTEJcYxL3wEHCeJ-IIPVmkRbfR-NqVhTIGv5dF53qf3iY6pgF/s320/P1000275.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick on the traverse on pitch 3</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzHgXn-3XyOzeNbrtS4AAHOhFEj7He-k5eoxHOokPCXbKTij0ustnDsRHBoYp5qtz32zzh98yQ0L2qDgMWE7uybBeD0u50M6oubh5S7mhIAUsnO_diTTLtOAZYbrHuHH4EB0Ea___Y1xYl/s1600/P1090860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzHgXn-3XyOzeNbrtS4AAHOhFEj7He-k5eoxHOokPCXbKTij0ustnDsRHBoYp5qtz32zzh98yQ0L2qDgMWE7uybBeD0u50M6oubh5S7mhIAUsnO_diTTLtOAZYbrHuHH4EB0Ea___Y1xYl/s320/P1090860.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following pitch 3 (Photo:Nick Bullock)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNaEx3pJKS064DXmgWUbnShgU_Np685B00KQJmgkX_mp9VYlSZP-NV678Vi-BsHLkXtofZjNjx6neFt_8Fwv8cm8fz6oCYc4UtsbMn0dkaaTCh5XiCUunEWZde7zX019247c2leX5Qe6sG/s1600/P1000283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNaEx3pJKS064DXmgWUbnShgU_Np685B00KQJmgkX_mp9VYlSZP-NV678Vi-BsHLkXtofZjNjx6neFt_8Fwv8cm8fz6oCYc4UtsbMn0dkaaTCh5XiCUunEWZde7zX019247c2leX5Qe6sG/s320/P1000283.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick on the middle terrace.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3rruaRRbxjjFecQx5n515MiI2IKECWLfjXQVNMrqjoKgnF6UHtMl4bq5obcv48u8DXXhkF9UXd6lehEZt3PIBZfcVRddK0Kbhq0PjUaISmmRKU_l6w8UJEshqfCOTQeRjgZuYlvdc4Nst/s1600/P1090939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3rruaRRbxjjFecQx5n515MiI2IKECWLfjXQVNMrqjoKgnF6UHtMl4bq5obcv48u8DXXhkF9UXd6lehEZt3PIBZfcVRddK0Kbhq0PjUaISmmRKU_l6w8UJEshqfCOTQeRjgZuYlvdc4Nst/s320/P1090939.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following the ramp (Photo: Nick Bullock)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcaHlG28AV59KdTw1k72cHUbRvGN8xSMpynsm7pCGVl7hOY3lIIcGIPng2MDxJ6ffw2M1TLWAuR3ZIskal-_xf4HsoQjlWE6jhKIT5b_eAPoxdWzl5Y0l9N6gd97lOoEni9HUJFSsKptM3/s1600/P1090983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcaHlG28AV59KdTw1k72cHUbRvGN8xSMpynsm7pCGVl7hOY3lIIcGIPng2MDxJ6ffw2M1TLWAuR3ZIskal-_xf4HsoQjlWE6jhKIT5b_eAPoxdWzl5Y0l9N6gd97lOoEni9HUJFSsKptM3/s320/P1090983.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the new Icicle variation finish (Photo: Nick Bullock)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgZbeOdZzZId6c3gCV36MTqPh5UM-2vkOo26LOlWWItESFUo3P-ub9fmBEpNLE84bbjjXWeJeko_WCrJoYlIHi-pDi354CgM94ew51wo-n2IWBCIJH8k_awCi4k1M_fcTDThy6KW7hR1S/s1600/P1000293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgZbeOdZzZId6c3gCV36MTqPh5UM-2vkOo26LOlWWItESFUo3P-ub9fmBEpNLE84bbjjXWeJeko_WCrJoYlIHi-pDi354CgM94ew51wo-n2IWBCIJH8k_awCi4k1M_fcTDThy6KW7hR1S/s320/P1000293.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick</td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-70500427707255047452018-02-16T02:51:00.000-08:002018-02-16T02:51:01.818-08:00Winter is here<div class="MsoNormal">
Well, it is fair to say, that this winter is panning out to
be quite good. In saying that, last
winter was not bad. The weather was
brilliant, there was just no snow and so you had to shift your focus and go
with the conditions. Bouldering. This year, I must admit I have only had one
days bouldering and have concluded that my energy is better spent hooking my
way up frozen cliffs. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzRxaIVw9yJQTclilykrgowxMqhphvBj7SyJ_FEWQscUDwmhtDZnshB9LIIDkE5ry4XmhJrxkJQr3hYxJWQKYfhdAtOLYh1DN_A2B0jM10cDWw203VMirxurXXrvZ9RBOLmxkijT55bse/s1600/26972742149_c5f87824a5_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="1600" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibzRxaIVw9yJQTclilykrgowxMqhphvBj7SyJ_FEWQscUDwmhtDZnshB9LIIDkE5ry4XmhJrxkJQr3hYxJWQKYfhdAtOLYh1DN_A2B0jM10cDWw203VMirxurXXrvZ9RBOLmxkijT55bse/s320/26972742149_c5f87824a5_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ben on 30th November 2017.. my 31st Birthday.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZgl8kUutgK_5K0khEpZkWA5fi9ITGu53jJqvWUY0BX1dm3LL0ht8NnidE9Sj3n9zQPs3BkCHk4HjMtVZtHvoJFmOnAf0Yv7Jc6qwHsC-Qgp_li0UHjuhSXBsVs80Dcqdx-VZzCzGhW3YB/s1600/24763454558_be74f93f76_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZgl8kUutgK_5K0khEpZkWA5fi9ITGu53jJqvWUY0BX1dm3LL0ht8NnidE9Sj3n9zQPs3BkCHk4HjMtVZtHvoJFmOnAf0Yv7Jc6qwHsC-Qgp_li0UHjuhSXBsVs80Dcqdx-VZzCzGhW3YB/s320/24763454558_be74f93f76_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy loving crap weather on 'Pot of Gold'. A shock to the system after being in the desert.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
This season, I have spent a few days in Glencoe. I guess this is a happy middle ground between
myself and Iain Small who I have been out climbing with regularly. At the same time The Coe is not shit so,
that’s handy. On a nice weekend before
Christmas saw us both standing in Stob Corie Nan Lochan. For me, I had only done 2 routes there, so I
had full pick of the corie. Iain on the
other hand only has 2 or 3 desperate routes to do before the crag is
ticked. Opting for ‘Satyr’ IX,9/10?, I nominated
Iain for the first pitch. Neither of us
new anything about this route apart from the first pitch was bold and there was
some history about Andy Nelson and Donald king going back 2 or 3 times to
complete it. Despite knowing that tiny
bit of knowledge, the alarm bells never rang.
They must have been faulty that day… </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix-syKkXZzHqETL_T9FYmYLqQGZbuSt2REaREKkC07y7Lek43OqJ_N9x6edd292msRy2mnWue6Q2gIu7sS6ATFBY1qMl9PQSGx07n3yRzUkReYAUPubh5yMC09wEU8HIwM8XVXia6QrDLC/s1600/39104323941_5f5a076613_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix-syKkXZzHqETL_T9FYmYLqQGZbuSt2REaREKkC07y7Lek43OqJ_N9x6edd292msRy2mnWue6Q2gIu7sS6ATFBY1qMl9PQSGx07n3yRzUkReYAUPubh5yMC09wEU8HIwM8XVXia6QrDLC/s320/39104323941_5f5a076613_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 1 of 'Satyr'</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyway, Iain set off up pitch one. Bold start, its handy to know Iain likes (?)
that stuff. Maybe not, but I think he
does. A good hex was reached then steady
away with another hard few moves up a compact wall, slopey ledge. Not my favourite winter ground, but an
excellent pitch. I quickly wallowed my
way up the easier middle pitch. Then
there was the top. We new nothing apart
from the summer description. Up the wide
chimney crack (another favourite feature of mine) then a mantelshelf move. Off I went…. I got up the crack. Looking left I saw the lovely top pitch of
Central Grooves. Oh how appealing it
looked. However, I was bound for this
slabby wall above guarded by this horrendous mantel move. A thin crack on my left had an insitu DMM
Terrier. I managed to back this up with
a good rock 2 and a crappy size 1 peanut.
Up and down, I realised, this was not quite a straight forward as I
hoped. Hmm, Central Grooves out left
looked even more appealing. More
faffing, I committed and the inevitable, I fell off. Giving Iain the option of me bailing left or
passing him the lead I prayed he would say just go left. No. He
wanted to give it a shot. Bugger. Of course its dark… So down I came. Iain grovelled his way up the crack
regretting his decision. I was glad to
see he gave the mantel a token look and said ‘fuck that’ and did the decent
thing and bail left into the groove.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
A few days later, I did my re search on Satyr and
realised that the top pitch was problematic on the first ascent. Both Andy and Donald were on the phone giving
me their stories. Then when out with
Nick Bullock a few weeks ago, he mentioned that that pitch never went smoothly
on their ascent. The moral of the story,
Andy and Donald are winter weapons…. Which we already know. But this re enforced that knowledge. Be careful if repeating their routes.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs2I6ESU5RHdn5UAJqlW2EcNbS2GUJNYds1t0rmlxbYcOnZEnZgzp0Pu0ciJspuJTT8Cq2xhpyPbltMn6e77HOb0QYn5uhbAzGsRquAekTHz0aSAalWGPUjPHH0IowX1Opri8l0HSZo6R_/s1600/38730573685_4393b89b85_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs2I6ESU5RHdn5UAJqlW2EcNbS2GUJNYds1t0rmlxbYcOnZEnZgzp0Pu0ciJspuJTT8Cq2xhpyPbltMn6e77HOb0QYn5uhbAzGsRquAekTHz0aSAalWGPUjPHH0IowX1Opri8l0HSZo6R_/s320/38730573685_4393b89b85_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Summit Buttress</div>
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The following day, The Duel IX,9 was on the cards. However, I’m sure most of you who follow
Facebook and <a href="http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=6629">Simon Richardsons blog</a> will be aware that I am useless and I ended
up climbing a very long and taxing pitch of En Garde. Here is my account which I submitted to
Simon. Please visit his blog as he of
course has added in some interesting and important history.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwECJLytbPEp1m_Pezzcb4GrVFrsgnavXVQWpiZCW5fZFlgKqPT553Be2oxyeDAA2W5b3M8w2rnH1X0LhMd4WtHkersdsKNrAxybwff0SWSoj0TM1IK0XQVKLRR9xv4CrNOO6pSEDZIZmv/s1600/P1050828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwECJLytbPEp1m_Pezzcb4GrVFrsgnavXVQWpiZCW5fZFlgKqPT553Be2oxyeDAA2W5b3M8w2rnH1X0LhMd4WtHkersdsKNrAxybwff0SWSoj0TM1IK0XQVKLRR9xv4CrNOO6pSEDZIZmv/s320/P1050828.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on 'The Wall Pitch' (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;">“</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Iain led the introductory pitch to below 'The Wall'
pitch of 'The Duel'. Then I led 'The Wall' pitch of the duel, crossing
the overlap and into the groove. From there I just followed my nose,
totally unaware that 'The Duel' traversed out right. There was an old peg
on the left wall which had seen better day so I backed that up with a cam and
just assumed the route continued up the obvious line above! Tricky, thin
committing moves above the peg gained a belay ledge. I was aware that
this was meant to be a long pitch of 40m...Iain shouted up that I had only
done 30m or there abouts so I just continued up the corner. This was
pretty steep with only a crappy peg and cam to protect it so it felt rather
exciting for me. Above this, you reach a turfy ramp and can belay below the
overhanging chimney (again this all fitted in with my thoughts we were on 'The
Duel'). Iain followed and led the chimney. We had taken a big cam
especially for this. However despite the steep chimney being strenuous it
was positive placements.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTu2e4TAYLyuQYTglvuzpyjaLLS8CYY2t4Feoj67w1L7PLscVbENyr7y7Oipc2YN_il9Gzy5ClOGf1utgsEmeUzcg57JwoJCmk9CN86LPr0_UExM3wHhR7e45cPX1Z_WjCEZvbztMakOX/s1600/En+grade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTu2e4TAYLyuQYTglvuzpyjaLLS8CYY2t4Feoj67w1L7PLscVbENyr7y7Oipc2YN_il9Gzy5ClOGf1utgsEmeUzcg57JwoJCmk9CN86LPr0_UExM3wHhR7e45cPX1Z_WjCEZvbztMakOX/s320/En+grade.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red line is En Garde, Green is The Duel</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Chatting
with Cubby the next day then reading the route description for 'The Duel' in
then Cicerone guide, the doubts began to creep into my mind in what we had
actually climbed. I mentioned this to Iain and with the help of a photo
from James Richardson of us on the route, it became clear we were on the higher
ramp of ‘En Garde’. Grade wise, we both thought it was IX,9. Above
that peg, is still pretty sustained climbing with not an abundance of
gear. But i'm sure one of these modern dry toolers will have it down at
VII 8 soon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt;">In terms
of a description, it basically follows the summer description in the
guide. However the pitch 2, I belayed on a big ledge below the
overhanging chimney. (maybe 45m).”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWDNxttAcEL6swLphO8eULYYiCW2nxEWWRLvdMuidsDMJ9DpGoesxjvDM4Ymqi2zvuFF47_IO7l1R-_xIVg0Nxzz1L6Go0ib7X8Rgzdx1ucWWPxM8gfcLmHJmXeqgcnWMIbTJfQNqY1XX/s1600/27326999149_3e3659dbfd_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWDNxttAcEL6swLphO8eULYYiCW2nxEWWRLvdMuidsDMJ9DpGoesxjvDM4Ymqi2zvuFF47_IO7l1R-_xIVg0Nxzz1L6Go0ib7X8Rgzdx1ucWWPxM8gfcLmHJmXeqgcnWMIbTJfQNqY1XX/s320/27326999149_3e3659dbfd_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on the top pitch of En Garde</td></tr>
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I am pleased to see it has had a second ascent from Nick
Bullock and Tim Neil (Nick has a very funny account of his day on his <a href="http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2018/02/08/modern-scottish-winter-climbing-fables-1-bright-red-trousers/">blog</a>. They both seemed
to enjoy it which was good. Again, I
can’t re enforce the fact, Cubby, what a beast.
Very impressive climbing even by today's standards.</div>
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Next came a warm Christmas then a snowy New Year. This saw Iain and myself walking around the Cairngorms. Despite having done a few
hard routes this year it’s good to know that the hardest I have pulled on tools
was the VI’s in Lochan! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_WLu9ylBMLu_ege6QdPy70LWnXBD2JxMfZC9ywVURFc1tt7dfMUYsbs9jGtRiI1GzESgBotr1IbFLWu5paR1j7Z3ASn4HEaSbadmtr96HcC4IRYuXHs__aYUW7ToL09omk17LBklNGT1/s1600/24510744187_b804e1018e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_WLu9ylBMLu_ege6QdPy70LWnXBD2JxMfZC9ywVURFc1tt7dfMUYsbs9jGtRiI1GzESgBotr1IbFLWu5paR1j7Z3ASn4HEaSbadmtr96HcC4IRYuXHs__aYUW7ToL09omk17LBklNGT1/s320/24510744187_b804e1018e_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on 'The crack'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVofsWy2oiE9ht_X1iDPD6NzHuidWpWOzb7qVh8zKDdmnpbV6ipdNEE_-waZsgLmH5DDS1jiKN1F1k6m5C1e_QCuvkbxWqIDdrh-LVjFYOpByVxkk8hkTnDyr5rZyuMfXBLuM3SxSF_cFv/s1600/38851073224_e0814fc526_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVofsWy2oiE9ht_X1iDPD6NzHuidWpWOzb7qVh8zKDdmnpbV6ipdNEE_-waZsgLmH5DDS1jiKN1F1k6m5C1e_QCuvkbxWqIDdrh-LVjFYOpByVxkk8hkTnDyr5rZyuMfXBLuM3SxSF_cFv/s320/38851073224_e0814fc526_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Liathach, a great day out.</td></tr>
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Bullock arrived in Scotland at the start of January. Last
time we climbed together was on The Ben in 2013 when the ice was good. Several year’s worth of story exchange passed
the brutal walk up in to Stob Corie Nan Lochan.
Neither of us had done Unicorn VIII,8 so this fitted the bill for us. I had always believed that the first pitch
was for your mate. But knowing that I
find seconding in winter the living end and basically can't, ask any of my
partners, I felt better suited to at least lead the awkward flare. Weird psychology I know! At least that way it would be marginally more
pleasurable. I had built this initial
pitch up to be hell on earth, but in actual fact, I thought it was fine. Then I was a bit greedy and took more than my
fair share of pitch 2, leaving Nick the top part of the corner. I couldn’t resist, the climbing is first
class. However, I paid for my cheeky
behaviour when placing my tool literally in the top of the crag on the 4<sup>th</sup>
pitch. My other tool ripped which saw me
lob. Bugger. I sent Nick up to finish the job. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgDxhZWtZUow2_Goxk3UdnjES8KDfQVisEpQinQlAmcCaUXXsJRubJyj3S0uCJFT2NJwG4sCEY7HUJ0HT1MRuqCx17tgUGdwOBZenHc1MZoSn_5tZln4Zj_0ZrRaTxFiQb12IXrbDbbFWt/s1600/P1090074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgDxhZWtZUow2_Goxk3UdnjES8KDfQVisEpQinQlAmcCaUXXsJRubJyj3S0uCJFT2NJwG4sCEY7HUJ0HT1MRuqCx17tgUGdwOBZenHc1MZoSn_5tZln4Zj_0ZrRaTxFiQb12IXrbDbbFWt/s320/P1090074.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 1 of Unicorn. (Photo: Nick Bullock)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3mh6bC5I6V0LmR2fOo1bWUz6IkViUoJV9miIinDipAfS6941e3KPIwL3E2WHy2T4t4RlUIrdap0-6L60LEQMdeR5SDnUF2utuLf7L6c8uvzsSfHDEpIAhxBD_0UQteg9uiV2un3-OKYzD/s1600/27850234479_bed8661a90_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3mh6bC5I6V0LmR2fOo1bWUz6IkViUoJV9miIinDipAfS6941e3KPIwL3E2WHy2T4t4RlUIrdap0-6L60LEQMdeR5SDnUF2utuLf7L6c8uvzsSfHDEpIAhxBD_0UQteg9uiV2un3-OKYzD/s320/27850234479_bed8661a90_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick following pitch 1 of Unicorn</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfINLWMgKhlt76jtN2HabxdGhxzGdXKZcC0DDhQ65kq81gxm_Mj_YvPXCxTN0826zaLUJ75oe08_xCWHAhaepmlsuUFpznQOYt_m__iJ1fIHtDzO7yy_fi2bILXZU_d5WsfxXZPJK7NCi/s1600/24759272407_7cd94eaf84_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcfINLWMgKhlt76jtN2HabxdGhxzGdXKZcC0DDhQ65kq81gxm_Mj_YvPXCxTN0826zaLUJ75oe08_xCWHAhaepmlsuUFpznQOYt_m__iJ1fIHtDzO7yy_fi2bILXZU_d5WsfxXZPJK7NCi/s320/24759272407_7cd94eaf84_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nick on pitch 2 of Unicorn</td></tr>
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Glencoe provided another happy medium for Iain and myself
during the very snowy weekend of the 20<sup>th</sup> January. He of course has a black book full of new
route options so making best use of the copious amounts of fresh snow saw us on
the very low E Buttress in Glencoe.
Starting up the corner pitch of the summer E1, Trapeze, we broke off
left up some rather interesting and rather shattered winter ground. He is yet to write an account for Simon, but
I’ll leave you with a few photos. All in
all a new VIII,8.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMFUld9FZEleutGLeJCzLCgiFRvTTq6IB8_xFauxejrMRe9aDysLOYWeZw7DIAcXHTaBhquGeq2YKvoAFA8zkppjHSk4opF35cz66nDK_3F6bfECFGPssUT9sZlkrfGke-ps_NnHau6mD/s1600/P1000119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlMFUld9FZEleutGLeJCzLCgiFRvTTq6IB8_xFauxejrMRe9aDysLOYWeZw7DIAcXHTaBhquGeq2YKvoAFA8zkppjHSk4opF35cz66nDK_3F6bfECFGPssUT9sZlkrfGke-ps_NnHau6mD/s320/P1000119.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain following pitch 3 of our new route.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSa7bePK-CpR40Dk8OPd3ruQBnR8zU0Pe5OTV2Ox7cEx0IYOPFb0OQN2Xmdm6v3xHAuFvRc9cjD13P5pDw3kLjN2CxeNYFkZuhCPfRcrJqXKhPu9hMDaipqgsGIfP00dSG9oWZxEgtFI5D/s1600/P1000133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSa7bePK-CpR40Dk8OPd3ruQBnR8zU0Pe5OTV2Ox7cEx0IYOPFb0OQN2Xmdm6v3xHAuFvRc9cjD13P5pDw3kLjN2CxeNYFkZuhCPfRcrJqXKhPu9hMDaipqgsGIfP00dSG9oWZxEgtFI5D/s320/P1000133.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on a tricky traverse on pitch 4.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmmO7K1_Jx0vy64BtfLPUeDIUAOjpHZ7QAzWLo9NWW9nw9bMwBBA88axYHSYjO3dLbqTvWT9SWOL_40TAAXlDw-K7wpM07zBw11aeyk1xlm03pJuRz1QLrabMrK_rCf5W7ebIhfKTShy3R/s1600/P1050864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmmO7K1_Jx0vy64BtfLPUeDIUAOjpHZ7QAzWLo9NWW9nw9bMwBBA88axYHSYjO3dLbqTvWT9SWOL_40TAAXlDw-K7wpM07zBw11aeyk1xlm03pJuRz1QLrabMrK_rCf5W7ebIhfKTShy3R/s320/P1050864.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the final pitch. Loose and rattly. (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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Another new line on the buttress left of Italian climb saw
us floundering around in the dark.
Another one of these ‘Short Big days’.
A good lead from Iain on the initial pitch. Straight off the deck he was pulling hard
going over a steep overlap trying to gain a steep icy groove. Iced cracks, very strenuous position with a
body breaking landing, hats off to him for digging the gear placements out. It was a joy to follow. Questing off up left, I felt rather intimidated. New routing in on new ground can be
worrying. Iain pointed me in the
direction of these big roofs. Thankfully
these big roofs were well fractured so were very accommodating for an
intimidated Murdoch. Grade wise, VIII,9 or IX,8... Not sure. Take your pick.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7e-PS6ZHiY5oD-bkQxO4C3ZOUzGvnFHDWF2C5R3g24ZTVCpn-kuTYyjVqYP9J-M0ToDlO0FeV9WcgDvJ1UBYl4jPtmYENo5-ztGCtxuLtsR7blwJ3rwrzOJnt7Z267d8jDuxcIGmS-3NR/s1600/P1000142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7e-PS6ZHiY5oD-bkQxO4C3ZOUzGvnFHDWF2C5R3g24ZTVCpn-kuTYyjVqYP9J-M0ToDlO0FeV9WcgDvJ1UBYl4jPtmYENo5-ztGCtxuLtsR7blwJ3rwrzOJnt7Z267d8jDuxcIGmS-3NR/s320/P1000142.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 1 of the new line.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKkbD9IxfsfPKoytxZkwZWmAKu0ebUrDqhLbVUjrK_cjPJExRzNjDyv-esCiU9GUB84lWGrcbqHcWw_a_sAyC949JD_ysPk6v38f_kzvJuDrz0FAYANPRU1XjNCJhyphenhyphengLM_kULQTB_7yqK/s1600/P1050892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKkbD9IxfsfPKoytxZkwZWmAKu0ebUrDqhLbVUjrK_cjPJExRzNjDyv-esCiU9GUB84lWGrcbqHcWw_a_sAyC949JD_ysPk6v38f_kzvJuDrz0FAYANPRU1XjNCJhyphenhyphengLM_kULQTB_7yqK/s320/P1050892.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 2 (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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‘The Crack’ VIII,8 on Ben Nevis.
Now, there’s a route I was sort of aware about, but not really. I guess it’s not on many peoples radar. It’s ‘round the corner’ on Ben Nevis. No crowds there and low on the hill so rarely in acceptable condition. With all this snow and persistently cold
temperatures it was a good choice.
Walking up the base of it, it winks at you, teasing you inside. When I was in the states last year, I managed
to avoid offwidths. Ha ha, I
thought. Well, it was payback time for
that cheeky manoeuvre. I was inside this
thing. Floundering around, gear way
below, there were certainly naughty comments coming from my mouth. Something about how 'I hate winter climbing' and 'this is a complete waste of time' and 'I should have gone for a walk instead…' the list goes on. Anyway, again not
knowing anything I grovelled up the first part to a welcome rest. Then quested off up the continuation. Suddenly you’re on the outside but the crack
is too baggy for the tools. It’s
bulging. What the Fuck?! An old peg below my feet, I was feeling
rather taxed again. Thankfully I managed
to through a hex in and batter it with my tool.
At least that was something, but then it was in the way! Anyway, it took me some time to psyche myself
up and deal with these pumpy strenuous moves to reach some thank god chalk
stones. Flipping hec. Good job Simon Richardson and Chris Cartright. Iain dealt with the next off width above. I think on the first ascent, they went right
but we stayed in the crack as we were enjoying it that much. Easy ground was reach, thank god.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on the awkward initial pitch of 'The Crack'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgixMp54MDUqh-X92kgjjuv1zxOToKP6opYQTfBtNJioWGQBbD3OxdwT7eHeUxPwip6-GfdmXhhDLkA-dhlG4qAj99lFeyJ9Mq2JuuFQ3xjPuvLQ8CXnz1tbeew-woDqm35_XyEC4n0fbLN/s1600/the+crack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="854" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgixMp54MDUqh-X92kgjjuv1zxOToKP6opYQTfBtNJioWGQBbD3OxdwT7eHeUxPwip6-GfdmXhhDLkA-dhlG4qAj99lFeyJ9Mq2JuuFQ3xjPuvLQ8CXnz1tbeew-woDqm35_XyEC4n0fbLN/s320/the+crack.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 2 of 'The Crack' (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeiE6N5lkYeFUg0GmFJbS2fxga7mpW3P4bFrrvqhE1pOMfOQQ_j-a-JfuLSYsJPyz2EfcbYHc2SktH6dZyAbVo7ueVbe-FR7ZlawKBpY-NUYujCHPkHR4thbRJfqNAbaCxIkSIgc_FKfg5/s1600/the+crack+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeiE6N5lkYeFUg0GmFJbS2fxga7mpW3P4bFrrvqhE1pOMfOQQ_j-a-JfuLSYsJPyz2EfcbYHc2SktH6dZyAbVo7ueVbe-FR7ZlawKBpY-NUYujCHPkHR4thbRJfqNAbaCxIkSIgc_FKfg5/s320/the+crack+2.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...it was more like this... grovelling.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0I7sBlKj07LLzjMMjJjkwH5FN54gX4G_MnHPCy_G8PYYp2fXFHOnBnOUxRieD-kVmW00jUglqYYjN_Jn0CCi0tYbW18HipXjsWTkfFTUEpvcZgy3FPzzpkCo9gj2xzUuoO4LAZ7X6JzfB/s1600/the+crack+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="160" data-original-width="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0I7sBlKj07LLzjMMjJjkwH5FN54gX4G_MnHPCy_G8PYYp2fXFHOnBnOUxRieD-kVmW00jUglqYYjN_Jn0CCi0tYbW18HipXjsWTkfFTUEpvcZgy3FPzzpkCo9gj2xzUuoO4LAZ7X6JzfB/s1600/the+crack+3.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 3 of 'The Crack'</td></tr>
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Centurion VIII,8, now there’s a route… John Orr and i do like a lengthy day out, but that deserves its own
write up.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBPIXyD8GBbBlH9ntyaGo0bnYRfwAF5iHABaqhxjuRuLtf_A7wSEosX-tfW_2fU9GQMgFfyhgw94aYsMhXQktpKE9IPms6Y-9-b6_FYqE_0S5567-umutmFKxZTQLggW9tpBmtxaRVYLz/s1600/27763737679_0a15775e7f_o+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBPIXyD8GBbBlH9ntyaGo0bnYRfwAF5iHABaqhxjuRuLtf_A7wSEosX-tfW_2fU9GQMgFfyhgw94aYsMhXQktpKE9IPms6Y-9-b6_FYqE_0S5567-umutmFKxZTQLggW9tpBmtxaRVYLz/s320/27763737679_0a15775e7f_o+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter Herd on Vapour Trail.... Torridon will need to wait to March :-(</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-48157546551075808032017-12-09T02:30:00.002-08:002017-12-09T02:39:18.746-08:00Moonlight Buttress<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWMt5hwM9ga_CXDAvD8U-4WWfBrfY53vgcN951D6Z9aHUAYrd5LiFINK3S1Hj43PBOEVT8o9UT79KeEuaUizoQFxfwvNDhX5gMLkRc1YXj6YNttgR3Zvaw1dR7uFoGYshEKnnuv55lbZN/s1600/4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKWMt5hwM9ga_CXDAvD8U-4WWfBrfY53vgcN951D6Z9aHUAYrd5LiFINK3S1Hj43PBOEVT8o9UT79KeEuaUizoQFxfwvNDhX5gMLkRc1YXj6YNttgR3Zvaw1dR7uFoGYshEKnnuv55lbZN/s320/4.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">One of many crags at </span>Indian Creek. </td></tr>
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Day 1 in Indian Creek. Having just warmed up on the classic ‘Dr Karl’ 5.10, I glanced at the route next door. It was graded 5.11. Looked piss. "Aye, I’ll just give this a burn Pete. See where we are at". </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3S2jJXIfoZhprNlGOVT0mUrEQKwrxSNMC3y3fv6FWHXoazT62xnpfrlwOQFfQkTjnJu91a43RkZhUiLx5GDocDdv7Qzxe3L6Cilek1YCt4xlIrchyphenhypheneExkwdzKMdorV_kvB_KPl675H0D/s1600/P1040072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-3S2jJXIfoZhprNlGOVT0mUrEQKwrxSNMC3y3fv6FWHXoazT62xnpfrlwOQFfQkTjnJu91a43RkZhUiLx5GDocDdv7Qzxe3L6Cilek1YCt4xlIrchyphenhypheneExkwdzKMdorV_kvB_KPl675H0D/s320/P1040072.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete on Dr Karl</td></tr>
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I couldn’t get off the ground. This stellar crack was guarded by this body width off width, about 15ft high. I had my new big green size 6 camalot in. It was in the way. I kept re positioning it. Then I was laybacking up the thing, then slumping onto the cam. Meanwhile Pete is buried in my big duvet jacket pissing himself with laughter. Upping and downing, jamming and laybacking, every shot was just one more go. Eventually I turned the simple grade converted E2 offwidth into a desperate E8 layback and I gained the hand crack. Easy, I’ll just nip on up. 3 meters higher I was burnt. Aiding on red cams (which I later found out was a desperate crack size for me) I eventually I reached the wider crack above of gold cams (later which I found were piss but satisfying to climb). Then a roof was reached. I had no cams left despite taking the guidebook recommenced number. There was a variation finger crack out left. It wasn’t so much the finger crack was appealing, more the fact the chains were at 30m rather than the 40m hand crack above me. I made a little belay and lowered a loop of rope to haul the small cams up. Aiding out, I managed to get established. 5.12, the same grade as Moonlight Buttress, I’ll just give it a cheeky go. Finger crack, that might be more my style. Eh no! More aiding took me to a widening in the crack. A blue cam in then the chains. Thank god. Annoyingly the blue cam was over cammed. Totally jammed. Day one, we cant loose a big blue. Dave Cowan gave me some advice, pour water over the cam and work it out. Essentially you are softening the rock. After a painfully long time the cam came out. This whole process from tying on, then me reaching the ground must have taken around 2hrs. Oooops. Well that was Moonlight Buttress off the list. I walked away from the crag that evening with my tail between my legs. For months I had been talking all about Moonlight Buttress. Basically I had built it into my head that it was ‘ok’. But this first day just shut me down. Ok, I was choked with the cold, sleep deprived and jet lagged, but even still, that was a comedy for anyone watching. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9y-R0QkMoYxMUiPn51wAQJqeNQB-bjf_mxiM_Ko5IH9hde4BRwMO8HU2l-Le0pZo30o0YSpXrXn-yep1GYHUGOa20MT3kCFCc2iBlhObvWFokovdt7TCbSbr0w5xLmS3zWmBfRovuwM3/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG9y-R0QkMoYxMUiPn51wAQJqeNQB-bjf_mxiM_Ko5IH9hde4BRwMO8HU2l-Le0pZo30o0YSpXrXn-yep1GYHUGOa20MT3kCFCc2iBlhObvWFokovdt7TCbSbr0w5xLmS3zWmBfRovuwM3/s320/3.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">You just can't appreciate how cool this is... I want back now!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Trees</td></tr>
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Indian Creek. The world famous destination for sandstone crack climbing. I had my personal reservations about visiting there. But in retrospect, it’s probably the best investment of time I and the others have made in our climbing so far. Yes, we got spanked. But during that process, you develop a new skill set which not only paid dividends for the rest of the trip but for life. One thing I did struggle to get my head round was top roping some routes. I’m a very British climber and hold the onsight/flash attempt at high value. Not that we did much TRing, but Pete got me into doing a few routes, particularly 5.12 finger cracks. They are basically desperate. But, the process of stringing 3 or 4 moves together and learning the body positioning was priceless. One does feel like a complete punter, but its just part of the process. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Shade (Photo: Rory Brown)</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-okQCLYPCq1c/WiuojcynJBI/AAAAAAAAGGE/s1600/24745998898_c49ffc6168_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1070" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-okQCLYPCq1c/WiuojcynJBI/AAAAAAAAGGE/s1600/24745998898_c49ffc6168_o.jpg" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-okQCLYPCq1c/WiuojcynJBI/AAAAAAAAGGE/s1600/24745998898_c49ffc6168_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1070" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-okQCLYPCq1c/WiuojcynJBI/AAAAAAAAGGE/s1600/24745998898_c49ffc6168_o.jpg" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me, Pete, Emma and Rory on top of Castleton Tower (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">5.11+ lay backing, easy. (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Anyway, in the Creek we sampled what we could. 5.10 hand cracks became easy along with 5.11 finger laybacks. We dispatched some lots of classic routes some of which you may have heard of, 'The Incredible hand crack’ and ‘Supercrack of the Desert’ (which team Scotland thought was shit despite its world famous must do status).. One thing I found with the cracks was, they are very physical, fairly satisfying, but can get a bit monotonous. Same move after another. Don’t get me wrong, its good fun, but I suspect we are use to more face climbing in the UK with varied moves on a pitch. After 2 days, we were all broken. I think Rorys hand is still swollen 5 weeks later! Living in the creek was cool. No phone signal, no towns or cities or major roads. Just a mellow relaxed feel with a few climbers dossing about. A pretty good place to be for resetting the social media button. I could keep ranting about the Creek. But I won’t. As far as I’m concerned it got 10 out of 10 and I will certainly be back. Thanks to Emma for her drive to go there. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The Incredible Hand Crack</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">A full day's climbing was never enough. So some evening bouldering was needed (Photo: Rory Brown)</td></tr>
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Every route we did, every crag we visited, it always got compared to Scotland. Every night in the RV, team Scotland went into serious discussion on how things compared to the 'Ruthven traverse', 'Ashie Fort', 'Am Fasgadh'. Obviously Far East Wall on Beinn Eighe top trumped it all ;-). The skye lines were compared with the Cullin ridge and the 3 sisters of Glencoe was spotted in the Creek. Why did we even bother leaving?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete Clarckson loving the scottish summer. Why would you leave?</td></tr>
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Zion, excuse my language, but fuck me! What a place. I basically wet myself as we drove into the national park. After a total ass kicking at Indian Creek, I had to admit to the team I had my concerns about attempting Moonlight Buttress 5.12+. Pete said himself, it had slipped down on his priority list. We gleaned tiny bits of information from other climbers regarding it, but it was all very mixed. Some said it was tough and as hard as the cracks in the Creek. Others, said it was more friendly and positive for the fingers with pods and some features on the wall. However, I realised that we were in America, the other side of the world. Zion was nearby. I had been banging on about it all year. What’s the worst that could happen? You end up doing one of the finest 5.9 C1 Aid routes in North America. I have limited aid climbing skills so this could be an opportunity to practice….</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Zion</td></tr>
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A switch was flicked, bags were packed that night, confidence appeared out of nowhere. Pete and I jumped on the 8.00 am shuttle bus in search of Moonlight Buttress. We had 4 days in Zion. It was a tough decision on how to spend our time. Not feeling confident on free climbing Moonlight Buttress in a day, we thought to give ourselves the best chance of doing it would be at least to pre inspect it, and try various sections over the next 2 days. The plan was, we could do the first half to the top of the crux, then the next day, rap in and check it out. From that, we could decide is it worth an attempt in a day. We had no portaledge or bivi kit so were limited to a day ascent. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Moonlight Buttress</td></tr>
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Day 1, we arrived to find 2 teams already on the entry pitch's. Paul Tattersall warned me that could be an issue. The first team were French wads who disappeared in a blink. The next team were 2 young aid climbers from Colorado or California. In fact I’m not sure, not that it matters. Meeting them at the top of pitch 1, they too felt out their depth and kindly let us past. The first 4 pitches of moonlight buttress are good, but basically entry pitches to get onto the main pillar of rock. The first hard pitch was the boulder problem off the rocker block. Right, first things first. Alex Honnald soloed this. Flipping hec. I was hanging off the bolts, brushing holds and trying to work out which feet worked best for me in the maze of ticked smears. All were shit. A few attempts, I eventually dispatched the problem. Above lay the initial part of the corner. My mouth was dry from a mix of dehydration and intimidation. But as I got established, the climbing was very amenable. Positive finger locks with occasional footholds which provided a welcome rest. Arriving at the belay, I felt like a hero. Pete flashed the boulder problem and soon got absorbed into the stellar layback. This pitch in its own right would be 4 star, 3 star whatever starring system you use. Above lay the crux pitch, the upper part of the corner. Racking up again, I quested on up. The guide mentions that this pitch is all about endurance. Somehow I managed to get up and into the flare. Boxed out ma face, I managed to fiddle in some kit (wires of course. None of the cams I carried!). Making a poor job of trying to de pump and relax, I persevered. At the back of the flare is a line of awkward finger locks. The walls were smooth and devoid of footholds. I attempted to jam my way up the flare but kept sliding down. So I eventually resorted to lay backing up the thing. The left edge was rounded, but at least it felt like a hold. I got level with some random bolts on the left. Eyeballing them, desperate to clip them, I couldn’t move. I was practically horizontal. The body tension in me snapped and I was flying sides ways. My left testicle got squeezed in my leg loop which was rather sore. After some petty grumbling, I was hawling my way back up the rope. Sitting on the kit, I took a moment then got up to the bolt. Clipped that then worked the flare out. Meanwhile, 4 folk gathered at the hanging belay above. Team France and the US/ Solvenian team, Kirk and Peter Juvan. My plan was to get to the belay then have a look at this pitch. It all became a bit of a cluster fuck. The French team moved on but that left us with Kirk and Peter. These guys had tried Moonlight Buttress a few times and were checking it out for a free ascent in the next day or so. It was good to get some more information regarding the upper pitch's. These guys were honed crack climbers, so it was hard to gauge the real difficulty. Basically it came down to looking at Pete and my hands/fingers. I was fine they said. Poor Pete with his skinny fingers may struggle. I think that was one thing that really stuck out on the trip was grades became irrelevant. It seemed to be more about hand size. I struggled on red cams, whilst Pete slotted his hands in and got purchase…. Anyway, to avoid more faffing we binned the day.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete following Pitch 5</td></tr>
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<o:p> </o:p>Day 2, we rapped in from the top. The aim was to just suss out the upper pitches. The top hard pitch is known as the ‘Nutting Pitch’5.12b. We both had a play on that and it seemed fine. Sport climbing as Peter Juvan (the Slovenian) described it as. That was music to my ears. Just another F7b to finish the day off. That’s how I lodged that in my head. Easy. The pitch below, now that’s not so easy. Its described as ‘splitter rattley fingers'. Its purple cams for about the first 10 meters. Then a ledge is reached. Above that is some technical balancey climbing to get into an easier lay back. Basically I couldn’t string any of the splitter together. I was a bit like 2 moves up then I fell and sagged onto the rope. Pete had a play and just said ‘pfffft’. It was a bit frustrating as I knew that this section would need to be aided. Oh well, we are two face climbers after all….</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">On top on Moonlight Buttress</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Rapping down 'The Nutting Pitch'</td></tr>
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The next pitch below, eh pitch 8 I think, is a lovely splitter but much more friendly. The crack was slightly podded and there was one or two foot holds on the wall. We both top roped this with ease and felt much better. Then there was the flare below…the pitch above the crux. This starts off as a smooth chimney, that narrows. You need to get into the crack and turned, into a desperate jamming lay back on green cams. As the topo said, much harder than the grade suggests. Well we both flailed on this. My heart sank again. Maybe we just need more miles on the cracks? Anyway, what the hec, whats the worst that can happen, It would be a nice route to French free! </div>
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That night we discussed a plan. I was keen to try it in a day the next day. Mainly due to that fact it was a Friday, we could get an early lift up with Kirk and Peter. Plus if we had a rest day, then it meant a day push would be on a Saturday… there could be other teams in the way. We have put a bit of work in and wanted to give ourselves the best chance possible. For 2 useless pastey white Scots, we needed all the time in the world. But Pete being very open (and sensible) said he was not psyched and needed a rest. To be fair he does talk sense unlike me who is full of shit. So we agreed on that. To give ourselves the best chance in doing the route in a day we opted for climbing the first 4 entry pitch's on day 3 and fix our rope. This meant on the Saturday, we could get a head start. Combined with the offer of an early lift up the canyon from Peter Juvan who had a permit for his car (Basically we were relying on the shuttle bus service which is excellent but, not ideal for early starts.), that seemed a fair deal.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Day 4. Jugging our dynamic fixed ropes was a total ballache. I had one jumar and a gri gri. Pete had a Jumar and a crawl. Dick! Hauling our bag was also another ballache. It got caught in a v groove near the start so I had to rap down, free it, faff, re jug up… I am not cut out for aid climbing jugging, hard labour ballocks (Well I love it really ;-), just like Scottish winter). We both arrived at the Rocker Blocker pissed off and wasted from messing around. In retrospect, climbing the first few pitch's would have been quicker. You live and learn. Anyway, the main thing was, we had a head start and were at the front with no one on front. Pete, dispatched the Rocker Boulder problem and made light work of the first part of the corner. I came to second this. The boulder problem went fine… the corner I just got the seconding fear really badly. Cold, not trusting myself, I was a shambles. I climbed the pitch fine but only just. Admittedly I was pretty nervous about the whole thing. Racking up for the crux, the sun began to try and push out from the clouds. Great. So off I went, a jibbering mess. I reached the flare totally boxed and flash pumped. A brutal warm up. Arranging the kit, I got into my layback sequence then transferred into the top of the flare. I became a bit stuck. I was sliding out of the locks, finger tape peeling, it was like a sinking ship. Bugger. I tried hard, but nothing worked. Eventually I fell. “Bugger!” I said. Pete lowered me and I stripped some gear as they would block the finger locks. His wise words of wisdom calmed me down. The next bank of clouds rolled in and I was off. This time, my nerves had been shot and I was significantly more relaxed. The pitch felt piss. However, a cheeky face hold I crimped on, crumbled from my raw power. This sent me into a barn door swing, I stopped myself... the chains were reached, thank god! Pete followed cleanly and was well psyched. This was a full on very airy hanging belay. So after a bit of faff, we swapped the ropes etc and I was back on the lead. Then some rain drops started to fall.... FFS</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete leading up the initial part of the corner above the boulder problem.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete following pitch 6 with Kirk and Peter Juvan below.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Happy</td></tr>
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Above was the desperate chimney flare. I’m not sure what happened but I felt totally solid on it and the pitch went without any hassle. Maybe having no expectations was enough to relax me. Above this was a nice ledge we could walk about on. We stashed some food and water here so it was nice to take a moment, enjoy the situation and re fuel a bit. Pete was up next. He racked up and off he went. I felt sorry for him as his fingers and hands were much slimmer than mine, Kirk and Peter (Juvan). He gave it all he had and got most of the way up the pitch before sliding out of a lock. He looked down and kindly passed the lead to me. He knew I may have a better chance of climbing it clean. For me, the locks were solid bar 3 at two thirds of the pitch. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete following Pitch 7 above the chimney flare</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete leading off up pitch 8. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete following pitch 8</td></tr>
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However, looking up at the next pitch that 'splitter rattley fingers' 5.12b/c crack wiped the smile off my face. By this point, I was beginning to tire a bit with cramping hands and biceps. I racked up and started jamming up muttering something about French freeing if need be. Anyway, similar to the flare, I was psyched and with no expectations. Yes, I was trying hard, but somehow I found myself eyeballing the tapered jams at the top of the splitter. But you cant have it all and I slipped out with excitement. Shit! After giving it that effort, I wasn’t sure I had it in me for another go, but I had to try. Back the belay, ropes pulled, another piss down the route, I was back on it. This time, I gained the halfway ledge, just! For me, that section of climbing was one of the best leads I've done. There was still the technical section above but at least that was more ‘normal’ followed by some easy lay backing. Pete followed again. Blooming hec, I owe him for this. One last hard pitch; ‘The Nutting Pitch’. What did I say earlier, just like sport climbing? Sort of. The weight of the rack, cramping hands, abs and back, I was in my element. A pure test of endurance. This went with no hassle. To save time, I combined this with the top 10c pitch which the guide recommends. That was awkward enough but satisfying. We topped out at 17.20. Heaps of time for the last bus down the canyon. Jogging down amongst the tourist, one girl asked, ‘have you just done Moonlight Buttess in a day?’. Needless to say a blunt Scottish ‘Aye’ came out of me. Then an excited ‘Ride on!!!!’ was her response. Very good.</div>
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Jeepers, we weren’t even down at the road and we were discussing going big walling in Norway next summer. But firstly we had to deal with ‘The Original Route’ on the Rainbow wall.<o:p></o:p></div>
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As a British climber, we are all very aware of Alex Honnald soling these big routes in America and around the world. From the armchair, its all very impressive but hard to comprehend. Every pitch, both Pete and I were glad of a rope clipped through a cam above our head. Honnald is on a different planet with another level of fitness. <o:p></o:p></div>
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For 2 Scots who had limited crack climbing experience, I think we did ok. As Pete pointed out, what a route to learn the art. I owe it to Pete. He saw that I maybe had a more of a chance of freeing the route so gave me the opportunity to fulfil a dream. Thanks Pete for been a solid partner and keeping me safe with your new found MIA techniques. He is off to North Wales next year to do the Assistant Imstructor scheme. The whole trip I pushed in into sending an application form off. Of course I knew he was suitable and so was offered an interview. He doubted his suitably but I gave him the encouragement knowing the Brenin would love this genuine bloke. Annoyingly the bugger got the job! Nice one, but that’s one less good climber in the North of Scotland. Meanwhile, North Wales has the privilege of having this young fresh faced beast! Please take a moment and enjoy his photo's on his <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/125351312@N04/">Flickr</a> page.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, the next day we both felt a tad broken. Sad to wave good bye to Zion, the 4 of us headed for the bright lights of Red Rocks. But that’s another story in part 2 along with more stories from RV life ;-) <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9f1xxzcCAPBYowESZCfJ1rBRoVmtfmz5HXIRWwfRHocPyULAlr-THIVI8Mp33AwhdysPOAjLCxSffQ9ufqiIaPlPgJ5vqAQtyFcRsQHUwgbttOWfqGYjtZRCs_QbwVWiC1fxgWNssMSl/s1600/37730264135_8aa84343c0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv9f1xxzcCAPBYowESZCfJ1rBRoVmtfmz5HXIRWwfRHocPyULAlr-THIVI8Mp33AwhdysPOAjLCxSffQ9ufqiIaPlPgJ5vqAQtyFcRsQHUwgbttOWfqGYjtZRCs_QbwVWiC1fxgWNssMSl/s320/37730264135_8aa84343c0_o.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
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Refueling before the drive to Red Rocks (Photo: Peter Herd)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-77064175056649595422017-09-24T08:56:00.003-07:002017-09-24T08:56:55.825-07:00Summer<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Before I say a word... Lets not forget this is a typical Scottish Summers day out.</td></tr>
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I don’t know what’s happened, but with one blink, summer has disappeared. After our visit to ‘Realm of the Senses’ back at the end of May, there was an intense focus on The Shelterstone conditions. With Realm fresh in the muscle memory, Iain and I were both keen to get back and sort out ‘Athene’. I’m still waiting, but have come to accept that may need to wait for another year.<br />
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As usual, there was the usual psyche and faith that the Scottish hills would be dry for weeks on end accompanied with a steady summer breeze to keep the midgies at bay. Instead we had a stationary low pressure sat to the North West of Britain which chucked out a lovely mix of sunshine and showers. Not ideal, but if you played your cards right, there was plenty of options. And as we know, one good day up here counts for 5 good days in North Wales so it all balances out ;-).<o:p></o:p></div>
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The revival of some local trad routes which have been gathering dust on my ticklist got cleaned and climbed. Wolfman which has lost its pegs gave a rather testing E5. I think given its current state, E6 would be fair. Cyclops E4 6b, gives a great safe athletic outing. Richie Betts established ‘Transvison Clamp E6 6b’. A scary onsight he commented. I replaced the thread and gave it a token look. Not to bad I thought… So I returned with Gaz Marshall to give it a Flash/not quite onsight attempt. Up and down, scared shitless, fiddly C3’s, balancey and bouldering. “Flipping hec take there Gaz!” I came down for a rest, had a word with myself, pulled the ropes and went up for a ground up attempt. Same again, “Take there” This time, sat on what I thought was a good wire, I checked the holds out. As I sagged again, the wire blew out. “Get me down now!” I had had enough. A route at a grade I should be onsighting, I went hope feeling rather spanked. I need to have a look at this one. Returning, I played the head point game. Checked it out, practised the moves, sorted the gear and dispatched. I would have never onsighted it the sequence so for me, the style was acceptable. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete on 'Cyclops E4 6b'</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on Wolfman E6 6b (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">An onsight attempt of 'Transvison Clamp E6 6b' (Photo: gaz Marshall)</td></tr>
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Both Caithness and The Aberdeen sea cliffs provided a dry sanctuary from the prevailing westerlies. My friends in Aberdeen have raved about Earnsheugh over the last few years to me. For some reason, I have always doubted the quality and have just been put off for the fickle conditions they experience over the. However, Anna and I had a great day climbing the 3 classic E5’s on the crag. I left Necromancer for the end. Unknowingly this has a reputation for spanking folk. It was a rude surprise for tired arms at the end of the day to be faced with the strenuous technical sequence. But, I managed to dig deep and pull it out the bag. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Pete loving the sub optimal conditions at Rosehearty</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Gaz on 'Banana Republic E1 5b'</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on 'Escher's Steps E6 6b' (Photo: Gaz Marshall)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Anna starting up the first pitch of 'Prehistoric Monster E5 6a)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on 'Thugosaurus E5 6a' (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
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Like last year, Binnein Shuas was the reliable venue to visit, this year was no different. As always, Iain Small has been out adding several new lines to the crag. He added Siege Engine E7 6c at the end of last season. This takes an impressive left to right rising traverse under a big roof. I gave it a flash attempt with the aid of Iain’s gear knowledge. In typical Murdoch style I must have been on the route for over and hour before I reached the crux bulge. Needless to say, the body was fatigued and a simple foot slip from a weakening core spat me off. Believing I still had the fitness to dispatch that day, I gave it 3 more ground up attempts. Each go, I inched higher, but by 8.30pm, the arms had finally gone. Meanwhile that day, Iain added the superb athletic ‘Braes of Balquither E7/8 6c’. This line starts up the existing ‘Wild Mountain Thyme E5 6b’, then climbing directly up the prominent pink streak. </div>
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I found myself working more and farther away due to the School Summer Holidays. But Siege Engine was burning at the back of my mind. Of course the days I worked, the weather was nice. Then my day off arrived and rain was pushing in from the west. But my psyche was too much. So a long day trip from the north saw me down and nabbing a clean ascent before the heavens opened. Later that week, Cubby, Dave Macleod and I teamed up for a repeat of Iains ‘Braes of Balquither’. With its runout nature combined with a crucial blind gear placement, we both opted for a cheeky head point of the route. Dave has also been busy at Binnien Shuas so its cool to see some proper hard routes been climbed. On his <a href="http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/summer-of-shuas.html">blog</a>, there is a great range of photo's which shows the crag well.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Iain opening his new route, 'Braes of Balquither E7/8 6c'</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on my first attempt on 'Siege Engine E7 6c' (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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Simon Nadin, one of the 3 ‘The Masters’ of rock climbing, has been silently developing the Caithness Sea Cliffs for many years now. I suspect the odd glimpse of this has appeared on my Flickr with the odd crag appearing, often called ‘Crag X’. The only person to react was Andy Nesbit. But this summer, Caithness saw a wee bit more exposure. Located in the North East (obviously) it stayed fairly dry this year. I have this rule that I only visit Caithness once a year (because I thought it was shit). However, this summer that rule was broken and I must have been up half a dozen times. One crag in particular at Sgaps became a popular venue…. to the point, it almost looked like a crag in North Wales with many of the lines chalked up. A totally novelty for these far flung remote places! On one visit, Simon checked a new line out which we both had seen before. I felt honoured when Simon Jummered back out and gifted me this quality new line. On my first attempt, the combination of a crucial wet hold, boxed arms and a highly technical sequence saw me off. Sitting on the rope, I worked an alternative sequence and topped out. Later that day I climbed it clean placing the kit on lead. A route heavily reliant on the smallest micro cams with some stiff moves at half height combined with a much safer but hard sequence at the top, Pete, Simon and I decided to sit on the fence like every other new route in Caithness and give ‘Gods Gift’ the split grade of E6/7 6b. I would like to link in <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05">Ian Taylors</a>, <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/125351312@N04">Peter Herds</a> and <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/42354965@N08">Simon Nadins</a> Flickr. The three of them have really captured some brilliant moments up there. So please take time and have a look and hopefully become inspired to visit. However, all good things must come to an end. Simon took myself and Pete to his other ‘new crag’. Here there was just this amazing new big meaty line. A failed attempt from Simon in the midday heat saw the 3 of use retreat to the ‘Whaligoe steps Café’. I know Simon has gone back and established the line. But the direct finish needs climbed. Similar to Siege Engine, all our focus went towards watching the weather and conditions for Caithness. But things deteriorated and its now becoming a distant memory. Good job Simon. Next summer…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The Master showing Pete his old friends</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">A good wall</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on the first ascent of 'Gods Gift E6/7 6b' (Photo: Simon Nadin)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Simon attempting his new line in ridiculously hot conditions (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
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As I have mentioned earlier in this post, Iain Small is constantly operating in the dark opening more new lines up around the country. I am going to be bold and say he has probably added more new E7's to Scotland this year compared with Wales? But I'm sure Caff would argue with that?! Creag A’Bhancair which I have recently learned is a relatively quick drying venue become the latest crag for hard new routes. This time, Iain’s project was to link the start of ‘Up with the Sun E7 6b’, cut through ‘The Risk Business E5’ cover some new ground and join ‘Gone with the wind E7’. This was an impressive cleaning effort from him over several days. Unfortunately the day I joined him, he was wasted from preparing the route and was unsuccessful. However, he went back another day and climbed it clean. I’m not sure of the grade, but you do the maths. I opened my Trad climbing account on the crag with an onsight of ‘Romantic Reality E7 6b’ which I was pretty happy about. This has been on my list on the wall for several years now. Cubby was out so I felt quite privileged to have the first ascensionist watching and taking photo’s. But that was just the introduction. In 2014, Iain had opened up ‘The End of Innocence E7 6c’ and the ‘Constant Gardner E6/7 6b’. Niall who had repeated The Constant Gardner said that first pitch should come with a health warning. I opted out and started up ‘Carnivore Direct E4 6a’ to access the superbly sustained top pitch. All in all, this created an nice E6 route. Meanwhile, Iain was hard at it again. This time he re climbed ‘Symbioisis E8 6b’ and linked that into the top of ‘Up with the sun’. I guess I have referred to these routes as link ups, but by no means are they less worthwhile. I think what Iain has done is just applied a modern approach to straighten things out and created logical lines. It has been pretty cool having Cubby around to give us an insight into the first ascents of the original lines. Of course he had the vision of these new lines Iain is doing, but just never got back to sorting them out. One must remember, those original lines are still meaty leads even by present standards.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on the top pitch on 'The Constant Gardener E6 6b' (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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I actually owe Iain a full day of belaying. I was psyched for ‘The End of Innocence’ Niall had raved to me about it rating it as one of the best E7’s he had ever done. There was the slight issue that is has a bold start above a sky hook. The fall would be nasty with small gear far below, I think a ride down the cliff would result in a collision with the Carnivore ledge. Naill having repeated this with Iain shortly after he had done it had the advantaged of a chalked up line. I must admit, I was keen to try but just felt rather hesitant. Iain however kindly offered to faff about, and do multiple raps in from the top to chalk the crucial parts. I know this is cheating a bit, but when one is about to embark on a route at their onsight trad limit, I’ll take the advantage of chalked holds ;-). To gain this pitch, you need to climb ‘Celtic Dawn E5 6a’. Flipping hec, is all I can say about that. E5 climbing but you need an E6 head on. Not your casual standard E5. When I was racking up, Iain did point out that I wouldn’t need much gear… Obviously I still took it as I wanted to add more weight to give me the full on trad shitting myself experience. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The crux of ‘The End of Innocence’ is a traverse right across an overlap. The holds get smaller, the foot holds disappear and everything just gets exponentially harder. I fell off on my first two attempts, then managed to unlock the powerful sequence. A bit of rest following the cool flake feature before the route kicked in again. Hard move out right to gain an undercut and decent foot hold proved tricky, but I managed to keep it together. Now, I could see the finishing holds above. But between me and them lay another hard fingery sequence. This is where Niall blew it. I felt this weigh me down even more. Every time I left the overlap, my elbows touched the sky. FFS! On each reversal back to the rest, I was becoming more fatigued. Obviously this was late in the day, I just wanted it to end, but was actually loving it at the same time. Then eventually I had a word with myself to just commit and treat it like a sport route. With that mentality, I found myself lunging for the finishing jugs, body arching back. I hung poised, gathering myself before I moved higher. Collapsing at the belay and clipping in, that big wave of trad satisfaction began to wash over me…<o:p></o:p></div>
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Enough of that none sense, the Torridon bouldering season has started.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCrrPVP6vj45d2UzTSY9akhFDbK2Tr4uavaI79YHCajR6MvXFuxWMamgil4qgkThtkeQAv1QQ11vlRNFWS7OER0wZVYMXqMrINavKXoOCLmMvZgR01r3nQxt0P-1IRkvRcVpkkIF1480c/s1600/36985936441_0758366c22_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCrrPVP6vj45d2UzTSY9akhFDbK2Tr4uavaI79YHCajR6MvXFuxWMamgil4qgkThtkeQAv1QQ11vlRNFWS7OER0wZVYMXqMrINavKXoOCLmMvZgR01r3nQxt0P-1IRkvRcVpkkIF1480c/s320/36985936441_0758366c22_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Gaz ignoring the rapidly deteriorating conditions</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggSHlce5j30fN8aqG4dVWhvM3FsRLPxtlv1iRgrjgNgJ6yCc8GIJy6pp2pqXNuS_bK09rIel2DmaZLBw3rGhNZZ8cZHa_aa1I9fPmPZ8vW-_6J9S-wYFDUJY-ifuHzFdI6sOjqz768yFDh/s1600/36314630213_8c9254e82a_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggSHlce5j30fN8aqG4dVWhvM3FsRLPxtlv1iRgrjgNgJ6yCc8GIJy6pp2pqXNuS_bK09rIel2DmaZLBw3rGhNZZ8cZHa_aa1I9fPmPZ8vW-_6J9S-wYFDUJY-ifuHzFdI6sOjqz768yFDh/s320/36314630213_8c9254e82a_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Mhairi making a slap for the lip on 'Central Roof'</td></tr>
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<br />
...But of course, I was tempted back yesterday for another repeat of Iains new direct on 'End of Innocence' which gives something in the region of E7/8 6c. Flashing the new section of climbing, I thought it was in the bag. But some damp holds, tired arms, I failed on familiar ground at the top. But I am still content with doing it ground up, second go. The whole experience certainly felt like the next level of trad climbing for me... </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-23220981802273358762017-07-15T05:15:00.000-07:002017-07-15T05:48:29.108-07:00Realm of the Senses<div class="MsoNormal">
Gazing through the sheets of torrential rain, I gazed up at
the impressive rock mass of The Shelterstone crag. I was a young keen teenager out bagging the
Munro Beinn Mheadhoin on a horrible wet Saturday in July. A bit like today. I can still vividly remember that day. No visibility, pissing rain and
soaked to the skin. I loved it. At this point in my life, I had barely started
rock climbing. For some reason I owned a copy of 'Highland Outcrops' and ‘The
Cairngorms Volume 1’. In my mind, I knew
it all, in reality, I knew nothing. That
picture of Murray Hamilton questing across the second pitch Missing Link was
(and still is), one of the most inspiring things I had ever seen. At the grade of E4, that was way beyond
me. In fact, untouchable. At the time, I was still lobbing off VS. ‘V
Diff’s’ and ‘Severe’ were more my standard.
However, another route known as Realm of the Senses E7 6c was imprinted
in my mind. I don’t know why, it just
was. The thought of a route at E7
standard was even further beyond my mental capacity. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1bDrcDyqAx86sdgn2W88xXpBiDKxw_vjQbZIYa7mwEtIOaaOy4YfLoC-EAsqBEpROEaByZnJSDLS0F68-h6ukTmUgF8NGXbyIiGVmDfLw8PuX6_pryEzbjbOg70JmDnY1cA4Up_ptLNh7/s1600/29385756485_bdfbf7ca0b_o+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1bDrcDyqAx86sdgn2W88xXpBiDKxw_vjQbZIYa7mwEtIOaaOy4YfLoC-EAsqBEpROEaByZnJSDLS0F68-h6ukTmUgF8NGXbyIiGVmDfLw8PuX6_pryEzbjbOg70JmDnY1cA4Up_ptLNh7/s320/29385756485_bdfbf7ca0b_o+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Shelterstone. Unfortunately not the best view of the slabs</td></tr>
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Time moved on and my hill walking days out declined. These days were replaced by rock
climbing. As I became a bit more familiar
with rock climbing and grading, that fantasy of the Missing Link and Realm of
the Senses just seemed even more distant…
This rock climbing malarkey was hard.
I aspired to E1 and realised if I reached that point in my life, I would
be content.</div>
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Anyway, I won’t bore you with my rock climbing
apprenticeship story. The Central Slabs
in the Cairngorms is one of the best crags we have in Scotland. I think so. Many would disagree, probably because they
have no actual knowledge or experience on them.
I have had the privilege of working my way through the routes in
ascending grade order, each with their
own story. The Pin E2 with Robin Thomas,
a fine second route after a quick ascent of The Steeple E2. The Harp E3 with
Danny Laing. It was due to rain from
late morning, so one Saturday night we walked in, bivied at the base and started
the route just after first light. It was
magic. The wind was howling whilst the whole crag basked morning sunshine. A
sight rarely seen by the day visitor due to its easterly aspect We
were in the Mountain Café in Aviemore by 11am.
The Missing Link E4 5c with Robin Thomas. This went with no
problem. The danger was I developed a
hunger for more. Then there was Thor E5
6b with Guy Robertosn. I can still feel
the relief of grabbing the belay flake.
My mouth has never been so dry!
Cleaning on lead was new to me.
How I never fell off, I will never know.
That day, Guy awarded me my Cairngorm Granite Technicians Badge. I woke the next day broken. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy Robertson following pitch 2 on Thor</td></tr>
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Cupids Bow E5 6a with Gaz Marshall was a less
intense day out. I then thought, enough
was enough. The routes became a
different ball game after that. Harder
with much more serious run outs. But Run
of the Arrow E6 6b burned in my mind.
Julien Lines said to me it was fine.
So Andy Ingils came in for ‘one more outing on the slabs’. This was hard and the gear was terrible. The guide mentions a 'large wedge shaped runner'. For the
inexperienced eye, I could not see this. With the blinkers on, I did the crux
traverse. It was a relief to not be
testing the gear. Caff writes a good story.
I’m glad this route slowed the UK s finest trad climber down ;-). </div>
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"<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;"><i>The last one on a recent trip to Scotland made me think about the history of the climb and was more testing than I would have expected, no offence to Murdo. Setting off on the main pitch on Run of the Arrow I had my trainers on my harness and was expecting a quick run up a classic e6, not quite as cocky as it sounds as I’ve done a few 100 of this grade and normally get up them first go although I’ve found an easy way of finding fear is to set off on them when very tired or hungover.</i></span></div>
<i><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">Dinwoodie had onsighted to the high flake on it on a 1</span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;">st</span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;"> ascent effort and then managed to scrape in a wire somehow and make an epic retreat. Later on Pete Whillance abseiled the climb and then did it. </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: Tahoma, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">My guidebook said many wires in the cracks on the face, I got 2 ok RPs next to each other which and the sequence above felt E6 leading to easier climbing and the end of the good feet. I did ponder for a few minutes there. I knew Pete Whillance would have had a fag where I was and carry on regardless of facing a fall which I thought you’d be very luck to survive. I was pretty impressed Dinwoodie had got to this point without knowing anything about the level of climbing or gear he faced which must have been one of the pushiest efforts of the time.</span></i><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-family: "tahoma" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: small; text-align: justify;"><i>I eventually climbed higher to get in an RP and reversed back to make the grim move to get gear in the lower bit of the flake where I didn’t actually get anything useful in. I extended the top RP miles to stop it coming out with rope drag and eventually committed to the 6b moves up left. I spoke with Tony Stone later who said I’d missed some key sideways stopper but either way I didn’t clock it and as a lead without the bashed in wires it felt more dangerous than many E7s I’d done, quite like the routes found on north stack. Dan Vajzovic got off lightly as he was close to getting guided up it the week before but his boots looked a bit too crap</i>." (James McHaffie, September 2016)</span><br />
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Enough was enough. Realm still burned at the back of my mind….
But 6c on those slabs is nails.
Aphrodite E7 6b began to play havoc with my mind. Iain Small and I summoned the courage to do
this. A 3 day affair saw us bagging this
bad boy in 2014. I actually wrote an article
about this. It can be found in the SMC
journal Vol 2016. But, if folk were
interested, I will publish it here. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaz Following pitch 2 on Cupids Bow</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain Snapping a peg on Aphrodite</td></tr>
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You must be bored by now?<o:p></o:p></div>
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October 2016, I found myself starting up Realm of the Senses
E7 6c. The forecast was for rain to
arrive in the afternoon. Instead it
arrived later morning. That was the end
of the mountain trad for summer 2016.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6knXGcPWFQtFwd3c8hEwal1y9m5dLKQMnvdbO4_2YAc0hV0h7b9psWWfYRGy0fZrZk2qrLop5Id7A1UomQQLd236OHdmCDovk994bPkq42vkcaRUnh6U-h3PG8hFaOitsJl_WsqoQ__k/s1600/P1030029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6knXGcPWFQtFwd3c8hEwal1y9m5dLKQMnvdbO4_2YAc0hV0h7b9psWWfYRGy0fZrZk2qrLop5Id7A1UomQQLd236OHdmCDovk994bPkq42vkcaRUnh6U-h3PG8hFaOitsJl_WsqoQ__k/s320/P1030029.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me starting up Realm of the Senses 2016 (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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Tuesday 23<sup>rd</sup> May 2017, I receive this from Gaz
Marshall “ <i>Just for info, I asked a mate in Aviemore about the Shelterstone
Connie. He said: ‘Hola! Hardly any snow
left I think. I looked over to the Shelterstone
today and saw no snow at the top of the crag.
Can’t vouch for seepage situation but with these warm temps forecast,
should be lovely</i>’.” That was enough to
send me into a world of pain. I messed up my working pattern and was missing
the bone dry conditions. However, with
some careful negotiation, I scored the Friday off. Iain was obviously committed to the cause
100%. There was no route name or venue
mentioned. We both knew where we were
heading. </div>
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Pitch 1 warms the feet up nicely. Iain quested off up the main pitch. It starts easy then ramps itself up with difficulty. A hands off rest is gained. Iain unlocked the starting groove and reached
the point where the overlap turns horizontal.
He raved about the fact he could actually hang on some crimps and rest
his calves! He eventually committed
left, but was quickly ejected. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMhkchUEXGOroXXqdJKoimsVC1r8D4SpKl-JX0PH47kMLdQsYwV79VHjYh3VuvKKlkpJDkTitE4PeYkxEzUz_FmFdDyBY7x41X4WK_eThyyHDJbR-QlKSZbP33Ype979s1GELD_tiM6wNk/s1600/P1030634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMhkchUEXGOroXXqdJKoimsVC1r8D4SpKl-JX0PH47kMLdQsYwV79VHjYh3VuvKKlkpJDkTitE4PeYkxEzUz_FmFdDyBY7x41X4WK_eThyyHDJbR-QlKSZbP33Ype979s1GELD_tiM6wNk/s320/P1030634.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain following pitch 1 of Realm</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain working his way up the groove.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0srrfqYwuZvY5xDyMP0iGMaT8i5mhGl96rlC1xUBdiFAT1f70Cf_mKW-gMRwOdwLi2Ojwf9qzTSkdxrQcmx3mAQRuGNOYDzviNNtmpJhoYmVqFBH5S_99DG600QlbMqx3xOHIRlSf7Si6/s1600/P1030648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0srrfqYwuZvY5xDyMP0iGMaT8i5mhGl96rlC1xUBdiFAT1f70Cf_mKW-gMRwOdwLi2Ojwf9qzTSkdxrQcmx3mAQRuGNOYDzviNNtmpJhoYmVqFBH5S_99DG600QlbMqx3xOHIRlSf7Si6/s320/P1030648.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain at the 'good rest'....still strenuous!</td></tr>
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I was up
next. Starting up the groove, I felt
rather tense and uneasy. Not a good
start. So a lot of upping and
downing. Eventually I committed and
gained the no hands rest. The first
desperate move of the route (for me anyway) was leaving this rest. Pasting my left foot on slippery granite and lay backing up the blunt overlap using a pinch
grip. I reached the resting crimps and
let my calves depump. Looking left
looked desperate. There was
nothing. Slab and overlap. The guide even says "Move left on non-existent holds..." I delicately moved out the rest made a few
moves, then was ejected too. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4L6Jn5iXSMZ_1Q1B50JXJXESKB7VeUzrTCk8AFxLvBoXC3cU9MLsCRB7KVsMPWpPJmeaxmicDxh8piPLeKSSTztOoEDh9B37myd9Hu3Pn0sre8ML-dyV0fUYYEgn_7dJE4num7ID_bz16/s1600/P1030665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4L6Jn5iXSMZ_1Q1B50JXJXESKB7VeUzrTCk8AFxLvBoXC3cU9MLsCRB7KVsMPWpPJmeaxmicDxh8piPLeKSSTztOoEDh9B37myd9Hu3Pn0sre8ML-dyV0fUYYEgn_7dJE4num7ID_bz16/s320/P1030665.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me looking left. (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Hmm, this
was not going to be an easy day! Iain
was up next and took the lob. (We are falling onto a good cluster of gear off to the right). But this time he took the time to try again
and again. Eventually he made it across
the overlap. It was good to see Iain
try! Then there was the Missing Link
section followed by the most tenuous, heart breaker of a move left to the Thor
Belay. Fixing a belay he rapped the pitch,
cleaning the kit out and scrubbing holds.
It was me next. By this point, I
was cold. Starting up the pitch I was
tense again. That first tricky move spat
me off. I lost it! I'm sure Gaz and Mhairi on The Steeple heard my tantrum. Back at the belay I was feeling frustrated
and annoyed. Anyway, maybe that was
good. A bit warmer now, I went
again. Somehow, I managed to get over
that move and reach the crimps. I had no
expectation any more. Glaring left, I
could see dabs of chalk… marking nothing.
But in fact marking something. I
guess it depends on ones perception of what is a hold and not a hold. Anyway, I went for it. Loving my big hands, I managed to just pinch
my way across the overlap left. Matching
feet on nothing, eyeballing a good side pull, I launched. Fuck!
I caught it, I was still on.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9fLpJzm3ajwstSvn_RoLZVf_meqLTm1MIaOTrGfWAXEZG4q-dOoP-VwLVPhEFFr9-T-_rpT1A5InkMji6eKIgsm-5qq3uX4tpy6fkYiUKBPiGFPyLkPBQ2VoCJ2mKtRA6kB7SzVqvhAVq/s1600/Murdo_Iain_Realm_of_the_Senses_Action.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1202" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9fLpJzm3ajwstSvn_RoLZVf_meqLTm1MIaOTrGfWAXEZG4q-dOoP-VwLVPhEFFr9-T-_rpT1A5InkMji6eKIgsm-5qq3uX4tpy6fkYiUKBPiGFPyLkPBQ2VoCJ2mKtRA6kB7SzVqvhAVq/s320/Murdo_Iain_Realm_of_the_Senses_Action.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the traverse (Photo: Martin Mackenna)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHX4RSGNb8nklG5DlyQZaStlx4mSaYcyiwXzjzCQRF7wOBHtlAAGwu-TqwT0P4iiK0zZaBHKOEGfZ5s8a6NMz5Mp4xWcUfPaQHH1X3YO68WHhVtODIaSAbHRAfqjI5ij9ZnZ0Z0zKPmEyE/s1600/P1030680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="745" data-original-width="1600" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHX4RSGNb8nklG5DlyQZaStlx4mSaYcyiwXzjzCQRF7wOBHtlAAGwu-TqwT0P4iiK0zZaBHKOEGfZ5s8a6NMz5Mp4xWcUfPaQHH1X3YO68WHhVtODIaSAbHRAfqjI5ij9ZnZ0Z0zKPmEyE/s320/P1030680.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh bugger, I just got through the crux (Photo: Iain Small) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That
woke me up. Taking a moment, I worked
the sequence out. I had to match it, and press off it, smear on nothing and
reach to the good flake out left. Closing
my eyes (well not literally) and taking
a deep breath I made the move. Blooming
heck! I felt totally committed. Arranging the gear, I took some time to chill
out. The crux was done. I just had to keep my head together for the
Missing Link crux. So up I went,
treating the 5c moves with as much respect for 6c moves. Then I arrived at the move out to the Thor
Belay. This looked hard. Annoyingly hard. Just give me some
overhanging crimps to pull on!
Please! But no, just a committing
move left. It basically involves a span left, releasing your right hand
smearing just your left foot to reach an out of reach (crap) hold. Then spanning above me with my right, I pinched a little arête, pasting my right foot up, some more moves, I can’t recall then a reach into the
juggy flake of Thor. Mouth dry, I
clipped the belay and sagged back.
Flipping heck, I still can’t believe it.
What a pitch! </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Iain was up next. For
him, it was a bit more stressful. Traversing
the overlap spat him off several times.
I could feel the stress and frustration.
These routes rely on just subtle irregularities in the rock. You can’t pull harder. To work the move is impossible without a top
rope. Last attempt, He got it, got to
the side pull. There was still that move
to the flake. Even I was holding my
breath and closing my eyes for him. He
did it. And off he went, cruising like
he does. Walking out that night was
unreal. That pitch of Realm of the
Senses was done! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Vvqq-f7263c0CT4nV3jI7J6zcmWUwhDvEcG6B6McXkDjsN1YuDceSydR9rU7oOWL9KYgBqnrGp0BRqeUklNotq5R22_wjJTtsPrngcJ5cfm6h9fZmHugpwQ-EYrRVTtkrfpwkz6nVj4_/s1600/P1030697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Vvqq-f7263c0CT4nV3jI7J6zcmWUwhDvEcG6B6McXkDjsN1YuDceSydR9rU7oOWL9KYgBqnrGp0BRqeUklNotq5R22_wjJTtsPrngcJ5cfm6h9fZmHugpwQ-EYrRVTtkrfpwkz6nVj4_/s320/P1030697.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on the Missing Link part.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dinner at 12.30am, followed by a crap sleep; I was broken
the next day. My whole body was cramping,
especially my calves. Normally after a
route on the slabs, I have no more interest.
However, Athene is burning in me.
However, that would involve the Realm pitch again. Folk keep asking me about Icon of Lust. That’s a different ball game. So I’m afraid the line will be drawn soon. Well I’ll draw it in pencil ;-)</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-33268318058429677702017-05-22T13:59:00.001-07:002017-05-22T13:59:42.696-07:00A bit of Trad followed by some old fashioned mountaineering Part 2<div class="MsoNormal">
Guy Steven had me booked in for a weekends climbing months
in advance. With Guy training to become
a Guide, he has learnt the ability to look into the future and predict the mint
weather. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well this 2 day weekend grew arms and legs and became a 5
day trip. Anna Wells got in touch and expressed
interest about doing the Skye ridge in a day.
I reacted to this and was keen, but not at the start of a climbing
weekend. So we bartend and settled for a
wrecky of the technical sections from Sgurr nan Eag to the Inn Pinn. I have spent a fair amount of time on the Cullin
for myself and guiding people. But, it
was cool to look at it from a different perspective and actually solo the
standard rope sections. Despite having a
few grades in hand TD gap was playing havoc with my mind. I guess I have only
ever glared at that steep greasy wall whilst rapping in. The day Anna and I approached the gap it was
bone dry. So no need to faff, I just
turned in and off I went. Ok, its not
ground breaking news as Peter Herd says, ‘an E7 climber down climbs a severe’. But it’s not just a bog standard severe, its
TD gap. I felt a bit guilty as I soloed
down with the rope in my bag so poor Anna had to keep the standard and follow. Then
of course there is the solo out. This
time, I ran the rope out as Anna was keen to have a proper look at this
grovel. I was due home on the Sunday
night. But, just pottering about on the
ridge that Thursday, I realised that this spell of weather was the time to strike
and do a quickish day traverse. With no
plans for the Monday, I mentioned to Anna I was going to stay on Skye. She has a proper job and had to work. So that gave her a bit of FOMO. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVWCkRQAuQ2azUbYSbmyml-iWhsXgz-9mH7SvV_Ntr-XMosJ80jodt__RenbXGOsSxhVdH2BSZcPJ_jC5StzgzgdGsl_xgXus2qK6v2LN6_V3DDKUjw_j3tKK8fBOlxtCKMuIYUiE7wQhY/s1600/20170508_100950_34500079566_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="72" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVWCkRQAuQ2azUbYSbmyml-iWhsXgz-9mH7SvV_Ntr-XMosJ80jodt__RenbXGOsSxhVdH2BSZcPJ_jC5StzgzgdGsl_xgXus2qK6v2LN6_V3DDKUjw_j3tKK8fBOlxtCKMuIYUiE7wQhY/s320/20170508_100950_34500079566_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cullin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfezN7caNvU98HBbbI_v4H0l0XIZsoUWahG1N6YJnub4TeLRXRBxmBTeoYwU2a3QcYKmANZLyAoVjJrAqILuuSxwCYo4pt1YSoD0XPyQUDYjjBoqt_ZnIOl41bYtXd8HxIJRYGcAZToU6n/s1600/20170504_160017_33668144544_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfezN7caNvU98HBbbI_v4H0l0XIZsoUWahG1N6YJnub4TeLRXRBxmBTeoYwU2a3QcYKmANZLyAoVjJrAqILuuSxwCYo4pt1YSoD0XPyQUDYjjBoqt_ZnIOl41bYtXd8HxIJRYGcAZToU6n/s320/20170504_160017_33668144544_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Sgur Thealach & Sgurr Alistair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyway, enough of that mountaineering non sense. I was here to go climbing. Guy and I teamed up on the Friday and headed
off to Bla Bheinn. Stairway to Heaven E5
6a was on the cards. A classic Fowler
route featuring in the iconic book Extreme Rock. As we turned left out of Broadford, we bumped
into Donald King who was at a loose end.
Three people carrying kit sounded much more appealing and sociable so
Donald jumped in for the ride. I was loving
the chat on the walk in; in summary, if there was any traverses, put all the
gear on Donalds rope and none Guys. That
seems fair. Despite the sun beating
down, the Great Prow was I the shade on arrival. The wind was howling up the gully and it was
flipping baltic. Guy whipped out his
multiple layers and so did I. Meanwhile
Donald put his goretex over his sweaty t-shirt and shivered. Guy was nominated for Pitch 1 & 2. I was sent off up pitch 3 leaving those 2
monkeys to discuss equalising anchors and clove hitches. I have heard mixed reports about this pitch. Some says its fine, others say it’s not
fine. Well I put the cams in and made
the traverse right. Much longer than I
was anticipating. Superb absorbing
climbing to say the least. I’ll let you
go and find out. Anyway, the best bit
was yet to come. Donald was on the left
hand rope. When he arrived at the cams,
he eyeballed the traverse, then the rope running diagonally up to me…with no
kit in. ‘Oh’ he said. Well, between me and him, we managed to
arrange a back rope. Guy too wanted the
same treatment. Just as well there was
an insitu old cam in place…. The rest of
the day went like clockwork with first class banter. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7ggPUWCxd8oVnxOvUEBXWhc8jv1wu0FuC4jhzRyyYA15DbUkP0tP-M2x5S01Vf8O1CJhO5nJRseTZyocbdd14gKdS3KkO3fxEUz5O7_FImL2QiOyMZ84okkIfx2i2IL2sO4DIej4XZat/s1600/P1030559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7ggPUWCxd8oVnxOvUEBXWhc8jv1wu0FuC4jhzRyyYA15DbUkP0tP-M2x5S01Vf8O1CJhO5nJRseTZyocbdd14gKdS3KkO3fxEUz5O7_FImL2QiOyMZ84okkIfx2i2IL2sO4DIej4XZat/s320/P1030559.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy on Pitch 1 of 'Stairway to Hevan'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZNCzq6qm8pw5462DC5CVwQfFFAvSJCjNousctTy8Q9_wbCwWzWBq-zfc7o9d_qsAVdmE5EaI8A7p-wQy7W_r3jJrpnRRzFH2UXaQQVeUfObAiTrQyOTPKdBk1waU3jGvg07HQ8cR2N1d/s1600/P1030564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioZNCzq6qm8pw5462DC5CVwQfFFAvSJCjNousctTy8Q9_wbCwWzWBq-zfc7o9d_qsAVdmE5EaI8A7p-wQy7W_r3jJrpnRRzFH2UXaQQVeUfObAiTrQyOTPKdBk1waU3jGvg07HQ8cR2N1d/s320/P1030564.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy following Pitch 3 of 'Stairway to Heavan'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Guy and I planned to go into have a look at Skye Wall E7 6b
on the Saturday. This interested
Donald. I felt a bit bad as Guy was
giving his time to me and now Donald also wanted to donate a day. Suddenly I felt a bit of pressure to perform. But I was reassured they were in it for the
day out. With a strong support team,
they requested to get the boat in from Elgol rather than the long slog over
from Glen Brittle which I planned on doing.
I couldn’t argue. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEYRIjinjOQXECe57Gd9BNWOJbZ9rGMOMUnv330YClBefjtdkKsTKl5f9Ue_kP6bk2xtmwwr_tRjCoGug8UgL3tf3wTKz5NX2UjY1chJIQgRJNvKNc765fm0_ZyVXjvcjmds8J7-m_AvFi/s1600/the-cullin_33700252863_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEYRIjinjOQXECe57Gd9BNWOJbZ9rGMOMUnv330YClBefjtdkKsTKl5f9Ue_kP6bk2xtmwwr_tRjCoGug8UgL3tf3wTKz5NX2UjY1chJIQgRJNvKNc765fm0_ZyVXjvcjmds8J7-m_AvFi/s320/the-cullin_33700252863_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cullin from Elgol</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Aware that Calum Muskett had been there a few days prior,
the wall was well chalked. I’m sure Gaz
Marshall would have been disgusted. I
was in two minds whether to give it an onsight attempt or to rap it and try a
few moves. I played safe and rapped
it. It is a serious route in the middle
of nowhere. I know caff onsighted it
last October, but as we all know, he is on a different planet. Blessed with a strong support team who
specialise in building belays, Donald and Guy were on the case. Rapping the wall, was cool. I checked the
gear and played on some moves. All in
all, the main pitch boils down to a bold first 3<sup>rd</sup> where the
climbing is thin and technical, quite away above kit. Then after that, the gear
starts to improve and the climbing still remains at high quality, but a bit
easier. I eyeballed the first pitch as I
was busting for the toilet on the way past.
Arriving on the ground I couldn’t get my harness off quick enough and
run. With a lighter body, I racked up
and went for it. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IlEPJzCd45M7U94LgWsp-ga8MGQmxCJiwKy6R768_PwPQZMIc4LUOtoOk4X064aIOhbzkfvm9PzTx7lSq4Yzklf_Te9x56V_U8zSTNj3CTTF7u8se5v1IsweW6vw590pkZrszo_NtNyL/s1600/P1030584.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="94" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7IlEPJzCd45M7U94LgWsp-ga8MGQmxCJiwKy6R768_PwPQZMIc4LUOtoOk4X064aIOhbzkfvm9PzTx7lSq4Yzklf_Te9x56V_U8zSTNj3CTTF7u8se5v1IsweW6vw590pkZrszo_NtNyL/s320/P1030584.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a shit place to hangout</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pitch 1 is a perfect E6
pitch in its own right. Thin gear, with
a few hollow holds which you need to pull but not pull on. Proper climbing. Guy followed in good style proving that the Guides
scheme training is not hampering his climbing ability. Pitch 2 went without a hitch. I guess that’s the difference between onsight
and having inspected the route. I do
love the onsight feeling, but it was nice just to relax a bit on the route and
take in the surrounding atmosphere. Guy
as always did a sterling job following.
I am incredibly lucky as its pretty tough to find a partner willing to
give their day up and allow you to lead the whole route whilst they sort all
the back ground faff. Cheers Guy! I lead us up a 60 m pitch to easier ground
then guy lead the final 8m V diff ground.
Donald met us at the top and was back on the case sorting ropes and kit
as I stood there faffing about. To end
the day we did some wonderful esoteric scrambling over An Dorus to get us into
Glen Brittle. A perfect day that I won’t
forget. Thanks to Donald and Guy for
their time and knowledge; a memorable day in the mountains which I won’t
forget.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnUZu1LGRtHcB-YFjTl9xH4aSOgQEg7WX2CSvoiRpbg6j-YCktPa1J9DI7KGvuCNEcpejfLffIfI3uLLYtwlff6mpZuvTWm4lPf7_hl40T5eIM5PobYUugimzgHBLghWURAnfZDt7VNQXv/s1600/fb_img_1494281551164_34541798025_o+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnUZu1LGRtHcB-YFjTl9xH4aSOgQEg7WX2CSvoiRpbg6j-YCktPa1J9DI7KGvuCNEcpejfLffIfI3uLLYtwlff6mpZuvTWm4lPf7_hl40T5eIM5PobYUugimzgHBLghWURAnfZDt7VNQXv/s320/fb_img_1494281551164_34541798025_o+%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 2 of 'Skye Wall' (Photo: Donald King)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0g3U-YKwcu2CTQqio2rrFMhqSQyh-vx0-XLHFfvZ1RBYbCylK17JvWVXKCLQ-Jg2Fh9EJwHpYIeIdNZ786nwZHMPR021SASXtNFWCTR25c-dfUd1D_iSmhzJJTX6spbNXUCGPMovfpSsM/s1600/20170506_195649_34380109081_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0g3U-YKwcu2CTQqio2rrFMhqSQyh-vx0-XLHFfvZ1RBYbCylK17JvWVXKCLQ-Jg2Fh9EJwHpYIeIdNZ786nwZHMPR021SASXtNFWCTR25c-dfUd1D_iSmhzJJTX6spbNXUCGPMovfpSsM/s320/20170506_195649_34380109081_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy and Donald. A pair of legends. Thanks guys.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjquo7LXxbXgXABxTL5Zug-N9vAqVyVhE5yVCqcz4iabSSN8-Kz1KJd0S1uNkKmK418JL_pjGZ-fymEM27fDVJTAwkwvWX6yyIDs3YSPISZGZDdFzyHSNRn6iyHLqvRijPxp1KN3KL5xbiA/s1600/the-cullin_34124991310_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjquo7LXxbXgXABxTL5Zug-N9vAqVyVhE5yVCqcz4iabSSN8-Kz1KJd0S1uNkKmK418JL_pjGZ-fymEM27fDVJTAwkwvWX6yyIDs3YSPISZGZDdFzyHSNRn6iyHLqvRijPxp1KN3KL5xbiA/s320/the-cullin_34124991310_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cullin at the end of the day from Elgol</td></tr>
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I</div>
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had a message from Anna saying she had managed to swap
shifts and was able to join me for a ridge traverse on Monday. I was a bit toasted on the Sunday morning, so
I just went and ran a few of the hills in the Red Cullin as an active rest day.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFy1fUAxTKz5yYz_IZ5Hl-YTnGEKug6li6wYVtU-nkbJsYh3XBh_3CDvvrJpZdu1Ex4o3yAVvztPdtApBpHE5-uzBy4sVSO-MDAy-Zc7kwcrK0k9XTgbJ7boEkx818_hpl170Rbv1FJp3/s1600/P1030587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFy1fUAxTKz5yYz_IZ5Hl-YTnGEKug6li6wYVtU-nkbJsYh3XBh_3CDvvrJpZdu1Ex4o3yAVvztPdtApBpHE5-uzBy4sVSO-MDAy-Zc7kwcrK0k9XTgbJ7boEkx818_hpl170Rbv1FJp3/s320/P1030587.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cullin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We had a sociable walk in with Peter and Amy. They planned the ridge over 2 days. The weather was a bit weird. Howling wind in glen brittle which lasted all
the way up into Coir’ a Ghrunnda. This
put a bit of doubt in my mind for making quick progress. But popping out onto the ridge, none!
Dropping sacks off on the ridge, one must face the psychological torture of having
to go out to Gars Beinn to start properly on the southerly top. With this fine weather there were a few other
team out. We came across a solo runner
and a pair of runners. I could sense a
slight unsaid superiority. They were runners
and we were punters. I never mentioned
this to Anna, but I think she could sense my competitiveness. Anyway, off they went jogging into the
distance. Never mind. Anyway, we were here to enjoy the day and not
race other teams. So off we went at 9.07am. Trotting back along the ridge towards Sgurr
Nan Eag, I could feel the early tingle of a blister. Bugger.
I retied my shoes and that was forgotten about. Anyway, continuing on, Anna was setting a
good pace uphill. She had rested legs whereas this was my 5<sup>th</sup> day
on. the hill. Dropping down and around An Casteil,
we momentarily discussed going out to Sgurr Dubh Mor. The guide suggests it’s not part of the ridge
but I couldn’t bring myself to miss it out.
Neither could Anna. So we kept
pure and went out. To our surprise we me
our running friends. ‘Ah ha, hmm, that’s
interesting’ I thought. Tagging the
summit, they were hot on our heels back over Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. I could see that they were not quite as hot
on moving on actual scrambling ground.
The solo runner was all over the place.
He asked if I had been here before.
My reply ‘a few time’. He too
decided to follow the slip stream. On
the summit the runners took the lead. I
knew TD gap would cause a bit of a block.
So I upped the pace, poor Anna, hanging in. But it had to be done. The little climb leading up to TD gap, they
paused and that was enough for me to step in front. Looking into the gap, they halted
completely. I reversed and started to
climb down. I told Anna to take a moment
and not rush. Our pair of running
friends gazed down and realised that these to lanky punters were not hanging
about. To be fair we had some friendly
banter with the guys. They were really
nice chaps. But at the top of the gap on
the north side, enough was said and we were off as they were tangled with their
ropes. Moving quickly but cautiously we
covered ground quickly. I was delighted
to top out of Kings Chimney to find a new sling and new DMM Boa. That made my day. Even if I we never finished the ridge, my
find was enough to keep me happy. Gazing
back, no runners to be seen. A quick
bite and off we went. We operated in our
own wee worlds. Clambering up An Stac, I
glanced at my watch. Hmm late morning. Two thoughts entered my head. 1<sup>st</sup>
Finlay is 2/3<sup>rd</sup>s along the ridge now and 2<sup>nd</sup> I bet there will be guided parties all over
the Inn Pinn. Topping out of An Stac, I
was correct. Charging over and
clambering up the long side of the Pinnacle we met a team. They just stood and froze and ushered us past
with some encouragement. Then on top a
guided party shocked at the situation. ‘How
are you going to get down without a rope?’
They seemed rather concerned. But
I was down and onto Sgurr Dearg before they could understand the situation. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-pDNMi7pl1539le3Y0vXrpwy71toRL_27p-kBI_E47zZalOOMJtPD7LXMc8jsUvB6AwXcFv-aZ3GCE7jy8dyI4nkfjX1FshlFTQQYN8wJVsYti7jq8ssmUqjFgDcLFehCuLhpbul-8Ld/s1600/the-cullin_34387728382_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-pDNMi7pl1539le3Y0vXrpwy71toRL_27p-kBI_E47zZalOOMJtPD7LXMc8jsUvB6AwXcFv-aZ3GCE7jy8dyI4nkfjX1FshlFTQQYN8wJVsYti7jq8ssmUqjFgDcLFehCuLhpbul-8Ld/s320/the-cullin_34387728382_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna climbing down the Inn Pinn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Then Anna followed in good style. The long slog up Sgurr na Banachdich, Anna
could feel her lack of sleep from nightshifts catching up. The pace slowed a bit. Finlay is on top of Sgurr Nan Gillean
now. It’s quite funny the whole concept
of traversing The Cullin ridge. I love the fact that everyone has a different experience
on the same ground. Its what makes climbing
and mountaineering so enjoyable. The folk on the Inn Pinn can’t comprehend a
soloist, yet I can’t comprehend Finlay Wild moving twice as quick over this
ground. But we all get satisfaction from
being at our own limits. Bidein Drum Na
Ramh played on my mind. The central peak has some tricky down
climbing. I couldn’t recall much about
it as I have always had a rope. Anyway,
Ghreadaidh, and Mhadaidh passed keeping the mind focused. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQpWLQn-7lOMWfEfDKzQZmaYCtsrO4TLslGn4TVv0evDOMu2e4keI3Ia49W8T6PAFvaJMX2DilrhXgLW4gz5B64fPC4c7cPAuCnerVk2Niffv1fGwDAtr8yv97dDb9_HpNg-pMkIiumMlf/s1600/P1030593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQpWLQn-7lOMWfEfDKzQZmaYCtsrO4TLslGn4TVv0evDOMu2e4keI3Ia49W8T6PAFvaJMX2DilrhXgLW4gz5B64fPC4c7cPAuCnerVk2Niffv1fGwDAtr8yv97dDb9_HpNg-pMkIiumMlf/s320/P1030593.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna on Sgurr Ghrueadaidh</td></tr>
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Arriving at the top of Bidean, I felt a tad
apprehensive. I get psyched out by
guidebooks. I could still visualise the
sentence saying it was hard. We were
down and up onto the north peak without hassle.
Then there was the psychological grinding section from here to Bruach na
Frithe. Anna was encouraging me to go off
and do my own time. But I felt we
started together and come this far, we should finish it together. She seemed concerned she was holding me
back. Not at all, I was just loving
being up there moving over Britains finest ridge. An Castiel, I made the same mistake I always
do and went right then found myself belly shuffling on the perched blocks on
the narrow ledge back round. Bruach na Frithe
ticked, Naismiths was the last climb.
Having never climbed Naismiths, I felt a tad intimidated. Even though I had a few grades in hand, you still
treat it like an E7. Going up first, I felt
the exposure. Not a place to mess
up. Waiting for Anna half way, I talked
her through the moves. She voiced
concern, I felt concerned myself but kept a cool narrative to relax her
fear. She took a breather whilst I
bobbed on up to the top. A tricky mantel
and I felt it was in the bag. Anna
followed and felt relieved to be on top. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFg415J2nE7eoEM-0vFppAM0B18t9trHWCBkE3WiC8JE3S0Grxxv_41lJTsfN-ZieTSil1al3meAuVjoss3wHATK8WwZxzmH3M5Xd9jXFykymfvyumYUWLjwC293F4GhGjkGeMt0ZSXPRw/s1600/the-cullin_34541598005_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFg415J2nE7eoEM-0vFppAM0B18t9trHWCBkE3WiC8JE3S0Grxxv_41lJTsfN-ZieTSil1al3meAuVjoss3wHATK8WwZxzmH3M5Xd9jXFykymfvyumYUWLjwC293F4GhGjkGeMt0ZSXPRw/s320/the-cullin_34541598005_o.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna climbing up 'Naismiths'</td></tr>
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Am Basteir was passed, with a quick social chat with a previous Assistant
Instructor from the Plas y Brennin. Dumping our bags at the col, we just had
Sgurr nan Gillian left. We stuck together
up the chimney and where the Gendarme used to be, then we moved at our own pace
up the final section. Topping out was
cool. Anna caught up. We sat and took a moment to admire the
surroundings. 6hr 34min. Certainly not breaking any records by any
means but respectable for not really knowing how quickly you could do it. The main thing was, we both enjoyed it and
found it satisfying The rat was fed. For Anna, that complements her winter traverse
which she did in a day. I have no FOMO
of that… well a wee bit ;-). Thanks Anna for a superb day out!</div>
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<br />
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So, Skye came up with the goods. Stairway to heaven, Skye Wall and a day
traverse of the Skye ridge. Possibly one of my best trips. I see Caff has added a new E9 Moonrise Kingdom
to Coir Uisg Buttress. Reading the
interview, that sounds a different ball game.
It’0s not quite made it onto my list of routes to do. But maybe in
future years it may be pencilled on. But
at the moment, I’ll play safe. <o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-27581332449102192012017-05-17T02:20:00.000-07:002017-05-17T02:20:21.296-07:00 A bit of trad followed by some old fashioned mountaineering Part 1<div class="MsoNormal">
I must have be swapping hands, swapping sides, shifting body
positions, upping and downing for at least half an hour. The sweat was pouring out, my mouth was dry
and I felt rather puzzled. Holding the
ropes was a young Peter Herd. He was sat
back, strapped in and loving the turmoil I was in. We all know that I like to hang on, but I was
getting a bit bored. Unfortunately I was
just not seeing the sequence. Eventually
I committed…. (About bloody time Pete was thinking!), then I was off. Mouth dry, arms buggerd. I had nothing left to give...not even a quiet Murdoch rage. I was ‘gone’ as Dave Douglas would say. This was my attempt on Surgical Lust E7 6b on
Scimitar Ridge in the Llanberis Pass.
Being a Scot who enjoys moaning about everything, the moan of the day
was it was too hot and sunny. So we
waited all flipping day for the sun to disappear round the corner. Even when it did, I was moaning it was still
too warm. So basically after my late
start on the route, it was almost dark by the time Pete lowered me off. Anyway, those of you who know the topography
of Scimitar Ridge will know it is a total ballache. 2 Laps of the crag to retrieve gear left me
rather toasted. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvBBasEpL7n_z02FDkRRoqPYSbbeRRJ6ZpoxOYMXRk2jA_f8hIbqJ1jf6ActxuNGqjP6F2w4cWWTjbxATWNjA-g0rmgqZyA2b20lHKxG4vk8jfFSWAnmBBAYwU0bpJ3VF3znrOIdzwU65/s1600/3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvBBasEpL7n_z02FDkRRoqPYSbbeRRJ6ZpoxOYMXRk2jA_f8hIbqJ1jf6ActxuNGqjP6F2w4cWWTjbxATWNjA-g0rmgqZyA2b20lHKxG4vk8jfFSWAnmBBAYwU0bpJ3VF3znrOIdzwU65/s320/3.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete on 'Roc Nest - Monster'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09QWiM2k9GCtl3N-SURAWIEC4iDZTffEyREElgJ5BGFdIZF8QTMV4jrMmahO8QmyaQosyWj7ZZqBy3GAdzMoeH4hx8bCb-EHBh9pXI7HPEb5wr3utZx0rKutLZkfColKdjQaVNTDXYNfS/s1600/33148879264_67e89e35f8_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09QWiM2k9GCtl3N-SURAWIEC4iDZTffEyREElgJ5BGFdIZF8QTMV4jrMmahO8QmyaQosyWj7ZZqBy3GAdzMoeH4hx8bCb-EHBh9pXI7HPEb5wr3utZx0rKutLZkfColKdjQaVNTDXYNfS/s320/33148879264_67e89e35f8_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on 'Surgical Lust' (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The Following day was forecast to be overcast, windy and the
threat of rain. Thank god. However, Pete’s luck was out. He got himself involved with Roc Nest - Monster E4 6a as the sun popped out. But, he dispatched
in good style. Thankfully the clouds
returned and it started to rain for my attempt.
At least it was crisp and the friction was good. Just the change in conditions allows the
grumpy Scot to focus and feel alive.
Surgical Lust dispatched with no faff. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF752D9tdHrJW5VaVxNHgEzCpqXPeJF-anOzL1n2Wa_WZrEHKyTj-7q9CJJXaL9Fl03t-g93NcJfEyrKf_5sQImQdkKPvtEBSncaqZ8ashzs684p7fHUTlHz5WP1tGbJq_NjrZtVkXx5io/s1600/4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF752D9tdHrJW5VaVxNHgEzCpqXPeJF-anOzL1n2Wa_WZrEHKyTj-7q9CJJXaL9Fl03t-g93NcJfEyrKf_5sQImQdkKPvtEBSncaqZ8ashzs684p7fHUTlHz5WP1tGbJq_NjrZtVkXx5io/s320/4.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Stack Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
North Stack Wall.
That’s an interesting cliff. I
sent Pete up Blue Peter E4 5c. Mainly
because the route included his name and he had a blue top on. I must admit I felt quite responsible sending
the lad up this serious route; a bit unsure how he would deal with this nature
of climbing. North Stack Wall is a
stressful place. Friable rock and
poor gear, it’s not a place for the faint hearted. Anyway, a steady methodical approach, it was
my turn to feel impatient belaying. However, Pete
topped out glowing. Not bad Gogarth initiation.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyidT1u5snau7phtRitTGWy4wYEY9N_Wwykczt3jtBGHyYYuGp7noLU0Cg_QW4k7_a6ISakq8gHPdSpLOik7zjdRV1t6SUXgo7FWgaktSvF4GbXwG_c19CrlA9fiFrZnF53A_MPl3Ght7g/s1600/5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyidT1u5snau7phtRitTGWy4wYEY9N_Wwykczt3jtBGHyYYuGp7noLU0Cg_QW4k7_a6ISakq8gHPdSpLOik7zjdRV1t6SUXgo7FWgaktSvF4GbXwG_c19CrlA9fiFrZnF53A_MPl3Ght7g/s320/5.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete chilling on 'Blue Peter'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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The Clown E7 6b has remained unticked on my scribbled list
for a few years. It still remains
unticked. I did give it a look but
stuggled to fully commit over the roof.
My feet were even over the roof, I just faced a mental block on each
attempt so made the desperate down climb, grappling the soapy undercuts. The onsight still remains for another
day. The Long run E5 6a, gave an
exciting escape route. I find it quite
interesting the whole trad game. Bouldering
all winter and 10 days in Chulilla with Russell Birkett gives you a load of
strength and fitness. Then you strap a
rack on and switch to fiddling shitty gear in, it’s a different ball game. For me anyway. I must admit, I expected to just to pick up
where I left off last October. However, I was a tad rusty. But, I’m
on it now!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIH9XgmOo3v82-4NiuBzn4k2OldMU7CM4Xq1NMaHq8MQ9ZIdBze8YFH-XPGa4uVBPkzhTRABgsA-ViKLfXPNUwHwYTloVv-OZ82sV_djGQ6ZQhOIyIJNBNS7f72h98Iloe2eTNxxVNgIv/s1600/7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyIH9XgmOo3v82-4NiuBzn4k2OldMU7CM4Xq1NMaHq8MQ9ZIdBze8YFH-XPGa4uVBPkzhTRABgsA-ViKLfXPNUwHwYTloVv-OZ82sV_djGQ6ZQhOIyIJNBNS7f72h98Iloe2eTNxxVNgIv/s320/7.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete following 'The Long Run'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A week in North Wales sends my head into turmoil. To move, or not to move. A week of concentrated trad climbing just
reminded me of its ease of access and quality.
But, it’s not Scotland. No doubt
I’ll be back down later in the year to redeem myself on North Stack Wall. <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbtZJeoy9uJ4VeH-qpSi9Z4skoAnTK9Uy40Lt2TERQHBFOiyDllbJoC-2aPEXKU6zX-LQIb8HqH-GiC0VROIpOjAY2_f4TlWXCYhdom1VJNwctVwBiUGQJE2Z5XmhTsTP_8LPZ7NCr1ZTn/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbtZJeoy9uJ4VeH-qpSi9Z4skoAnTK9Uy40Lt2TERQHBFOiyDllbJoC-2aPEXKU6zX-LQIb8HqH-GiC0VROIpOjAY2_f4TlWXCYhdom1VJNwctVwBiUGQJE2Z5XmhTsTP_8LPZ7NCr1ZTn/s320/1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Pete on 'Comes the Dervish'</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfADT_LYVtHc3vZYG2OpwvzYzCB768IPQM8B2IB4HTPqHKC6ZCuG0nX00kkZ6ANqkvH_4gIOLK-9FVbb4993d74c9RKN5LxVc4F_qVw-N04zwcmY0HyU-QVMD1mNUmdHugvOWjJSTn3ZF/s1600/33950971416_cb9284ff78_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfADT_LYVtHc3vZYG2OpwvzYzCB768IPQM8B2IB4HTPqHKC6ZCuG0nX00kkZ6ANqkvH_4gIOLK-9FVbb4993d74c9RKN5LxVc4F_qVw-N04zwcmY0HyU-QVMD1mNUmdHugvOWjJSTn3ZF/s320/33950971416_cb9284ff78_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the 'Flashdance/Belldance combo' (Photo:Peter Herd)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Retuning home after a week of fine weather, I was shocked to
be knee deep in snow on Ben Stack one evening after work. A shit winter which has decided to prolong
itself was becoming a bit frustrating.
Back to the boulders, wall and hill runs for me. Walking from my car to
the office door one day was not dissimilar to setting off into the Northern
Corries from the Cas car park. In fact,
how would I know, I would get out the car! A week later, I found myself messing
around on a bone dry Cullin Ridge in a T-shirt.
Scotland, you got to love it!
Spring high pressure pushed in with an easterly airflow. The west coast of Scotland becomes the most
wanted place to be on the planet. Skye
seemed to be the fashionable place to be, so off I went!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVk94sLIemCzgG_l9eYTd3t4uPz-sNA9a1iKxNplT9IGv1MNLGMw9_QBgRcmDW-vzuz_OVtPEKKiuhJov3b_7obN6Kw7V_hUd6saBiKFbCO5WBGEJokv9Fl-GEhjQJe-yNU3cZ8EW1kU8/s1600/20170508_100950_34500079566_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="72" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVk94sLIemCzgG_l9eYTd3t4uPz-sNA9a1iKxNplT9IGv1MNLGMw9_QBgRcmDW-vzuz_OVtPEKKiuhJov3b_7obN6Kw7V_hUd6saBiKFbCO5WBGEJokv9Fl-GEhjQJe-yNU3cZ8EW1kU8/s320/20170508_100950_34500079566_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cullin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Part 2 is written, but I need to keep my 4 week delay in publishing.<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-42223622860635022972017-03-13T06:48:00.000-07:002017-03-13T09:22:02.853-07:00Wrapping the (what?) winter up.<div class="MsoNormal">
There was no wading about knee deep in a bog this time. Just rain in the face and sweat. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’m sure we are all aware that this winter has been rather
challenging in terms of winter conditions.
To be fair, motivated folk have who have bothered their backside have
got stuff done. Dave Kerr springs to
mind. Good effort! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Looking back at the last few weeks, all I can see is the odd
winter day grabbed amongst great days on rock, or many days bouldering
inside. However in reflection, this
winter has been pretty good if you relax a bit about the 'winter conditions' and turn your
attention to other aspects of climbing. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAO2OYg3naPRtV3oqYsshyXRbdQ-iV-PN_3JW68_dJsiLLO5Idv-YLpY255q2qDRsccjjlKdIDShl0hnVCVZXX4jsciUsTqqeqLl5pD1bH6qFD5lkpBerm7Yw0ilxzR9ugTpRuXFoAeiGl/s1600/DSCN6105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAO2OYg3naPRtV3oqYsshyXRbdQ-iV-PN_3JW68_dJsiLLO5Idv-YLpY255q2qDRsccjjlKdIDShl0hnVCVZXX4jsciUsTqqeqLl5pD1bH6qFD5lkpBerm7Yw0ilxzR9ugTpRuXFoAeiGl/s320/DSCN6105.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Am Fasgadh, Pete messing about on 'Pillar Up' and Mhairi on 'Curving Crack'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-QBEfFVWV3M4DJqc4-mSckU6CDCfedzt3NAkkwSSlNktfXOqNKyaCBA987Btx8I6FTvvQEGVV8gOrp65p0isJ6XFEJqMzdXCjw-1GJiBfHSxCvycpBaZIb7880UKTyAg46yWu75jS2Tw2/s1600/P1030441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-QBEfFVWV3M4DJqc4-mSckU6CDCfedzt3NAkkwSSlNktfXOqNKyaCBA987Btx8I6FTvvQEGVV8gOrp65p0isJ6XFEJqMzdXCjw-1GJiBfHSxCvycpBaZIb7880UKTyAg46yWu75jS2Tw2/s320/P1030441.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Am Fasgadh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NMNIpbdgIkVAFjNC9kItTM88b-3Mw3TaDeuEKM3zTu0ohclAzt9lyrb6H-0N6B0nrQPCCR_eD4PqiV0PvzNW9HiTYCsO9tjolS8bm6dAS6lAepyR8KHrP6EPUpYVsdgfwpjLlKXExmLk/s1600/DSCN6115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NMNIpbdgIkVAFjNC9kItTM88b-3Mw3TaDeuEKM3zTu0ohclAzt9lyrb6H-0N6B0nrQPCCR_eD4PqiV0PvzNW9HiTYCsO9tjolS8bm6dAS6lAepyR8KHrP6EPUpYVsdgfwpjLlKXExmLk/s320/DSCN6115.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi on 'Worry Bomb'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3jzzFXqH5C42ZYUXwnrIE8XvsEZ_2jZa5qyrg-OfsrC6g55uKvuDE2s4Ll2T1kONq_qpRZX7qX0OQe2BogcgWMZ08QiIMAZ21aU_VK8ItCoT4YAal18eEoLg0JyRVhKGKa7tLxcLob5JB/s1600/DSCN6111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3jzzFXqH5C42ZYUXwnrIE8XvsEZ_2jZa5qyrg-OfsrC6g55uKvuDE2s4Ll2T1kONq_qpRZX7qX0OQe2BogcgWMZ08QiIMAZ21aU_VK8ItCoT4YAal18eEoLg0JyRVhKGKa7tLxcLob5JB/s320/DSCN6111.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaz on 'High Five'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTZJ-m4qE2j3RD-BKseUuqifQTJ4fav3WCcOJpap1cyC5BTxZ06CNODIJb6V7aEiEVTs_KFKJpdhWboUtKDVJxlQIyMj_5xRBju32GUZTewmHLrp1R-1aFoSkKD-qO_8hceGeBJaB76LN/s1600/DSCN6119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTZJ-m4qE2j3RD-BKseUuqifQTJ4fav3WCcOJpap1cyC5BTxZ06CNODIJb6V7aEiEVTs_KFKJpdhWboUtKDVJxlQIyMj_5xRBju32GUZTewmHLrp1R-1aFoSkKD-qO_8hceGeBJaB76LN/s320/DSCN6119.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maol Chean Dreag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
For several years now I have been keen to climb ‘The
Knuckleduster VIII,9’ on Ben Nevis. I
also know Iain Small has been keen as well.
However, between us and other partners, there has been problems with actually
getting on it. Mainly due to other
international teams starting up it! However the 1<sup>st </sup>March, the stars aligned and no other bugger was there. We opted to climb the direct version,
originally climbed by Greg and Guy. This
provided some great physical pumpy climbing.
I must admit, surmounting the roof, I felt slightly intimidated as I
reminded myself of Gregs blog. However, when you are actually there, you get on
and deal with the situation which I’m sure many of us have experienced. However, the conditions we had were friendly snowed up rock. The Knuckleduster was a very satisfying climb
due to both the climbing quality and the strong line it takes. I highly recommend
to others operating at that level. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_kU0oHpBIwvWUDxoW0BkOZEvayJ-M7r5IVYo2KGVxrhkirX-53aK0k1mA0vmx9bxhE2IMAGSIGMZB1WWSJpUU-EIzXrERRPoBcrbKmbej3fHb587iM8M6Cdoqq4f8XgCLkgkC721Jr7y/s1600/P1030403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_kU0oHpBIwvWUDxoW0BkOZEvayJ-M7r5IVYo2KGVxrhkirX-53aK0k1mA0vmx9bxhE2IMAGSIGMZB1WWSJpUU-EIzXrERRPoBcrbKmbej3fHb587iM8M6Cdoqq4f8XgCLkgkC721Jr7y/s320/P1030403.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 1 of 'Knuckleduster'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxoQVb0YZ97gq8TBEUIthcaL-wOnjIA7s0XjrzW2BD8Uhnj9gaDZGxjgvW6M-Ax4ukGvDJ81ihKO1_Jz2df34GUfHsE1w2-QYsogSyJyWcGxvnVsAqu94laS0Kri0yqdsUI6J4yWe2xukj/s1600/P1050416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxoQVb0YZ97gq8TBEUIthcaL-wOnjIA7s0XjrzW2BD8Uhnj9gaDZGxjgvW6M-Ax4ukGvDJ81ihKO1_Jz2df34GUfHsE1w2-QYsogSyJyWcGxvnVsAqu94laS0Kri0yqdsUI6J4yWe2xukj/s320/P1050416.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me following pitch 1 (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6FshAjzf6DLza87Ha8ND6kViv7U8yJUG4ALs-7lQE1XH0fp4D991V8GhsxS8LEUV4jN7iUhugf6OFopR-vCWNtrQNbdFEzx4umwfIDaDZrD3PL-KZtcXI-suxioIm9NPhf2_VugCF954/s1600/P1050421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6FshAjzf6DLza87Ha8ND6kViv7U8yJUG4ALs-7lQE1XH0fp4D991V8GhsxS8LEUV4jN7iUhugf6OFopR-vCWNtrQNbdFEzx4umwfIDaDZrD3PL-KZtcXI-suxioIm9NPhf2_VugCF954/s320/P1050421.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 2 (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIWNdLvUCyhnNIsU_EVmOUV0FjY5nYxx5jH-j687bUagij5epzU0VlbvCnhY_O22sLJS8kbZ76iN0XtLbQmI4WJY8c3YMHgDu6pemcdM3qD1c1hPkDGyMI-yfZCQiQcj9EUttFOLB1XhG/s1600/P1030417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIWNdLvUCyhnNIsU_EVmOUV0FjY5nYxx5jH-j687bUagij5epzU0VlbvCnhY_O22sLJS8kbZ76iN0XtLbQmI4WJY8c3YMHgDu6pemcdM3qD1c1hPkDGyMI-yfZCQiQcj9EUttFOLB1XhG/s320/P1030417.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain following pitch 2.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As always Am Fasgadh has provided some good winter rock
action. With a looming sport climbing
trip to Chulilla, I felt the need to tie on, do some laps or follow some new
link ups. Ian Taylor as always has kept
his eye in on gaps and created The Omega Link F7b+.
A good edition. The next logical
thing (very very dull reading for everyone bar locals here, I’m sorry) was to
establish the Mega Pup F7c+. This
provided a good elbow touch the sky workout and a stressful clip. I thought sport climbing was safe?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCrpmPyiHoiLCNOFDHw12cD86l-uh2Fn7h5wZ5kW9Fu2dbrb-5EofaIDVDs7SW6CLZzVhfWJL1AAP0XbYxMnk7Zl0BMwxKdfJy0XRavd-S4K061AWpzisftnBN_kqDKP7BfOTTKIviZKs_/s1600/32845347965_86404e0dc2_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCrpmPyiHoiLCNOFDHw12cD86l-uh2Fn7h5wZ5kW9Fu2dbrb-5EofaIDVDs7SW6CLZzVhfWJL1AAP0XbYxMnk7Zl0BMwxKdfJy0XRavd-S4K061AWpzisftnBN_kqDKP7BfOTTKIviZKs_/s320/32845347965_86404e0dc2_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on 'The Omega Link' (Photo: Ian Taylor)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Knowing I was just about to fly away to Spain, one last winter
day out on Beinn Eighe wasn’t a bad idea.
However, the weather was far from ideal (for me at least). A walk up in rain was a bit crap. At least we reached a point it turned to snow
which made the painful experience a bit better.
Gearing up in the ming on top, the idea of a committing rap into West Central Gully was abandoned. We settled
for a shorter day on Samurai VII,7. This was recommended
to me by Dave Kerr and French Erik. A
great route providing quality sustained climbing the whole way. I must admit, there was the odd moment I ‘wasn’t
feeling the love’. Walking out, we
reversed the walk in where the snow turned to rain on decent. But it was a great day out in the end. I haven’t been soaked to the skin in a while. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gmOVlrnaixPmJtVzLi5wYjNDx25_3gLLfOxpv1AfHqpdu6xQVL8rfjYtFKdg6ZJF5dsxrwBTvt7GrKaMeQaiU0vo68R6RKnTbnflTR1yp5UfqHoQiTOIrqZ8_DcjyyDPGwp8nRpyreoV/s1600/P1050430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gmOVlrnaixPmJtVzLi5wYjNDx25_3gLLfOxpv1AfHqpdu6xQVL8rfjYtFKdg6ZJF5dsxrwBTvt7GrKaMeQaiU0vo68R6RKnTbnflTR1yp5UfqHoQiTOIrqZ8_DcjyyDPGwp8nRpyreoV/s320/P1050430.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Pitch 1 of 'Samurai' (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWl9qbMCFE9PJt7Igt8zhXom6e85p0NvLzHQrXDH6YmS6JZsjrvwvN4mt2eKIhROuyyKQ_wDEkCI-KiS88PekIn6fNrKWPNN5GIpqCz1rklD4iptWTo07sSb_2OY2iF_QcG9x-kJzBAZrm/s1600/P1030432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWl9qbMCFE9PJt7Igt8zhXom6e85p0NvLzHQrXDH6YmS6JZsjrvwvN4mt2eKIhROuyyKQ_wDEkCI-KiS88PekIn6fNrKWPNN5GIpqCz1rklD4iptWTo07sSb_2OY2iF_QcG9x-kJzBAZrm/s320/P1030432.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 3.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCehvY7GJW-vQlY7NojbSWvl7GCyFZHN7uunacoGCK-eJU6RW5Rn2eoL_E8pTVFWD7BEQfbXytaai1M72hHKjFl4yEB2YNkIbEgl3uaWz38iFXese9lUVT0EUhlLqSG9a_jVLj8ryDjuu/s1600/P1050435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCehvY7GJW-vQlY7NojbSWvl7GCyFZHN7uunacoGCK-eJU6RW5Rn2eoL_E8pTVFWD7BEQfbXytaai1M72hHKjFl4yEB2YNkIbEgl3uaWz38iFXese9lUVT0EUhlLqSG9a_jVLj8ryDjuu/s320/P1050435.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 4. (Photo:Iain Small)</td></tr>
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I am in Chulilla at the moment with Russell Birkett. It’s bloody raining outside. Packing
my bag on Friday was depressing with this weeks forecast to be wall to wall
rain. However, upon arrival, it is only
to be wet today. Thank god! Yesterday was
great, a shock to the arms. Clearly bouldering all winter or 12 move sport routes was not ideal
for 40 metre sport routes.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVbyS3iGqWRnQmRleLjLJ4YLwZHXN0XDT8w-iy71Y5BELqcPW0ivZlewu1okwmCstRpYSXrcHhpWeolqGhlCVkQZANDeOcslI8i-yiRUGDzHEu_DUWE7KzS4qn2jwuhBqaTG4sjq9lK1E/s1600/P1030454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVbyS3iGqWRnQmRleLjLJ4YLwZHXN0XDT8w-iy71Y5BELqcPW0ivZlewu1okwmCstRpYSXrcHhpWeolqGhlCVkQZANDeOcslI8i-yiRUGDzHEu_DUWE7KzS4qn2jwuhBqaTG4sjq9lK1E/s320/P1030454.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walls of Chulilla basking in the evening sun light.</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-77765639981481930332017-02-03T14:34:00.002-08:002017-02-03T14:34:30.339-08:00Scottish Winter Climbing at its finest<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s dark, it’s cold and I am floundering around in a
bog. The weight of my winter bag pushing
me down as I flail desperately to swim ashore.
Andy looked away and never said anything. If it was me, I would have been buckling with
laughter inside. But I like to think
Andy is too polite for that and was thinking ‘poor Murdoch’. My right leg, and both arms took the
brunt. Standing on dry land again with a soaking leg and a swamp filled boot, I must admit, I’ve had finer moment on
winter walk ins.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Gearing up at the top of Beinn Eighe, Andy made the comment,
‘I’m surprised you carried on, I would have turned back’. My jaw hit the
ground. I could have quite easily turned
round and gone back to the home for a more civilised breakfast. The name ‘West Central Gully’ sends shivers
my spine when I am feeling relaxed. That
venue seemed an even more chilling prospect given the circumstances. We agreed on a nice easy quick day on Eastern
Ramparts to salvage the day. That idea
was quickly thrown out the window when parts of the imposing Far East Wall
looked pretty wintery. <o:p></o:p></div>
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‘Just use steinpuls.
Put your tools in upside down, high feet and go’ was Andy’s comment as I
looked at the big off width roof crack on ‘Crazy Eyes’. Bugger that!
I’m not a new modern dry tooler with all these fancy techniques. I’m old fashioned and like edge to hook. So I stuck with my guns and eventually committed
to a desperate sequence of matching this match stick edge, then locking deep
with my left whilst making a huge span with my right to a flatty on the arête. Mean while your feet are on next to
nothing. Managing to then get my right
mono point onto a little ledge on the arête, I matched the flatty with my left
tool leaving my left foot braced against the wall. At the original grade of VII,9 which Will and Olav suggested, I was
expecting a sinker hook, bomber wire or something positive. There was nothing. Eyeballing the gear at the back of the roof,
shouting to Andy telling him was pumped, searching for more gear, I felt rather
committed. Fuck! I managed to tap in a
token rock 3 on my right, but that wasn’t enough to stop me flapping. I certainly wasn’t reversing those move. The only way out of this was to carry
on. So a few pulls later on some what felt marginal hooks, I eventually got my left knee jammed in the offwidth. Feeling a bit more secure, I caught my
breath. I figured once my foot was
there, I would relax a bit. A bit more
faffing, scrabbling, I eventually wedged my foot in. Thanks God!
Managing to reach deep in the offwidth I managed to place another token wallnut
2. Jeepers! I’ll spare you the rest….
I eventually got myself wedged into the crack higher and placed a bomber Size 4
dragon. All that was left to do was a grovely
offwidth to the belay. As much as it was
a ballache, it was secure. I collapsed
at the belay. My previous weekend flu
bug was still lurking. Obviously Andy
followed with no issues, lead on through
and made light work of the strenuous exit roofs. Good man. I think VIII,9 is more appropriate...<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73_Fnnhg3ROBuuW0gc1PS4fSZOID6AK6GAqR5ZygfBYLCmNl_o_7_Lxow85pRIfGkOL6GMsRZTzzB6DBgiNtIvEwEioVn64A4ueRPEBIk15z6NWeDNQY4Wh69HMQ3r8YigNOhOMAMTFQx/s1600/DSC02832+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj73_Fnnhg3ROBuuW0gc1PS4fSZOID6AK6GAqR5ZygfBYLCmNl_o_7_Lxow85pRIfGkOL6GMsRZTzzB6DBgiNtIvEwEioVn64A4ueRPEBIk15z6NWeDNQY4Wh69HMQ3r8YigNOhOMAMTFQx/s320/DSC02832+%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me feeling flustered (Photo: Andy Inglis)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRNpEzd7B2AbQcQ-4xQinAbuhOIdVTq_eFl2UUPt2mNezeRrUjhKBW3LOASw1Bo-8S1mocHs0haSFGwfjbiZtdz5qcrN3MD_DYAxvES39IdpN3AalD3ZvSJauKxFfw49knRPSeCQEldKEc/s1600/P1030297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRNpEzd7B2AbQcQ-4xQinAbuhOIdVTq_eFl2UUPt2mNezeRrUjhKBW3LOASw1Bo-8S1mocHs0haSFGwfjbiZtdz5qcrN3MD_DYAxvES39IdpN3AalD3ZvSJauKxFfw49knRPSeCQEldKEc/s320/P1030297.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy following pitch 1.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFwQWT5ffXy6_4kfuM7QCWOXcAYu86vLS0CSpCo7mGswzgWcG1852ydoD00s8NXWCD99eeZ3dj65d6tWfqds8rqr1UObUIDZMdFk67hnZVeHppBEOOkhXeO05t-0-0Q0i5tKABkEPGE9b/s1600/P1030308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFwQWT5ffXy6_4kfuM7QCWOXcAYu86vLS0CSpCo7mGswzgWcG1852ydoD00s8NXWCD99eeZ3dj65d6tWfqds8rqr1UObUIDZMdFk67hnZVeHppBEOOkhXeO05t-0-0Q0i5tKABkEPGE9b/s320/P1030308.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy squirming his way up the offwidth.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-X_dWzDvLmYH7ASlknwq0IuVzev9yiqLnYA5ClPdja9IZNCzhtdgjFoEYjiFq4D928XETyQ-bXUACf0f9gNOeRsESLGez-LGCX3zpXXEVgr5NDzf8v31sdctgwAb8euDNu5SZ7wkCXqk/s1600/P1030316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-X_dWzDvLmYH7ASlknwq0IuVzev9yiqLnYA5ClPdja9IZNCzhtdgjFoEYjiFq4D928XETyQ-bXUACf0f9gNOeRsESLGez-LGCX3zpXXEVgr5NDzf8v31sdctgwAb8euDNu5SZ7wkCXqk/s320/P1030316.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy on pitch 3</td></tr>
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Since that day, the winter just disappeared. Much to a most winter climbers dislike, I was
quite happy and turned my attention to the bone dry crags and boulders. A few days at Brin, a day at Am Fasgadh confirmed the arms were still working and
some local bouldering, I have no complaints.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcaQJJ96lTbclTRO_gUp1l_WgD5UeOYk1EevBspcefgs_nWHEiinL0K0Kh3gfS_WLq9O204kCbN4Q3z5xJr2R9Mio00vXWJUdbgqd9h5W2aCESQs3IPh73UeKJD8BeMbAz7GB5jEqy84P/s1600/P1030326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcaQJJ96lTbclTRO_gUp1l_WgD5UeOYk1EevBspcefgs_nWHEiinL0K0Kh3gfS_WLq9O204kCbN4Q3z5xJr2R9Mio00vXWJUdbgqd9h5W2aCESQs3IPh73UeKJD8BeMbAz7GB5jEqy84P/s320/P1030326.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi on 'Pink Wall'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0p5eurFbj-x3gyj1U_1y8NRsiSpx7TSRbVQjI1MIMcBx4yS2pggiem2_IWSqUxMRFDYZ2uVK84ngKQJydup4IL7Rhbk-JIptBtZJ_qvWXAmjLST-wk2mZfQd1KePuje5k5-12Bi-fngy/s1600/31633407133_2afea6a24e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0p5eurFbj-x3gyj1U_1y8NRsiSpx7TSRbVQjI1MIMcBx4yS2pggiem2_IWSqUxMRFDYZ2uVK84ngKQJydup4IL7Rhbk-JIptBtZJ_qvWXAmjLST-wk2mZfQd1KePuje5k5-12Bi-fngy/s320/31633407133_2afea6a24e_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me reflecting the sun on 'Worry Bomb' (Photo: Richie Betts)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChXy7VxopB2cmmKcLD8i8XrnriXEhfWb4XGSheFQakwEvXTt7-VnVQS1sRb24Qj-5GxznsM67IKj3juXjXMh47pg5KZ-NvaZo77qLfqs6U0Cg9sQ6l5QpXBiu7CK5hoqrtv7PPplYWTXP/s1600/P1030337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChXy7VxopB2cmmKcLD8i8XrnriXEhfWb4XGSheFQakwEvXTt7-VnVQS1sRb24Qj-5GxznsM67IKj3juXjXMh47pg5KZ-NvaZo77qLfqs6U0Cg9sQ6l5QpXBiu7CK5hoqrtv7PPplYWTXP/s320/P1030337.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete opening his account on Malcs</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYlwlGagLMALzzQSaqvC3YtCUK48dAyOxlCJZgdL245ssfANfwTl2Tci-_g9mZYW0NutIIGj4gu7Pt2YXEP189o_-ZB_KWy1zez6cMkmodIdYDhFq4lgR6zfyM5w9CUt6_UTPcX58vd67/s1600/P1030358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYlwlGagLMALzzQSaqvC3YtCUK48dAyOxlCJZgdL245ssfANfwTl2Tci-_g9mZYW0NutIIGj4gu7Pt2YXEP189o_-ZB_KWy1zez6cMkmodIdYDhFq4lgR6zfyM5w9CUt6_UTPcX58vd67/s320/P1030358.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grade discusson</td></tr>
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7 years ago I had a go at Malcs arête Font 7B. I remember it well, a crisp autumn day. Richie Betts had just established ‘The
Mission Font 7B’ a few weeks before. He was
psyched for me to have a go. But, I was
more interested in Malcs as it suited me.
It was steep, good holds and I was slapping the top of the boulder. Not succeeding, I turned my attention to the
thin technical face of ‘The Mission’. I’m
not sure what happened but I managed to somehow do it. Something way out my league at the time. So back on Malcs, but no success. Since then, every bloody year I have tried
Malcs Arete. Slapping the top 95% of the
time. On one occasion I rolled my
ankle. Since that attempt I developed a
mental block. In the intervening time, I
kept bouldering and ticking problems of similar grade or harder. I even managed ‘The Essence Font 7B+’ and that’s high! (well for me!). </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYy3WKLzFx7oqGk_Z7XNa4jIjaVPEDx4jzQT2AaIvLiLDydMqviM3fW7NXpCmReGm5AciyF8RATW4IoCRuvoqml4xfleRLcx8NWMQfKUexP7FulCdKbmEkxiEvEJsDAcO4cYQ7krXnmSsn/s1600/5065442366_c385a29274_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYy3WKLzFx7oqGk_Z7XNa4jIjaVPEDx4jzQT2AaIvLiLDydMqviM3fW7NXpCmReGm5AciyF8RATW4IoCRuvoqml4xfleRLcx8NWMQfKUexP7FulCdKbmEkxiEvEJsDAcO4cYQ7krXnmSsn/s320/5065442366_c385a29274_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rich on his King Line, 'The Essence' (Photo: Rich Betts Collection)</td></tr>
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I must admit, I got to the point that I just couldn’t
be arsed with it anymore. I could see
myself ticking Phoenix Nights before Malcs.
Last Friday was another mint winters day in the Glen. Pottering around by myself up the hillside
enjoying the solitude, I switched to hang out with a highly energetic Lawrence
who trying Otters Wall. This I like,
but graded 7C+, it was out my league.
But I got on it. Somehow, I
managed to top out of this problem. I
think the grading is a bit off! Walking
back to the cars, the light was fading.
Walking past Malcs, I couldn’t be arsed.
Walking on I stopped, turned and thought ‘fuck it, I better give it a burn'.
There was the usual mumbles and grumbles from the observing crowd… its just another
go. But somehow, I latched the top. Shit!
After I managed to control my hyperventilating, I manged to top this. Phew!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNChgcbBdkkYmVVxHO4nQ-Qsjk2pBRKMmnBaayTWpVFJhImrGjqPk2UgjLMsKvzhr6JHfbtuDjTRigtKWsZ6ufR3mJFqPivCmBMHNB6dwbWKpEqK2MQn11dTu10TUvPtxs6BEjGYqL20wY/s1600/P1030354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNChgcbBdkkYmVVxHO4nQ-Qsjk2pBRKMmnBaayTWpVFJhImrGjqPk2UgjLMsKvzhr6JHfbtuDjTRigtKWsZ6ufR3mJFqPivCmBMHNB6dwbWKpEqK2MQn11dTu10TUvPtxs6BEjGYqL20wY/s320/P1030354.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lawrence on 'Otter's Wall'</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tactics in keeping holds in the shade.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjwoPdUB8YWUl4SZ0B3396QfpMCkisZxSrhVf5HWEAZ5EzA77TzXaM1Cd95AWh8FGtPSQjnrJQ8hyphenhyphenyPSTUzYNI5us_am-z5CX7c3PxBuZ6Q-zjHVF4yP1zhyphenhyphenJFw-sf0a6n4MVeU5xizHs/s1600/15389669599_04bbc079bf_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjwoPdUB8YWUl4SZ0B3396QfpMCkisZxSrhVf5HWEAZ5EzA77TzXaM1Cd95AWh8FGtPSQjnrJQ8hyphenhyphenyPSTUzYNI5us_am-z5CX7c3PxBuZ6Q-zjHVF4yP1zhyphenhyphenJFw-sf0a6n4MVeU5xizHs/s320/15389669599_04bbc079bf_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">,,,For years i've done this! (Photo: Anne Falconer)</td></tr>
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An end of an era.</div>
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Winter returned, Iain, Andy and I had a day on the Ben. Not my finest winter day. My journey there was rubbish and we caused
some rock fall which was crap. It’s knocked
my mojo a wee bit. Anyway, the sun was
out today and despite the chilling wind, it was a stunning day which I enjoyed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I see its getting colder.
I’m split for Sunday. Torridon
Boulders, or Scratching Granite?<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-23562589838754029502017-01-10T09:19:00.001-08:002017-01-10T09:19:09.103-08:00Avoiding a second lashing from The Vicar<div class="MsoNormal">
As much as everyone is grumbling about this poor winter, I’m actually loving it. I am facing my weakness of bouldering head on and am now actually making the odd dynamic move. In saying that, I did in fact wet myself (you may wish to refer to my last blog post ending) on January 2<sup>nd</sup> 2017. Whilst Ben Nevis remained black, the Cairngorms were blasted from a Northerly which resulted in the crags being plastered. <o:p></o:p></div>
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So my good friend Guy Steven and I ventured into Corie an Lochan to see what was happening. Well, it was certainly wintry and it was certainly cold. We opted for ‘Hookers Corner VI,6’ which was ‘good fun’. It took me a day to thaw out.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Guy near the top of 'Hooker's Corner VI,6'</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on pitch 2 of 'Hookers Corner' (Well technically Hoarmaster top pitch) (Photo: Guy Steven)</td></tr>
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Of course on Tuesday the temperature had to go up to 12 deg Celsius with rain at all levels. But in keeping with this winters theme, the temperature plummeted again Tuesday night. Having my doubts that Wednesday would be any good, I sacked it off. But, I packed my bag just in case I changed my mind. 8 pm on Tuesday night, I thought I might as well go with Guy and at least have a walk with a heavy bag. The FOMO would have killed me if it was good. Well, bugger me, into the approach to the corie, it was actually looking quite wintry. However, the product from all these temperature fluctuations was a nice coating of verglas. Anyway, it wasn’t as windy so we decided to have a look at ‘The Vicar VII,8’. Now, this route has haunted me for the last 5 years. I could write a whole blog post on why, but I’m not, I’ll give a summary. Please refer to<a href="http://scottishclimbers.blogspot.com/2012/01/vicars-apprentice-in-white-chapel.html"> Jim Higgins blog</a> as he wrote a great account at the time. Since that day, I have climbed numerous winter routes of similar standard or harder. My memory of it was getting onto the little ledge by the arête was tricky, then standing on the ledge, I was unable to commit to the arête. It looked mental. Admittedly the weather that day was pish so that never helped a tired unwell Murdoch. So I bailed left into 'Nocando Crack' so I never felt that I completed to route properly. </div>
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So Guy nicely dispatched the first pitch. We used the new direct pitch that Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell and Pete Macpherson used for 'Siberian Tiger'. I’m sure it’s well known but I would like to re emphasise that it is a superb pitch and well worth doing. Arriving at the belay, Guy was quite happily strapped in and reminded me that he has done his bit. Dick. I did voice concern about how icy it was. I think I also mentioned that this was a stupid route choice for today. But I only have myself to blame for that. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Guy breaking onto the wall on Pitch 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Guy on pitch 1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihivKhAA87Lfbv4_US-u0yI3KXZFv_fs8NlH4yy8Jj-9mwgGMu9s1c16X3q9UAgcX8CJug3Gp6Z8E7Po1a15JDypX8DpCD0qnRfz4oj1QkFu6g17IDYjpj3HHpBnlkjSvsFj_nRXreLaE5/s1600/P1030267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihivKhAA87Lfbv4_US-u0yI3KXZFv_fs8NlH4yy8Jj-9mwgGMu9s1c16X3q9UAgcX8CJug3Gp6Z8E7Po1a15JDypX8DpCD0qnRfz4oj1QkFu6g17IDYjpj3HHpBnlkjSvsFj_nRXreLaE5/s320/P1030267.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Guy still on pitch 1.</td></tr>
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So, I try and leave the belay ledge. Normally there is would be some ‘up and downing’ going on. Not today. Just standing unable to move up. Eventually I found a placement and a way I went. Happy, not really. But as many of you know, you become absorbed into the climbing. Once I moved onto the ‘wall cracks’ I was a bit more in the flow. Gear was hard work but satisfying when secured. I found myself making the tricky moves onto the little ledge. Not as bad as I recall. By this point you are a fair bit out from the last good runner. I gazed left at the Nocando Flake. It looked so tempting. But I couldn’t. So, you clip a shitty peg, tap in a size 1 wire which only went half in and a pecker in a shitty icy crack which looked more pretty than useful. I looked up at the arête above and thought ‘for fuck sake’. Clearing off the hoar, I was still thinking the same. There seemed nothing obvious to pull down on. It’s all just rounded and sloping. Eventually I made a move up and my right tool was on something good. Making another move, the next minute both feet popped (poor technique, I know) and I’m hanging straight armed on just my right tool. Shit! I twist and eyeballed the corie floor between my legs. The ropes were waving in the wind, my last bits of kit were not the bomber wires I previously had and I couldn't be arsed anymore. So I managed to untwist match my left tool on the placement that was obviously good, haul myself up, get my right foot on a ledge by my face and began to mantle up. Searching desperately for something with my left tool, I found nothing. Just bald slabs glazed in verglas. It was precarious one legged stand up. Eventually I could stand comfortably and took a moment. Above lay a sea of stepped glazed slabs separated by tricky mantles. Obviously there is no gear and Guy was out of sight so I was on my own now. Eventually turfy ground was met which took me to the top. Phew. Certainly not ground breaking news, or setting new standards in winter by any means. But, a great experience on a great route. Well, I think it is anyway. So in the end, after 5 years, those demons of mine have been laid to rest. It wasn’t nearly as hard as I remembered it, but certainly an Icy Vicar was testing in places. To the modern climber, its fine. Hats off to Greame Ettle who did the first ascent of this pitch this 'back in the day' with his fancy dual points, straight shafted tools with leashes and a rucksack I believe?!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Me on pitch 2. (Photo: Guy Steven)</td></tr>
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Of course, it thawed out again and I was back prepping for rock 2017. I thought I would finish the week of with a cheeky run up An Caber on Ben Wyvis. Normally I can run the start then brought to a fast walk. This time I could barely run to the starting gate from the car park and felt knackered. Ok, let’s just walk to the big boulder then… I talked myself in going to the top of the hill. My slowest time ever. I woke the next day in a world of pain and shivers, followed by a night of sweating buckets of sweat. The following few days were toned down versions. The rug has been pulled from beneath my feet and I have been floored for once. It certainly reminded me the value of good health. Resurfacing today has been gold.</div>
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Roll on spring, I want some French Sport crags<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">St Leger</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-20327175665857533252016-12-18T13:21:00.002-08:002016-12-18T13:21:59.882-08:00Winter?<br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Arching my back, straining my neck, I could see Pete in the
upper part of the continuation chimney of ‘The Hoarmaster (VI,6)’. As he waves
back to say he is all right, I’m shouting ‘Hurry the fuck up’ deep from inside
my belay jacket.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">But unfortunately he
never heard me.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Standing on the belay
ledge, I stared at the pinnacle which is home to ‘The Gathering’ and ‘Pick in
Mix’. </span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">They were absolutely buried in
rime.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Despite having climbed them both,
I was struggling to work out exactly where they went.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">They were certainly ‘in condition’ but I
suspect significantly more challenging in their current state.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">A few weeks later I saw the winter UKC forums
kicked off with the usual ‘whats acceptable’.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">It made for entertaining/dull travel reading to Chulilla. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKulLfpn92-x3k2hrGh9soEqVyOpgXBsKpPtWCiEzhh179poLLaI5V-daqZca-etvy8QEQyN8K6vn1v4OKH6MTZbpozKTu71ITe_lTnrIP4-cEAEwBRApkaqTr44gu7S7ZjW5dl0ma9inX/s1600/30617147600_b54fb01948_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKulLfpn92-x3k2hrGh9soEqVyOpgXBsKpPtWCiEzhh179poLLaI5V-daqZca-etvy8QEQyN8K6vn1v4OKH6MTZbpozKTu71ITe_lTnrIP4-cEAEwBRApkaqTr44gu7S7ZjW5dl0ma9inX/s320/30617147600_b54fb01948_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete following pitch 1 of The Hoarmaster</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Prior to our Chuililla holiday, I thought I better get some
last minute endurance training in for these 40m routes.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">So I ventured over to the Torridon Boulders
and focused on 5 move boulder problems.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I can confirm that I still have mental block on Malcs Arete.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Slapping the top of the boulder 99% of the
time now, I can’t commit.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I’m too busy
preparing myself for the landing before I pull on.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Yet, I managed to make short work of the
Potential 7 (Font 7B) the next day.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNj-8OVxxTAIXYFvRAb-pnZkqu-ionSphO44n5BN-00h-7AobbIoMmwi9awubsA_2AHfd2jKFiYtH20WPmV7CYX7e-lVTDcjPoQx01KWKP6c6no8rYNWIRgGsHkhUhN4Q3WCydKv8yVAro/s1600/30208984413_7f7291507f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNj-8OVxxTAIXYFvRAb-pnZkqu-ionSphO44n5BN-00h-7AobbIoMmwi9awubsA_2AHfd2jKFiYtH20WPmV7CYX7e-lVTDcjPoQx01KWKP6c6no8rYNWIRgGsHkhUhN4Q3WCydKv8yVAro/s320/30208984413_7f7291507f_o.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Potential 7</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcwDWAsXZBA74JWmPyoxfeA9VBQ9D9qhPO5812wAbdEzm4eO8nb91ifrmVF5qy2k5NmlMRJaPCxsUdxshTp_ce9HWDqICrBpDVqDizbl-xLzuCAfJ-qeLkBzvvWO2L8y0_aPiadKmmEbDq/s1600/20161120_122157.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcwDWAsXZBA74JWmPyoxfeA9VBQ9D9qhPO5812wAbdEzm4eO8nb91ifrmVF5qy2k5NmlMRJaPCxsUdxshTp_ce9HWDqICrBpDVqDizbl-xLzuCAfJ-qeLkBzvvWO2L8y0_aPiadKmmEbDq/s320/20161120_122157.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi Stretched</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvDqKCBzcvJiC-TScCwpkh1wQAfBihIBmoIOzC9BNXm50dbkw5sihVZzocDCzDFhNhRFx7v7-4BztcV0Oqshaw4W5GZuFc66-pUy7s-P-NDndcrNKsgzpACdFNVRolFhP9HdcHFcs8QyP/s1600/20161106_134701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvDqKCBzcvJiC-TScCwpkh1wQAfBihIBmoIOzC9BNXm50dbkw5sihVZzocDCzDFhNhRFx7v7-4BztcV0Oqshaw4W5GZuFc66-pUy7s-P-NDndcrNKsgzpACdFNVRolFhP9HdcHFcs8QyP/s320/20161106_134701.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crag guardian giving Malcs arête beta. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Winter made an appearance early on in November.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Peter Herd and Myself arranged a mellow
day.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">The howling wind certainly blew the
winter cobwebs off my tools.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Plan A was
abandoned so a stroll into Lochain was next.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Having never climbed the </span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">‘The
Hoarmaster’ but seeing it so many times, it seemed an appealing choice given
the weather.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Pete lead the second pitch
but the cheeky bugger belayed just below the top of the crag leaving me to top
out into the ming.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I love unconsolidated
snow sat on slopey granite slabs.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I
actually thought I was going to get blown off backwards.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">No joke.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">So I waited patiently (well as best I could) for a slight lull.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">The walk out was easy.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">We were literally been blown back to the car.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Winter, you got to love it!</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdZaJviN3U5ke-ycrf00ekAUlVpqfZuJqKvQj7LN5VgIpZDC3fMyz0JKXDCwR29tTTX22nsoY5ozt8PwHzJ06EpthprFxpkpDunXy-QJqL4jsvnEPmxsxEojDXZLHROKhkWCQW09_vCrt/s1600/2016-12-18_08-55-57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdZaJviN3U5ke-ycrf00ekAUlVpqfZuJqKvQj7LN5VgIpZDC3fMyz0JKXDCwR29tTTX22nsoY5ozt8PwHzJ06EpthprFxpkpDunXy-QJqL4jsvnEPmxsxEojDXZLHROKhkWCQW09_vCrt/s320/2016-12-18_08-55-57.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Windy (Photo: Peter Herd)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
</div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Whilst Scotland was blessed in with high pressure, Mhairi
and I left on an Easyjet flight to a pissing wet Spain.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I won’t lie, sat in the airport comparing the
Scottish forecast with the 10 day forecast for Chulilla did make us both feel a
bit sick.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">But you never know…</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Arriving in Chulilla, there were mini rivers
flowing down the roads.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Unloading the
hire car, we both got soaked.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I suspect
you are all sat there waiting for a grumbling blog about how shit it was and
how I suffered major FOMO.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Well, there
is none to report.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Chuililla is an
amazing place.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">With the walls being so
tall, the crag bases remained dry.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Fair
enough some Tufas seaped and there were times that conditions were not amazing
with humidity.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">But in actual fact we did
the same amount of climbing whether the sun was shining or not.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPrHrRxgWBsdDmTLPqWGqDuJwC3TC1SSQOQrLMvodaCpJ-GakGX5DOL5svneLxF6pQKEMva8R09a6CzGLP6XTcx2tkR2dlTw-Q284i_JD4PG0YrBfseSD5MunZUMF8gMlAvT7LcHAjRInm/s1600/20161126_151828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPrHrRxgWBsdDmTLPqWGqDuJwC3TC1SSQOQrLMvodaCpJ-GakGX5DOL5svneLxF6pQKEMva8R09a6CzGLP6XTcx2tkR2dlTw-Q284i_JD4PG0YrBfseSD5MunZUMF8gMlAvT7LcHAjRInm/s320/20161126_151828.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chulilla</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvv3Uq79wbU_T8eCLo_s1jzqZJhhiwaKhvYlEVHnI8B61sGrS5lB7nZpEy_bzGcwEm6lOr6ZYqTaH2uXGN5OfSZtfZJYNYnJp4D0IL-roHc6l4L_HFXIpiOLXdDXIkudT2oGd6JQuGRk2/s1600/20161203_140022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvv3Uq79wbU_T8eCLo_s1jzqZJhhiwaKhvYlEVHnI8B61sGrS5lB7nZpEy_bzGcwEm6lOr6ZYqTaH2uXGN5OfSZtfZJYNYnJp4D0IL-roHc6l4L_HFXIpiOLXdDXIkudT2oGd6JQuGRk2/s320/20161203_140022.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sometimes it looks like this...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBV8VmP2fnLB04s5D-chJ3jl4JxsT8gk_wRQjYL7msn5Nvq4S5TKZSjj5djWnHykUSEDaQHyK2XusdwgKAgrbNrbOjneUMdS-HozK7wNgwvjGu4CugyYW61htCl8pJjGS1BqRz51QrrCiS/s1600/20161205_100515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBV8VmP2fnLB04s5D-chJ3jl4JxsT8gk_wRQjYL7msn5Nvq4S5TKZSjj5djWnHykUSEDaQHyK2XusdwgKAgrbNrbOjneUMdS-HozK7wNgwvjGu4CugyYW61htCl8pJjGS1BqRz51QrrCiS/s320/20161205_100515.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..but mainly this.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></div>
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<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">I must not forget to pass my thanks to Peter Herd and Amy
for restalking me with tea.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I find
Spanish tea bag collections shit.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I
thought I took enough normal ones, but part of the way through, I recounted and
feared the worst.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">So Peter who was
flying out during the middle part of our trip kindly took some.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Legend.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Thanks! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUNBwykaCkWfQ_xuzUlZ1HNyYZsOtNdPyAapzluGDRHvHAHcWmTzbodQZTLMMv-eLGOUb8NWjuj7xxx3c5yijyO8PMXv1ZqS9cDdiiMG8jvxKnM73G8dm8lNF7-ZyDEsz-97QMm2HOr-rE/s1600/20161201_210906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUNBwykaCkWfQ_xuzUlZ1HNyYZsOtNdPyAapzluGDRHvHAHcWmTzbodQZTLMMv-eLGOUb8NWjuj7xxx3c5yijyO8PMXv1ZqS9cDdiiMG8jvxKnM73G8dm8lNF7-ZyDEsz-97QMm2HOr-rE/s320/20161201_210906.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Highlights include, Mhairi onsighting 'Las caquitas de Nazarten 7b'.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">It was a pleasure to hold her rope.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">For me, nothing new, just the treading water
of regular 7c+ onsights with the occasional 8a first redpoint. The golden rule
was, if Rob Greenwood had onsighted it, I had to onsight it.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">If Rob had red pointed it, I still had to
onsight it.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Moon Safari 7c+ when I was
knackered before I started was memorable.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">I turned 30 years old as well.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">My
knees are sore, my hips are sore my back is sore, and as for my elbows, they
are fucked.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Old age eh! </span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">And of course, socialising with The Evans, Martin,
Katy, Alex, Emma, Rory, Pete and Liam was good fun.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuoR0ETBoGgFcTcx_N4mvWiUzj6WARnWl8DPrsofrtxifwWX7xdkQ1EqapTjidlfmvrrjcX0NbS4tMzq-aVYuaSEnGbIhS6tnH0vnPPc5uuqWF1WOajO7IBuOcWNL6UODDu3Igyx9VTkC1/s1600/20161125_111934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuoR0ETBoGgFcTcx_N4mvWiUzj6WARnWl8DPrsofrtxifwWX7xdkQ1EqapTjidlfmvrrjcX0NbS4tMzq-aVYuaSEnGbIhS6tnH0vnPPc5uuqWF1WOajO7IBuOcWNL6UODDu3Igyx9VTkC1/s320/20161125_111934.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi warming up on 'Top of the Rock'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
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<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ur2CyfL2YH29HQ_O9ORQ0khEGuEVTfEn0xbkcvnbSZObfBSl__lHcuul1qOY8tPu84BqIDZICPzndtr3AAGCXplmRFbl7ES2Yj8FAi-y6YdvBTRm3g6cmFTpbEYffZfGeqZYhb6vI2dL/s1600/20161202_125346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ur2CyfL2YH29HQ_O9ORQ0khEGuEVTfEn0xbkcvnbSZObfBSl__lHcuul1qOY8tPu84BqIDZICPzndtr3AAGCXplmRFbl7ES2Yj8FAi-y6YdvBTRm3g6cmFTpbEYffZfGeqZYhb6vI2dL/s320/20161202_125346.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBV8VmP2fnLB04s5D-chJ3jl4JxsT8gk_wRQjYL7msn5Nvq4S5TKZSjj5djWnHykUSEDaQHyK2XusdwgKAgrbNrbOjneUMdS-HozK7wNgwvjGu4CugyYW61htCl8pJjGS1BqRz51QrrCiS/s1600/20161205_100515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
Thank you to this lady for her patience. Chulilla routes are not short.</div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 11px;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj50_vo9MdoW8oVGQCkU0X8kAF_Q4lVbd5vGuswQoUro1Cpv9MXaacroGLykORVVd3HpoUYV8LmIa-fSAxWI4TD1hqR7y8_5jiQ6N5hRxfPwn4m5XnrE9UrzZwg82fvld63JfjMr0GfVkOq/s1600/20161201_172122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj50_vo9MdoW8oVGQCkU0X8kAF_Q4lVbd5vGuswQoUro1Cpv9MXaacroGLykORVVd3HpoUYV8LmIa-fSAxWI4TD1hqR7y8_5jiQ6N5hRxfPwn4m5XnrE9UrzZwg82fvld63JfjMr0GfVkOq/s320/20161201_172122.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";">Back home now, winter has gone.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">Good.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">We have all heard it before, Murdoch’s winter strategy, I’m going to
boulder more and become stronger’.</span><span style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "calibri";"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri";">But
we all know, when the snow arrives, I’ll be wetting my pants.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC9eOAdzIVBNdxhyio_Cq8QsIyEg_2CF34xduiW4j4DpltmGYz3XyANA9bhgA5G7M0sHXGEzvxicghJlGnSK4j8lszvqas2ajFVTOpQLW3P7kIEgh1VfZeiPHNVxHJnqrJbJmoLjlqk4v_/s1600/20161127_105304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC9eOAdzIVBNdxhyio_Cq8QsIyEg_2CF34xduiW4j4DpltmGYz3XyANA9bhgA5G7M0sHXGEzvxicghJlGnSK4j8lszvqas2ajFVTOpQLW3P7kIEgh1VfZeiPHNVxHJnqrJbJmoLjlqk4v_/s1600/20161127_105304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC9eOAdzIVBNdxhyio_Cq8QsIyEg_2CF34xduiW4j4DpltmGYz3XyANA9bhgA5G7M0sHXGEzvxicghJlGnSK4j8lszvqas2ajFVTOpQLW3P7kIEgh1VfZeiPHNVxHJnqrJbJmoLjlqk4v_/s320/20161127_105304.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was good fun.</td></tr>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-67749260217446075242016-10-23T14:36:00.001-07:002016-10-23T23:12:06.469-07:00Patience...It's not over yet!<div class="MsoNormal">
Shaking out above the crux of ‘Ride the Wild Surf‘ E4 6a,
I took a moment to absorb my surroundings. Autumn had certainly arrived in
North Wales. The wonderful burnt colour of the hillside reflecting the light
from the low setting sun was magical. A
few moments later, I had the pleasure of topping out from another cool slate
route. With it being so dry (Ride… tends to seap), it was an opportunity for the visiting Murdoch not to miss. Another ‘North Wales Rock’ green guidebook
route ticked. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After returning from Squamish, I was welcomed back by the
midges and rain. Mhairi and I got a
soaking in Beinn Eighe when we attempted Sumo E3 6a.
Continuing was out of the question.
I thought the midges were bad when I got back to the Corie Dubh Mor car
park, then I saw Ian and <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonystone/29270677305/in/dateposted/">Tony’s photo </a>from the Shelterstone! A week later, the rain washed Iain and I off
the Central slabs. They will need to
wait till next year.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnTQgXDLfJjhAA4zdQoEYRbaX_Oc-obHT6IVokuZ4IikkwkPNVAtyCX-n1aJy8RztVJWOhp8Y7oQyWGyPsPeV3covgs__7cTquoPszqZ3eNyXKZKRT7vR1gp84Xl2wRLqpX5bzPtaQ1IJ/s1600/29234897996_cfde5eeee9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnTQgXDLfJjhAA4zdQoEYRbaX_Oc-obHT6IVokuZ4IikkwkPNVAtyCX-n1aJy8RztVJWOhp8Y7oQyWGyPsPeV3covgs__7cTquoPszqZ3eNyXKZKRT7vR1gp84Xl2wRLqpX5bzPtaQ1IJ/s320/29234897996_cfde5eeee9_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A welcome home from the little shits.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRMGxpCKFDPj9WnJVb4kNRUVV14FBeeRtzGrQD8K0-9-4Z5e74QpucBPEmeC7-avILnpBoIU7XLI5ZJLZzTQMmH8uel-bHdyxqIvDisHOieXRjJy288VJ4qI7F5lz0Kzz87rQuuAEzH5K1/s1600/28675337774_749068e81e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRMGxpCKFDPj9WnJVb4kNRUVV14FBeeRtzGrQD8K0-9-4Z5e74QpucBPEmeC7-avILnpBoIU7XLI5ZJLZzTQMmH8uel-bHdyxqIvDisHOieXRjJy288VJ4qI7F5lz0Kzz87rQuuAEzH5K1/s320/28675337774_749068e81e_o.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, I look twit. But very practical. (Photo: Ian Taylor)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Iain Small as per usual has been operating under the radar this
summer, opening up some hard new routes.
This year, Binnean Shaus seemed the most appropriate venue; southerly
aspect, exposed and quick drying. I was
keen to repeat his new route, ‘Icinglas’ E7 6c. This takes the cool ramp system, to the left
of Ardenfreaky E3 5c. With gear knowledge, I
went for the flash. All I will say is
make sure you have two DMM size 1 wall nuts.
One heavily used and worn, the other, fairly used. It was the difference between fitting and not
fitting in these subtle slots! <o:p></o:p></div>
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Round 1. I was spat off on the initial crux bulge. Down, ropes pulled and I was back on. What felt like 5 minutes, but more likely an
hour plus later, I found myself boxed attempting to shake out below the final crux
at the top of the crag; a slab. Below me
was steep burly climbing. Now I was
faced with throwing for a sloper then holding tiny crozzly crimps and balancing
my way up to the vertical heather. A heart
breaker finish.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I fell off. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Similar to my experience on ‘Dusk till Dawn’ E7 6b in the Lakes
last year, the end of the day was reached.
It was getting dull with a cold wind and passing showers. Most people would be home by now. Iain had read my mind and had the ropes
uncoiled at the base of the route. I ran
up the route in a fraction of the time compared with earlier. But this time, the slab was soaking wet. I chucked at the sloper, but was airborne
again. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Round 2. The forecast
was wrong. It rained, rained, then
stopped raining, then rained…… F*ck sake.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Round 3. The forecast
was correct. But this time the warm sun
was shining bright and Cubby was out taking photo’s. Thankfully a fresh breeze kept things fresh,
and Cubby kept himself discrete. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Dispatched.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVgUe9uJDCWoe7EThM042YYi-rqKbTxixPFmuVSCXaGtemjtsiuGgm1P_z3fWqmqsYAVwVijVpsgfvFOkz3w_7zF2nOJG7AEuWQekeDyLP81BSUzrao24qpw4_W_OhQaPuKfAZIqpsAW29/s1600/29861025815_163d08bc0e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVgUe9uJDCWoe7EThM042YYi-rqKbTxixPFmuVSCXaGtemjtsiuGgm1P_z3fWqmqsYAVwVijVpsgfvFOkz3w_7zF2nOJG7AEuWQekeDyLP81BSUzrao24qpw4_W_OhQaPuKfAZIqpsAW29/s320/29861025815_163d08bc0e_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on 'Icinglas' E7 6c (Photo Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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A repeat from Iain of his own new route (the big wall right
of Delayed Attack) was very impressive.
This repeat was just so he could add a top pitch (on significantly
easier ground!). Strong ethics which I
admire. The flakes are thin and very
friable on pitch 1. Combined with hard
climbing and not much solid gear, it was slightly stressful belaying. But by 2/3<sup>rd</sup> height, he was on
safe ground. I could breathe again. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKmZQdlrZXrunronfLlL7ZCTElySdyUeb458dK7HFIlcLnMJdaOluk7-bea1cW3j3i8T05tLjC_T7qpB1M3azoP2ADazbE_oapvrwzmSifV_5im3RvMNuzNY02mWnoPlZi3lF8nvL4ah8/s1600/29233770764_33968e9938_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKmZQdlrZXrunronfLlL7ZCTElySdyUeb458dK7HFIlcLnMJdaOluk7-bea1cW3j3i8T05tLjC_T7qpB1M3azoP2ADazbE_oapvrwzmSifV_5im3RvMNuzNY02mWnoPlZi3lF8nvL4ah8/s320/29233770764_33968e9938_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on his new line.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Since then, Scotland was proving tricky for myself in
getting anymore trad done. So I found
myself bouldering, clipping bolts and running in the hills more. I was beginning to lose faith about the
autumnal high pressure. A day guiding An
Teallach in the driving rain, gale force winds and snow on Bidean confirmed
that winter was on its way. 3 days later
I ran An Teallach for myself and it was the polar opposite. Calm, blue sky and warm! </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIHAosQPn3qVh9Mms0tpWFV18SVy43UyfTSfDe6ikiTAgjqb3ExlJyL1IxyrPF4RL4puTeMNCHwrtuql_3RiTmjZYTlv9aGWQxre1kfkqF32iQ5rNdvZIkZUfSeMn4u4lph_pjaFVUTyt/s1600/30066545325_f25d72d3a3_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIHAosQPn3qVh9Mms0tpWFV18SVy43UyfTSfDe6ikiTAgjqb3ExlJyL1IxyrPF4RL4puTeMNCHwrtuql_3RiTmjZYTlv9aGWQxre1kfkqF32iQ5rNdvZIkZUfSeMn4u4lph_pjaFVUTyt/s320/30066545325_f25d72d3a3_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Teallach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZIXD5VdZDl5d1s-fLRFo1o-Biwk2G6IbmLIFgpNs2MCWSsCwLWpZDGFIVst-727DJ4mnXgicuI86Jk78dHs1JJTkkXEKd5GUAN5eObsXm3hp48H2zjpaL5xqTPnXAjLWNqQyUvV_3GR_/s1600/30040948332_ee32ff38b9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZIXD5VdZDl5d1s-fLRFo1o-Biwk2G6IbmLIFgpNs2MCWSsCwLWpZDGFIVst-727DJ4mnXgicuI86Jk78dHs1JJTkkXEKd5GUAN5eObsXm3hp48H2zjpaL5xqTPnXAjLWNqQyUvV_3GR_/s320/30040948332_ee32ff38b9_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking west along Foinaven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCa7dgQOISLrkG1_EbKD04Z53f4ssO-043BEtovWjLOgFXQgz6sHJsSKoffey23nxSupH0p657mADHueiGj3Swtkhu8FsG5VGQSr0WniN4pPdl7k26JRrMqjWQb9eaLNxMAOSygf7lCWk/s1600/29546768103_b06a34e324_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjCa7dgQOISLrkG1_EbKD04Z53f4ssO-043BEtovWjLOgFXQgz6sHJsSKoffey23nxSupH0p657mADHueiGj3Swtkhu8FsG5VGQSr0WniN4pPdl7k26JRrMqjWQb9eaLNxMAOSygf7lCWk/s320/29546768103_b06a34e324_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi adding 'The reverse traverse' at Ruthven. A tricky F7a+</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Andy Inglis and I planned a Uk rock trip for the second week
of October. Risky business, but it
coincided a spell of settled weather.
Pembroke attracted us both. The
sound of steep chalked up trad routes with good kit along with a Tony Stone
tick list was an ideal venue for a holiday.
Pembroke came up with the goods.
The Trevallen E5’s gave some good mileage, Huntsman’s Leap gave a unique
Pembroke experience and Stennis Ford put me to the test. ‘From A Distance’ E7
6c was my highlight. I fell on the
onsight low down. A bit
frustrating. It went ground up second
go. The pressure of fading light
definitely helped speed me up! I’m sure
if I had the chance, I would have spent twice as long on it. An engaging lead to say the least.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2EaU6xa4RpV-huv6xhmc2Hhr2R0dWElZDMxCzgNdP11nEI3IjdrhRd__5vVzrCWnikWDb5cFrDJCHO1N9Eb1RCABFWj4s5m69aidnhgSBhb5-WOEB76bMP1QDT04bRQgGDyo2dBKysw8W/s1600/29734187874_92e2487988_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2EaU6xa4RpV-huv6xhmc2Hhr2R0dWElZDMxCzgNdP11nEI3IjdrhRd__5vVzrCWnikWDb5cFrDJCHO1N9Eb1RCABFWj4s5m69aidnhgSBhb5-WOEB76bMP1QDT04bRQgGDyo2dBKysw8W/s320/29734187874_92e2487988_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stennis Ford all chalked up. Cheating really, but i'm on holiday.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnM3bYtVASlr-ngv39XWFGf3Pn0K_2X7ZhFmqF9Rd7oRGbuWbg50dSZmlGS-UllM4pr_nIVn_gXqKfTZQ0z1b_Xn-dhLB1YjpuwOkyZx0PRihRk5wdXbR-cdVuoP5KczRUZ7vS2XhUFoq/s1600/P1030130+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnM3bYtVASlr-ngv39XWFGf3Pn0K_2X7ZhFmqF9Rd7oRGbuWbg50dSZmlGS-UllM4pr_nIVn_gXqKfTZQ0z1b_Xn-dhLB1YjpuwOkyZx0PRihRk5wdXbR-cdVuoP5KczRUZ7vS2XhUFoq/s320/P1030130+%25282%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huntsman's Leap.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Andy rallied us up to North Wales for the final 2 days of
our trip. With ambitious objectives out
on the coast, we reached Tremadog. His
patience with Welsh roads was wearing rather thin. My stomach was in bits and I felt ill. I was quite happy to sit back whilst Andy
dragged me up the perfect ‘Cream’ E4 6a.
Hanging at the final belay, the memories of my time living and working
here filled my mind. I was beginning to
question myself for living in the Highlands.
The Great Orme emptied the energy reserves in our arms on our final
day. Ward 10 E6 6b caught my eye
several years ago. Finally the
opportunity to get on it arose. Noticing
it was low in the grade list, I assumed it was going to be piss. It’s not in my opinion. I never fell off. How? I
do not know. Thanks to Andy for a great
trip. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLmLDrBFYwvw1XxP02kSctW4KbSCiFnewcIjp8iJX3dSFpD4Vgm2k8V5S5Kr63Yxh3XWAdrKKkxEJLMINwuT8hyphenhyphenbRTUCAgtP0RK9Tc7YQ7qkWyLPZ4z2pkko71wnfz4if3M_UXyJiyRaB/s1600/P1030134.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLmLDrBFYwvw1XxP02kSctW4KbSCiFnewcIjp8iJX3dSFpD4Vgm2k8V5S5Kr63Yxh3XWAdrKKkxEJLMINwuT8hyphenhyphenbRTUCAgtP0RK9Tc7YQ7qkWyLPZ4z2pkko71wnfz4if3M_UXyJiyRaB/s320/P1030134.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy on 'Cream' E4 6a</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Traversing Liathach today with Mhairi reminded me why I live
in the Highlands. But I still have some
North Wales FOMO to get out of my system.
Maybe another year living there would do me some good…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFq0cCYzdmPf3oPYPT3HMDf5vw7sa5COBoNDsOdWDXrYExJ8shFFKMgD0pj0RwQtLjb6oJudY7KCYI14bGtupGfqkzPxueX-CuqDzmcQuwiFxXQnfKSyEKncU-fweLUE2P8g52Ct8j3Uw/s1600/29883242583_5072bbb501_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFq0cCYzdmPf3oPYPT3HMDf5vw7sa5COBoNDsOdWDXrYExJ8shFFKMgD0pj0RwQtLjb6oJudY7KCYI14bGtupGfqkzPxueX-CuqDzmcQuwiFxXQnfKSyEKncU-fweLUE2P8g52Ct8j3Uw/s320/29883242583_5072bbb501_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beinn Alligan</td></tr>
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I see Loch Maree Crag is open for the season. Good prep for Chulilla next month ;-)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0qy_JXdfUJWKD8Zgmaaxbe-tSxagPfTbIDt_gQ2lFQJElneV5i0O07dTRbDVhmhxJh74Ahlv3kJl0Mao61ejgl-FgyiGGRpDR7pUweNn0ZtK9Xzf8lqskF7fPrRNV7z5_EkS7Cu5sgItv/s1600/26292677404_26feca8824_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0qy_JXdfUJWKD8Zgmaaxbe-tSxagPfTbIDt_gQ2lFQJElneV5i0O07dTRbDVhmhxJh74Ahlv3kJl0Mao61ejgl-FgyiGGRpDR7pUweNn0ZtK9Xzf8lqskF7fPrRNV7z5_EkS7Cu5sgItv/s320/26292677404_26feca8824_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I better not forget my wellies for Loch Maree (Photo: Ian Taylor)</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-1594009574950943082016-09-02T05:02:00.000-07:002016-09-02T05:02:35.067-07:00Lay backing my Way into trouble<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZlT3aK5gDkIKSOWg_eVumvfupIqJ5gH9EQahQpj6nSkjGFh0uVmyljK0Dgeix245Q-j0elJHei_GF2zETkJIxRcleOYuaw2WyL2jjRqA_QMbyj7XUJZH2Azhmr_WeiOVhMOlVH64rLi1/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSZlT3aK5gDkIKSOWg_eVumvfupIqJ5gH9EQahQpj6nSkjGFh0uVmyljK0Dgeix245Q-j0elJHei_GF2zETkJIxRcleOYuaw2WyL2jjRqA_QMbyj7XUJZH2Azhmr_WeiOVhMOlVH64rLi1/s320/18.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Chief </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><u>Lay Backing<o:p></o:p></u></b></div>
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“Climbing up by pushing the feet
away from the body and pulling the hands towards the body”<b><u><o:p></o:p></u></b></div>
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(The BMC)<o:p></o:p></div>
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The resistance of the tag line was the last thing I wanted. Resistance as a percentage was 100%. It was slammed on like an emergency stop in a
car. Eye balling my last camalot, then Danny,
then the camalot, then Danny… of course there were a few loud naughty words
spouting out my mouth. Pulling hard with
my arms, pushing hard with my feet, I was in extremis. Danny freed the tag line from the twig it had
wrapped itself around. Silence followed
by a calm apology then a chuckle. <o:p></o:p></div>
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As I hate to admit it, this pantomime took place on the
famous Split Pillar pitch on the Grand Wall.
The pitch comes in at a very modest 5.10b. However, I made it feel like 5.12b. I made the rooky error of just full on lay
backing the entire 50m pitch. I even had
the bright Idea of ditching a second no. 3 camalot because the crack ‘didn’t
look that wide’. What a punter. Anyway, I got up it fine. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif_YbK6hcA0wcvuuuAeDItRelAGZoZIdydU3YjJDYoCfuMNs6w4orA5NihyphenhyphenKyCDEmGlmsi0_pCU8AlrXdJchs42uTU9W3EpY2tI9TUrKoQVP8vuTW8pfOqjxrLKA3Gbaoy22IDG8OJK7OZ/s1600/5+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif_YbK6hcA0wcvuuuAeDItRelAGZoZIdydU3YjJDYoCfuMNs6w4orA5NihyphenhyphenKyCDEmGlmsi0_pCU8AlrXdJchs42uTU9W3EpY2tI9TUrKoQVP8vuTW8pfOqjxrLKA3Gbaoy22IDG8OJK7OZ/s320/5+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grand Wall, Danny following the second slab pitch.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AtZi-4QM7r1cmkWBJxAPFbaTu3KF1vTon8u0nv4bT6S-aWWkZ31xg0a62P68mfWlAJ6Vry6E09EIaHt-de86LCDr-WBi_hqNZBQRekzp5-0TNHwPvDJxDVkMEdnHHpdEW4FqJNEWcOzP/s1600/6+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AtZi-4QM7r1cmkWBJxAPFbaTu3KF1vTon8u0nv4bT6S-aWWkZ31xg0a62P68mfWlAJ6Vry6E09EIaHt-de86LCDr-WBi_hqNZBQRekzp5-0TNHwPvDJxDVkMEdnHHpdEW4FqJNEWcOzP/s320/6+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny following the Split Pillar</td></tr>
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Somehow ‘The Sword’ pitch above rated 5.11a
felt easy. I guess the sword is much
more conventional and suited to the British climber. I was informed on our return to the campsite
you can bridge and jam most of your way up the Split Pillar. Rest anywhere… clearly I missed the technique.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Lobbing through the air sideways was not on my plan. Especially onto my little cluster of micro
wires. Lobbing a second time through the
air sideways onto my micro wires was still not on my agenda. I had fallen into the trap of trying to lay
back the tiny crux groove. I was
grappling the little slopey arête, smearing my feet on shiny smooth
granite. It felt impossible. I found
myself in gut wrenching contortions in the hope I could slap into the out of
reach finger lock. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VrQ3CqTld2aa-XMQPjLSDBrU9brMXP4UDRUG8TpsPbV64ub9rhU_k2lw20ig6AlGjUJMWnl6w8trhmn3JAn_LrhY9M6QfqzrFBYY-lliDdMezC2MmhjU-nKs1JABzmRjhnPrPKmHGnWJ/s1600/7+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VrQ3CqTld2aa-XMQPjLSDBrU9brMXP4UDRUG8TpsPbV64ub9rhU_k2lw20ig6AlGjUJMWnl6w8trhmn3JAn_LrhY9M6QfqzrFBYY-lliDdMezC2MmhjU-nKs1JABzmRjhnPrPKmHGnWJ/s320/7+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny enjoying the silver jugs at the top of 'The Sword' pitch.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0m4reLFIj_qZ8PiewgdkqclN6P7tGgwb2l_mirEhqjti0jf43LcTyTFH_eE3FL_zV178tDKZ2Gz2RLvwOke8aO6chijqbDtm5_nxpMYgUAjq8YY4gTS3rYMc5Vfa7RoMQMsAKBMjqZXC/s1600/9+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0m4reLFIj_qZ8PiewgdkqclN6P7tGgwb2l_mirEhqjti0jf43LcTyTFH_eE3FL_zV178tDKZ2Gz2RLvwOke8aO6chijqbDtm5_nxpMYgUAjq8YY4gTS3rYMc5Vfa7RoMQMsAKBMjqZXC/s320/9+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny on the fine top pitch of Grand Wall</td></tr>
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I decided to climb back up a short section and belay on the
ledge off to my right. The guide book
suggests splitting the pitch in two but I ignored that bit. Bringing Danny up, some minor rope faff/swap,
I was back on the sharp end. Back in the
same position, I was off again. At least
the fall was nicer. Back to the belay
ledge to re think. I must be missing
something? Then back up, I was just
about to have another shot at lay backing the impossible groove, I noticed a tiny
quartz seam off to my left. I managed to
bridge my left foot out. Stepping my right foot up, I was basically hands
off. Statically reaching the finger lock
followed by some positive climbing, the belay was reached. Another major technical error on miss. This second pantomime was on the 5.11c pitch
of Freeway.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCW-W9DPpmpFLnZB02pTzGqza-5wuk9UiCyGxuk5VraU9J3qCeVJ5alsWd87VFSoxDT74QCUzAndsdnaTJ-3bKKqoarXxnbxs_jnTAA_RyuorM9TAIJFgIDyQCnSYVvEpDFB6kBqaGRPS/s1600/14.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVCW-W9DPpmpFLnZB02pTzGqza-5wuk9UiCyGxuk5VraU9J3qCeVJ5alsWd87VFSoxDT74QCUzAndsdnaTJ-3bKKqoarXxnbxs_jnTAA_RyuorM9TAIJFgIDyQCnSYVvEpDFB6kBqaGRPS/s320/14.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny starting up the stunning upper dihedral pitch on Freeway</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2gUQgYb8E0r9nDcc0peG6npvw1-uU2VEUMkbq8etcw0F0KsefVqJBNICfMFf5E7exHjubds2jOz_8CxSwIDLtj1mYUnajfLefptSVsmD8gZzAmbAn6vcCZYynHN745PdBrr4Gk5HLDUc8/s1600/15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2gUQgYb8E0r9nDcc0peG6npvw1-uU2VEUMkbq8etcw0F0KsefVqJBNICfMFf5E7exHjubds2jOz_8CxSwIDLtj1mYUnajfLefptSVsmD8gZzAmbAn6vcCZYynHN745PdBrr4Gk5HLDUc8/s320/15.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Danny following the roof pitch on Freeway</td></tr>
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So, I am not long back from a 3 week trip to Squamish with
my good pal Danny Laing. Neither of us
were really that sure what to expect. We
are both use to face climbing, so dropped our ‘supposed grade’
expectations. We both had similar aims
which was just to go climbing and do lots of it. I think it’s the only way to learn the
style. We were blessed with fantastic
weather for the full 3 weeks. There was
just one day it was just a bit rainy and we only managed a few single pitches
in the morning. Clearly a 3 week trip
doesn’t even scratch the surface in what Squamish has to offer. We did manage to spread our visits out to as
many crags. Towards the end of the trip,
the rising temperatures were the limiting factors. Early starts was the only way for us two
pastey white Scot’s to deal with the heat.
The afternoon was generally spent hiding and chilling in the shade with
some form of minor grumbling from me. We
spent 2 weeks hanging out with Danny’s pal, John Yahr. John is from Baltimore, the east coast of
America. What I found worrying was the
fact, he never found it that hot! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHrD9OvEycDdZr-8ZDDNhnCAp3JHfbyNhYeJS_al21vRQZ_b1rHuzCQy0DJ8zkhDPJ-5NOWY1iuzI5lPxu3mWYcbDThrK3OuikiKAjql1rB-C8b5Vx9VYq2CGUwC9vLOUbQLpV3jhCVq-/s1600/29100864052_2195d2a17b_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHrD9OvEycDdZr-8ZDDNhnCAp3JHfbyNhYeJS_al21vRQZ_b1rHuzCQy0DJ8zkhDPJ-5NOWY1iuzI5lPxu3mWYcbDThrK3OuikiKAjql1rB-C8b5Vx9VYq2CGUwC9vLOUbQLpV3jhCVq-/s320/29100864052_2195d2a17b_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on 'The White Feather' pitch. (Photo: Danny Laing)</td></tr>
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However, I seemed to be function much better yesterday
whilst faffing about in the Central Slabs in the Cairngorms. It was cold, overcast and windy. The friction was perfect. But, these mint conditions ended fairly quickly
when the forecasted rain arrived early.
Rapping off rotting anchors in the rain, walking about on wet grass and
mud in my rock shoes, I find this somewhat satisfying. Dry rock, clean ledges and bolt belays; that
is all too easy. Money in the bank was
how I viewed yesterday…. Today’s effort,
well that was just a waste of time.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Squamish, is a superb place.
I would highly recommend it. I
suspect it is fairly tame in comparison to Yosemite. However, it was busy, but very mellow. There is a clear shift in focus from the main
routes, to bouldering. Never once did we
share a route with people which was cool. Both My own <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/52986281@N08/">Flickr</a> and <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/32987953@N02/">Danny's Flickr</a> tell a much better story than I can write. Of course the highlight of the trip was meeting a black bear on our final
day in the forest. I never knew I was
that quick at walking backwards! Anyway, what makes these trips so good is superb company. Thanks to both Danny and John for the shit banter ;-)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-5856170529348561652016-06-12T15:08:00.000-07:002016-06-19T12:40:22.082-07:00Spring<div class="MsoNormal">
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I think most of us would agree, our weather over the last
few weeks has been pretty good. My trad
climbing this year has had a bit of a slow start. After returning from a great trip to St Leger
in the south of France, I just assumed I would get straight back into trad
climbing. However, I received a text
message from Ian Taylor. It said, ‘I
have two words for you. Loch
Maree’. There is a new crag that
received super crag status. Loch Maree
crag. But I am not talking about the
trad crag (which only gets ‘pretty good crag’ status), but the trad crags
steep, long and bloody impressive side wall.
To cut a long story short, this has recently been developed by Ian as a
sport climbing venue. Ian has put in a
great effort with a few epic stories. I
concluded that visitors like me have it easy. Climbing the routes is the easy bit. For those keen, you will need to wait till
the autumn till he brings a topo out.
The crag is closed now due to the midges. I guess you could visit the crag out of
season, but you do so at your own risk. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfR3M34NT2i-voSozouGHbiZWX0DoLTl5iFf7H6ll-5lmIdOYL0CdPPv4oxabuO4rFNnhdUCPe-lVzdDBY1uIYeuH58SAQo-2eyEy2pWHv9KUB2vNZs-4yM-R7s1-eSZFFILlzY57oCf8F/s1600/26293712763_33d954ab87_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfR3M34NT2i-voSozouGHbiZWX0DoLTl5iFf7H6ll-5lmIdOYL0CdPPv4oxabuO4rFNnhdUCPe-lVzdDBY1uIYeuH58SAQo-2eyEy2pWHv9KUB2vNZs-4yM-R7s1-eSZFFILlzY57oCf8F/s320/26293712763_33d954ab87_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loch Maree Super Crag is the extensive right wall. (Photo: Ian Taylor)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxNisqFzs4n240wTMdzE62YUC5MJLkpla-ZT18lUrjpgEtIVYXGlw8jv5MuoBP7vyRSnG6iaumrSfDAMFMSy2VF9paVKSbIOjBCYJPONKnmMHCglPOKGX_FR6XRC0UkK7oFku4m7GqDcv/s1600/26294282113_b782b1e20e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxNisqFzs4n240wTMdzE62YUC5MJLkpla-ZT18lUrjpgEtIVYXGlw8jv5MuoBP7vyRSnG6iaumrSfDAMFMSy2VF9paVKSbIOjBCYJPONKnmMHCglPOKGX_FR6XRC0UkK7oFku4m7GqDcv/s320/26294282113_b782b1e20e_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crag guardian </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Whilst the weather was becoming warmer at the start of May,
everyone was out fiddling with their wires.
Meanwhile, Ian, Calum, Mhairi and myself were greasing off and getting
attacked by birch flies at Loch Maree. I
saw sense that week and made my annual visit to Caithness to climb on the sea
cliffs there. Simon Nadin introduced me to a new
gem of his, I might need to make another trip up.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovthC9jnTxyWLF9rWdgmg73wp6GEFgeOoaLeh_GAKfwOls_JffXQXGCX2ve50EqpFvqjogVRaakjWWACc0-gOGdOch1XyUDmGZYprIKSO2sjdsIQoYRX3Hfq4Ccmg2a0_s2kf4xC7IKOM/s1600/26905278046_004f60710f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovthC9jnTxyWLF9rWdgmg73wp6GEFgeOoaLeh_GAKfwOls_JffXQXGCX2ve50EqpFvqjogVRaakjWWACc0-gOGdOch1XyUDmGZYprIKSO2sjdsIQoYRX3Hfq4Ccmg2a0_s2kf4xC7IKOM/s320/26905278046_004f60710f_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simons Crag. Somewhere between Tain and Wick.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The forecast showed the return of Northelies
accompanied by showers. I sensed
frustration amongst the trad climbers.
Deep down I was relieved. Ian
very kindly offered me to try a bolted line of his. Knowing that time was ticking, the midge was
waiting, summer was approaching, the door was closing, I had to get back to Loch Maree. Hafgufa 8a/+ dispatched on the
15<sup>th</sup> May.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMTgDcSDS96I5hyphenhyphenvjoZPx1VcaHJDwGDLjUyVh7zjcAGvYpPZC9VaNcJx1viqDw6CTH2ThRknaCwNhtx7UyjEGzIBxls8tnhJ2Dz6Sf1xc42vdj_c7Ag9DZ4WlOo06n1QrwS50dGE1Pm2B/s1600/26293743083_dddcca45b3_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRMTgDcSDS96I5hyphenhyphenvjoZPx1VcaHJDwGDLjUyVh7zjcAGvYpPZC9VaNcJx1viqDw6CTH2ThRknaCwNhtx7UyjEGzIBxls8tnhJ2Dz6Sf1xc42vdj_c7Ag9DZ4WlOo06n1QrwS50dGE1Pm2B/s320/26293743083_dddcca45b3_o.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Hafgufa (Photo: Ian Taylor)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Now I can focus on my summer trad. But stupidly I opened an account with a Richie Betts classic,‘The
Scientist’ f7B at Brin with Gaz. What the hell are
you doing Murdoch?!! But I can't leave it. Gaz went back a dispatched. The fresh Easterlies created a paradise in the west. However, it was cool, overcast and breezy in
the east. Again, deep down I was secretly
relieved. I nipped up after work one day
and dispatched. Knowing Iain Small was
cragging in Glen Nevis gave me FOMO, but I couldn’t keep the account open. Walking away content, Sussirus f7C caught my
eye. It would have been rude not to give
it a shot. Hoping I would find the
campus move desperate at the end, this would mean no account could be opened. With no expectations, I did the last few moves of this inspiring problem. For Fuck
Sake! I lost myself for the rest of the
day under the roof. The line got drawn
and I saw sense. I will return in the
autumn…<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKl3VQNE57GR0d8NdHbbTq8Zfi20tR6BEbqzXeSkyX8gjdT358CkDDRQz4ir9KJCYeM2Y5uPwZ5M8HuWdxLZHydGySl57oBNZX8GDKApDlnnVBcMdqOfkEMN94sUJr6R4sHQtWDzUBvDT/s1600/27462210446_a7a97d9cf8_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTKl3VQNE57GR0d8NdHbbTq8Zfi20tR6BEbqzXeSkyX8gjdT358CkDDRQz4ir9KJCYeM2Y5uPwZ5M8HuWdxLZHydGySl57oBNZX8GDKApDlnnVBcMdqOfkEMN94sUJr6R4sHQtWDzUBvDT/s320/27462210446_a7a97d9cf8_o.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me demonstrating wrong beta (Photo: Mhairi Stewart)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
But you will be glad to know, I still am a trad climber. A big black line had been drawn through my work diary for the last few days of May and the first week of June. Iain Small had been penned in. By now, the ground in the west is crisp. North By North West E7 6b escaped my 2014 list. So it was first up. Having never seen a second ascent, I shat my
pants as I left the belay. Another Storky
E7. After a flash pump, a few lobs I
reached the top. Iain onsighted
it on my gear then I went and made a clean ascent with my gear in place. What a wall!
I was glad to hear from Rick Campbell after. He mentioned Storky did that ground
up without abseil inspection. Very
impressive.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXRrc5jpAlGu7IFoh7bR5jeAlC7HBQlVPVpdAtq5jWhZf6BqsvtMO7X0__B8qlykyEm-HRZAIGuxSP6q78g6bX1wXRmHwXZLUHJgSmiL4E2QCwbQpQ8y1WRAFVMW3u8tWC2c_YQHey-1S4/s1600/P1020695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXRrc5jpAlGu7IFoh7bR5jeAlC7HBQlVPVpdAtq5jWhZf6BqsvtMO7X0__B8qlykyEm-HRZAIGuxSP6q78g6bX1wXRmHwXZLUHJgSmiL4E2QCwbQpQ8y1WRAFVMW3u8tWC2c_YQHey-1S4/s320/P1020695.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain E7 ledge shuffling on North By North West.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Twq2HLU2rx1GQpB3J9LJz1We96w7vhMoiAAWytpJz1eXFE9evbXPRdtstQeIyC-4nUgkrFqxzQL15p0Ku_OlL4o2tV4rsVkdkKNIIH0_IHh6v3Mg1bWYJyfuHtZAq2lGeq0Bgf8QtucI/s1600/P1040952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Twq2HLU2rx1GQpB3J9LJz1We96w7vhMoiAAWytpJz1eXFE9evbXPRdtstQeIyC-4nUgkrFqxzQL15p0Ku_OlL4o2tV4rsVkdkKNIIH0_IHh6v3Mg1bWYJyfuHtZAq2lGeq0Bgf8QtucI/s320/P1040952.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on North By North West (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Guy Robertson announced his new crag last year, ‘The Skull’
on Quinag. I had the pleasure of holding
the ropes of Iain Small who made a very impressive onsight of ‘Land of Lost and
Found’E7. I benefited from his chalk and
gear knowledge and flashed it after.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZXv-qGMSaqO4TOp9MpKBDemWJxsITWdo9AbfwXn0bHSIwOp2RmCtv439T44uzB6KCrI55-EvI30wN_NDw4_HouWSPpn1Xt0MiwJ2wq5lpbG52xVr-vT5MSqUWdi0M15kDpJ-eDDK7Fo9/s1600/P1020707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdZXv-qGMSaqO4TOp9MpKBDemWJxsITWdo9AbfwXn0bHSIwOp2RmCtv439T44uzB6KCrI55-EvI30wN_NDw4_HouWSPpn1Xt0MiwJ2wq5lpbG52xVr-vT5MSqUWdi0M15kDpJ-eDDK7Fo9/s320/P1020707.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Someone must have been dry tooling here ;-)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyo1deSMmfoJ07rXlcHvPJhID1aDbvA1kDau_7yQrOePfTzZcSCF4-fca91_7gSG8beBajLOwD_xUd7ylfMxzNjWUuPjuLpkBaCI1lEEMD2sY2QS3st6OxcHZ0xQ-ZrJztg24hfsB-04mB/s1600/27332880471_c669d83a33_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyo1deSMmfoJ07rXlcHvPJhID1aDbvA1kDau_7yQrOePfTzZcSCF4-fca91_7gSG8beBajLOwD_xUd7ylfMxzNjWUuPjuLpkBaCI1lEEMD2sY2QS3st6OxcHZ0xQ-ZrJztg24hfsB-04mB/s320/27332880471_c669d83a33_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's all about equalising the system.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerVMC-lF6JDBcZk-cifxyBZWKTBFpXQ72HO958T_5y84ES-tL_fVKvoEAxA3VWOyEx8qdDKRpJPsKbWVVkFrpvqq1jbL1TekKznueMPRQGmBJW5lm9HLx-s59pgNhwe9WGhWHuUHa94fZ/s1600/P1040976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjerVMC-lF6JDBcZk-cifxyBZWKTBFpXQ72HO958T_5y84ES-tL_fVKvoEAxA3VWOyEx8qdDKRpJPsKbWVVkFrpvqq1jbL1TekKznueMPRQGmBJW5lm9HLx-s59pgNhwe9WGhWHuUHa94fZ/s320/P1040976.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 1 of Land of Loast and Found. (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7HESZ2F12YuolWevowOlFzNFkKm-dMAgVh2DYocEA8oP7bGFWHd-gfV6O1tJm7BmK2G_XIzfoIBkXiVP7e6DAoAN8cwNkdgNlRSVSatPf0YWS9CTGg1VGmAU026KgC7IcLcRGaD0rg77v/s1600/P1020710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7HESZ2F12YuolWevowOlFzNFkKm-dMAgVh2DYocEA8oP7bGFWHd-gfV6O1tJm7BmK2G_XIzfoIBkXiVP7e6DAoAN8cwNkdgNlRSVSatPf0YWS9CTGg1VGmAU026KgC7IcLcRGaD0rg77v/s320/P1020710.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More E7 ledge shuffling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_g6_B-UywzI9iQ-CbLspOY4EwnSU_eFEhKu6BnRdA6s8uSCWdmWn24SffmvyN4oAWeWRWYs_Xftiw5C12nVUEaD21VOv9CgMBEpTT_RPWwBHFIcYnrqmKunWOgBL7kBu6bU9H0BHHZsq/s1600/P1020711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_g6_B-UywzI9iQ-CbLspOY4EwnSU_eFEhKu6BnRdA6s8uSCWdmWn24SffmvyN4oAWeWRWYs_Xftiw5C12nVUEaD21VOv9CgMBEpTT_RPWwBHFIcYnrqmKunWOgBL7kBu6bU9H0BHHZsq/s320/P1020711.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 2 of Land of Lost and Found</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The Stork trail was picked up again when we made a visit to
Binnean Shaus. Greatness and Perfection E7 6c. Iain had cleaned the route
earlier in the year. Cleaned is maybe an
understatement. He unearthed the route
might be more appropriate. The top crack
was choked with earth and vegetation.
Iain climbed it earlier in the year and described it to me as being
‘fucking wild’. I had to get on it. I had the gear beta and went for it. The fierce 6c crux spat me off at the
top. A complete pain, but I need to
remember 6c is hard for the week like me.
A quick look at the move, I lowered off, pulled the ropes and climbed it next go. I would agree with Iain, it is
‘Fucking Wild’! Whilst all this faffing is going on, Iain is silently under the Radar opening up new cool lines. Someone said to me recently that the UK was climbed out. I'm sure Iain would have a little chuckle<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVzAp8S9FhG-IBV2I61WmF9fcjbBowbr_r8DOnHTcf3s-FbxSkSSVydAZBsDK1lSKHU9JkBdMW2rhfhe1j8gdkxMyfX7hBKhYhc37folmTO-2Fru_jAWlksgq4ts0EegaouGTt1Y_w5JVM/s1600/P1040999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVzAp8S9FhG-IBV2I61WmF9fcjbBowbr_r8DOnHTcf3s-FbxSkSSVydAZBsDK1lSKHU9JkBdMW2rhfhe1j8gdkxMyfX7hBKhYhc37folmTO-2Fru_jAWlksgq4ts0EegaouGTt1Y_w5JVM/s320/P1040999.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greatness and Perfection (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlQ36SD5ySbnfnp0YtGZFw2gQscs7X_LwrC4Yx97YDoHf1y-D0rItDGdO09Mgoq_BFFTHt8dLopNG0_zgI3ukAaipAAANcyX3kPUViF8DRV2SLKt6G6rzlC8OTLTQv45InwrIh5HnF5Mb/s1600/P1050020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlQ36SD5ySbnfnp0YtGZFw2gQscs7X_LwrC4Yx97YDoHf1y-D0rItDGdO09Mgoq_BFFTHt8dLopNG0_zgI3ukAaipAAANcyX3kPUViF8DRV2SLKt6G6rzlC8OTLTQv45InwrIh5HnF5Mb/s320/P1050020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lowering off after a failed first go <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">(Photo: Iain Small)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHHjs6D5uP_E-Wu5Ji68wsYKeBuO6aFMqV3mlO6ZlO-dhimUX6m_ombaWBr9Db9D679yDLUCxsrxlcjKUqDFIOVpaJPs81qgMS3CAf8eyQEjizvF7dEcCXjJFQK9woSns7yhWtmWn70QT/s1600/P1050027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHHjs6D5uP_E-Wu5Ji68wsYKeBuO6aFMqV3mlO6ZlO-dhimUX6m_ombaWBr9Db9D679yDLUCxsrxlcjKUqDFIOVpaJPs81qgMS3CAf8eyQEjizvF7dEcCXjJFQK9woSns7yhWtmWn70QT/s320/P1050027.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over the crux <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">(Photo: Iain Small)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Ben Nevis was paid a visit where we climbed ‘Boadicea’ E4 6a and a
line of Iain and Tony’s. The wall right for Sassenach. Immaculate climbing on immaculate rock. I highly recommended route for anyone
operating at that grade of E6. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fz9KSCvIbUYxlg7MzOO58DVd4zj6zrq9BW6WjhJtxs33EA55i8pVNzyhmgKEYlg3PsLN-dPh9hSKsZM94mZOD3InUino8JZSMisO9QGwMQytxMk63hQ3KZJVZSNIWrZ9dfCQ21XYZgxl/s1600/27185781500_6382bdd0bf_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fz9KSCvIbUYxlg7MzOO58DVd4zj6zrq9BW6WjhJtxs33EA55i8pVNzyhmgKEYlg3PsLN-dPh9hSKsZM94mZOD3InUino8JZSMisO9QGwMQytxMk63hQ3KZJVZSNIWrZ9dfCQ21XYZgxl/s320/27185781500_6382bdd0bf_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carn Dearg Buttress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Gaz Lead me up 'Jack The Ripper' E1 5b on Stac Polly. A superb route on a superb cliff. Ian Taylor dragged himself away from Loch Maree and established another pitch of climbing to the left of Walking on
Air. He gave me the details and we
repeated it. We confirmed its about E5
6a. So, for those who have ticked the
wall, but avoiding Fear of Flying, this is another enjoyable pitch to do.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4kQsbWC0vbb_XoZNwUZjTKGyhk2svif8oh5HQsGU5m95LJZO9MINvUOvgE75Ffi565gTSceO6oes-NlRmqqkR04hOHHMr1UwF4B9XiSPB9AsoZ7ROqxXKjCi9yiT2aRbIbvt7oVznOe0/s1600/P1020735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-4kQsbWC0vbb_XoZNwUZjTKGyhk2svif8oh5HQsGU5m95LJZO9MINvUOvgE75Ffi565gTSceO6oes-NlRmqqkR04hOHHMr1UwF4B9XiSPB9AsoZ7ROqxXKjCi9yiT2aRbIbvt7oVznOe0/s320/P1020735.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaz on Jack the Ripper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stac Pollaidh</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In amongst all that numerous other routes were done. A fight with greasy Culach E5 gave an uncalled
for workout on a cool down route. How I
never fell off it but more the fact that Mhairi never slapped me for taking ages, I do not know.
Whimpering, whinging, grumbling.
It was all occurring. Delayed Attack E3 6a reminded me that my 3 week holiday to Squamish will be shit in August.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s raining today in Inverness. Its dry and breezy in the far north
West. I have FOMO but need a rest. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Tomorrow, play will be resumed.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
And if you forget your wellies...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GzuehSBrjSpBKdyhJy8_Mc_pUc4qF0RdcRhDI01ls1s4lcM0uwQkhinwPBBTzIb4tNqBUTkgxO9tdYyBr7qv06vcDHr3kV8z6sKp3olbqhjGapXqqgfgananLKuKQsPoI_4sVco_33j6/s1600/26292677404_26feca8824_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0GzuehSBrjSpBKdyhJy8_Mc_pUc4qF0RdcRhDI01ls1s4lcM0uwQkhinwPBBTzIb4tNqBUTkgxO9tdYyBr7qv06vcDHr3kV8z6sKp3olbqhjGapXqqgfgananLKuKQsPoI_4sVco_33j6/s320/26292677404_26feca8824_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Ian Taylor</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-54766758434318285782016-04-15T02:26:00.000-07:002016-04-15T02:26:00.395-07:00An Abrupt End<div class="MsoNormal">
Turning the corner, our intended objective was black. Blacker than black. We settled for just having a quick easy day
instead. I think I muttered something
about being on top for lunchtime.
Questing off up the first pitch of Eastern Promise (VI,7), I found it laced
with verglas. Inching higher and higher,
further from kit, I found it quite committing.
‘This should be easy I thought’.
Bringing Uisdean up, I was glad to hear a shout of relief when he sunk a
tool into some bomber neve at the top of the corner.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pitch 2 was no push over either. Again, another pitch that ‘should have been
easy’ kept its guard and made us work.
The top pitch, it was fine...once you accepted there was not many runners to
have. It was climbed all pretty much on
ice. Lunch was late.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPL38VucMZW1R6EWkCNI8aZW7k9qnfnD8Bawqm1M9wkD6g1KeoG87ycnCWn014omGNGMLMVEsVXScEuCjNAN_yPYCwB_xQ23fukKNuUuoFpf4N3HF4moCM3JrbbDQ736C4ZrqYX21GGCi/s1600/P1020388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPL38VucMZW1R6EWkCNI8aZW7k9qnfnD8Bawqm1M9wkD6g1KeoG87ycnCWn014omGNGMLMVEsVXScEuCjNAN_yPYCwB_xQ23fukKNuUuoFpf4N3HF4moCM3JrbbDQ736C4ZrqYX21GGCi/s320/P1020388.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uisdean on Pitch 2 of 'Eastern Promise'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfiUFftCs5iW667-0NHa7ucTTORC8zqcKYAqbIR8neVVblUO4sHewA3FUIQHz-1lksN1jl0ReU4-bXZFgTnO72Uw7sXrPTfpLjaDDNlFJiVLapdjHhLoT3IllULkgeLsMrbHcVPxdrnJ5/s1600/DSC01119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfiUFftCs5iW667-0NHa7ucTTORC8zqcKYAqbIR8neVVblUO4sHewA3FUIQHz-1lksN1jl0ReU4-bXZFgTnO72Uw7sXrPTfpLjaDDNlFJiVLapdjHhLoT3IllULkgeLsMrbHcVPxdrnJ5/s320/DSC01119.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself grovelling up pitch 2. (Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfH3cBiuFuWbo2Ppzb8813_Ig-1TwAjMnseJPMS6LMzYNGdnxxaMIXv2ummrfkCIq2ffyJiA4GWgmrmpWlc2Evzi8rJXGYTiQj7dQyWnDb8l6gl4MN6JW0s0ZqJYI9CHHk2ayP8HUJM5Xr/s1600/DSC01128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfH3cBiuFuWbo2Ppzb8813_Ig-1TwAjMnseJPMS6LMzYNGdnxxaMIXv2ummrfkCIq2ffyJiA4GWgmrmpWlc2Evzi8rJXGYTiQj7dQyWnDb8l6gl4MN6JW0s0ZqJYI9CHHk2ayP8HUJM5Xr/s320/DSC01128.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself starting up pitch 3 (Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn)</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Eastern Promise (VI,7), a highly recommended route I think, but
maybe just a tad harder than the guide suggests.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
In a way, Immortal Memory (IX,9) which we did a few days prior felt
easier. At grade IX, you know what to
expect. I was kindly invited to join Ian
Parnell and Uisdean for their day out.
We had a sociable walk in with Steve Perry and Dave Macleod. 5 of us breaking trail. It felt like cheating. Turning the corner, the cliff was plastered
in rime. Any line on that cliff would
have been without question ‘in good nick’.
The boys settled for Immortal Memory.
I was the third wheel so was happy to just do what was asked. Ian took us up pitch 1. Keeping the theme of this crag this initial
pitch consisted of bold turfy mantels with little protection.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNd1ZVsmKN0uVoI6VwHAKALFkcfFPV0-B7eq7UwP-4JIPTBUv3FdZv1W6nK8o5CkwLCG72-AmrBdT7uhz4meVZ2Q6lJ1XkxlyYSM2RUrL3VDNB82m2I_SeIYoeU612zCo9CUIRlbHI8GN/s1600/P1020332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNd1ZVsmKN0uVoI6VwHAKALFkcfFPV0-B7eq7UwP-4JIPTBUv3FdZv1W6nK8o5CkwLCG72-AmrBdT7uhz4meVZ2Q6lJ1XkxlyYSM2RUrL3VDNB82m2I_SeIYoeU612zCo9CUIRlbHI8GN/s320/P1020332.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Far East Wall and Eastern Ramaparts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8M0shZheXuvv-6kcLtAVDXzuY1t_scn-LVTUVdNGVzzshU2D7ouPZ5fLrGUpk0PjD-Bc1Ipdg_xkp4Q5WBWJqt3bDTFri8gwfPEUwHHkN8vyqppUzPTTsGEHpYNuIxOksDaouqbsgVQls/s1600/P1020358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8M0shZheXuvv-6kcLtAVDXzuY1t_scn-LVTUVdNGVzzshU2D7ouPZ5fLrGUpk0PjD-Bc1Ipdg_xkp4Q5WBWJqt3bDTFri8gwfPEUwHHkN8vyqppUzPTTsGEHpYNuIxOksDaouqbsgVQls/s320/P1020358.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ian starting up Pitch 1 of 'Immortal Memory'</td></tr>
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The rack was handed to me for pitch 2. Something about 'good gear but not much feet' was Ian’s comment. He was quite correct
was my conclusion on arriving at the next belay. Relentless and pumpy I might add. Uisdean took us to the top. Again, another strenuous beast. On following his pitch, I suspect it felt
quite engaging on the lead. A first
class, turfy mixed, solid grade VIII pitch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYeOPVGVzNVoZI6NgyStId7QiaQRE5R-QRDw8HCyI4jA1prkoK_xC72e7_OWRPE0Tw4WC_BXWM1Qg68Ey0M_FZpnse8zT62hmq6ihGw-rmoOukT7lh-xFOqKiXw5lyOkbL04GC8GbXkIr/s1600/12747635_1218251258202688_1784687930_n%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYeOPVGVzNVoZI6NgyStId7QiaQRE5R-QRDw8HCyI4jA1prkoK_xC72e7_OWRPE0Tw4WC_BXWM1Qg68Ey0M_FZpnse8zT62hmq6ihGw-rmoOukT7lh-xFOqKiXw5lyOkbL04GC8GbXkIr/s320/12747635_1218251258202688_1784687930_n%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 2 of Immortal Memory (Photo: Uisdean Hawthorn)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQ2n2RrjXurw6-U3r23fA1ZqO7kxPJs0VzFc-Lm7yaxDpj6tHge-t-DI7GcHTPRDxFRRX6IwUjxffVxJJ0ee41Jcfy2L791T6qIX2dYa3n9WyOts5LVJLx3LMrTNFBL6D-3U8wkrnBSOg/s1600/P1020363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQ2n2RrjXurw6-U3r23fA1ZqO7kxPJs0VzFc-Lm7yaxDpj6tHge-t-DI7GcHTPRDxFRRX6IwUjxffVxJJ0ee41Jcfy2L791T6qIX2dYa3n9WyOts5LVJLx3LMrTNFBL6D-3U8wkrnBSOg/s320/P1020363.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uisdean approaching my belay at the end of Pitch 2</td></tr>
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<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2hzAFNf1DOr6TTcmrEjxnsIO59FqaQf65FVmp2Q7a0JGF4AAgSQi71M3MvRLns6ETR4nJ2tffZsmrBOksVGwjO1FmkIu9sXnQ5x20-Qo8eZwBCXFvfEfM2XjHNT8WGffl4O3zwrCS8I9/s1600/P1020373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2hzAFNf1DOr6TTcmrEjxnsIO59FqaQf65FVmp2Q7a0JGF4AAgSQi71M3MvRLns6ETR4nJ2tffZsmrBOksVGwjO1FmkIu9sXnQ5x20-Qo8eZwBCXFvfEfM2XjHNT8WGffl4O3zwrCS8I9/s320/P1020373.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uisdean on Pitch 3 of 'Immortal Memory'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I don’t know what happened after those days out. My winter seems to have stopped. I held some psyche for some spring Ice, but
those days never materialised. I became
suckered into regaining rock fitness at the local highland sport crags. Now, I am sat here in the shade in the south
of France. It’s too hot in the sun. I am whinging about the heat. Mhairi is out basking in the sun. We are on a visit to Saint Leger. The past 8 days have just disappeared. I was clawing up routes last night ‘that
should have been easy’. My forearms are
still pumped as I type just now. I think
I will have a rest day…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwcoFQH08MZioWWy7t-yyp7gG4EPXFnhQ8xmI8qDWAs3YNWcUsMB8WgFuXVVDbBSOsgZ2iFL2MDDTP5dhkP2m4HwUXEa1j1vwv5khlJJl6TXPsX_wNlgRjvH0_jqf4I3yuqgSqUozBCQt/s1600/P1020519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwcoFQH08MZioWWy7t-yyp7gG4EPXFnhQ8xmI8qDWAs3YNWcUsMB8WgFuXVVDbBSOsgZ2iFL2MDDTP5dhkP2m4HwUXEa1j1vwv5khlJJl6TXPsX_wNlgRjvH0_jqf4I3yuqgSqUozBCQt/s320/P1020519.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samuel from Switzerland on 'Le Linceul de Penlope (F7b)<br /> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhogQnLojpIebYF0mfwCGndkE5tfMsy86j-T6uxMr7sny89XUiIgFLRdofjVUmBnd1lvE9i3w-ErveQEGQVpWQYv597T7al7bjfnb9W8YGfobteVTkpvJA0vdbfuQtPL3sgSg8wCThUWryh/s1600/P1020508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhogQnLojpIebYF0mfwCGndkE5tfMsy86j-T6uxMr7sny89XUiIgFLRdofjVUmBnd1lvE9i3w-ErveQEGQVpWQYv597T7al7bjfnb9W8YGfobteVTkpvJA0vdbfuQtPL3sgSg8wCThUWryh/s320/P1020508.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi despatching 'Clement Comme Il Respire (7a+)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-30118788534745012742016-02-20T11:55:00.002-08:002016-02-20T11:55:25.075-08:00Maintaining all Disciplines...or an attempt!<div class="MsoNormal">
Unable to decide what is more important, winter climbing or
rock climbing, the simplest thing I can is just mix it up. And no, I don’t mean winter mixed climbing. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I received a text message from Iain suggesting that we went
to Glencoe for a winter day out. When I
say ‘suggesting’, it was more like, ‘don’t argue, that’s where we’re going’. I read this message and thought ‘fair enough’. 5 minutes of walking, I was blowing out my
ass trying to keep up with Iain. We
noted a few familiar vans in the car park which worried my poor friend. Iain had been up to Church Door Buttress the
previous day, putting a track in and checking a potential new plum line out. So I could feel a sense of urgency as it was
clearly an obvious target for any other team ahead. I was hopeful for a mellow day out as I had
been suffering from a minor sniffle so beasting it up to the top of Bidean was
not first on my agenda. Anyway, the
snowline was reached and the gap between us grew. On arrival into the corrie, Greg and Uisdean
were met. After some discussion, we
ended flaking our ropes out below the obvious Ice fall. Anyway, a wee bit of shitty ice would be two easy
for those two weapons ;-).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcUoY-tx8V-q7Qd8KAquF_eOzy45dvcpkVv_7sBnKZiKuNtckG5ERaFeu7YD48TSBz06SpJuqkGe5q4hbojZ66yP_Y2wvzNhKTqrSQO2DCy05uVae4og2X8m0LTS8IsVtjIwIogv5maVu/s1600/24851498211_456cddb057_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcUoY-tx8V-q7Qd8KAquF_eOzy45dvcpkVv_7sBnKZiKuNtckG5ERaFeu7YD48TSBz06SpJuqkGe5q4hbojZ66yP_Y2wvzNhKTqrSQO2DCy05uVae4og2X8m0LTS8IsVtjIwIogv5maVu/s320/24851498211_456cddb057_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diamond Buttress and Church Door Buttress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So I was sent up the first pitch which was pretty straightforward.
A tricky little pull to get off the ground and another tricky few pulls to get
onto the belay ledge. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieP1rqVxZnXzeLBi0yOK7G2hChCKmSfIAJgtzFRY7W_jtWGrPvqoExCATu6k7MKBaqaxOXMm0UY7ndXw6TS-z-T_W11uOtSkerpdmy-VgP3vHb9vzVl-iwR8Sto02yl6mSkdPuCu0P-AAu/s1600/CBD+topo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieP1rqVxZnXzeLBi0yOK7G2hChCKmSfIAJgtzFRY7W_jtWGrPvqoExCATu6k7MKBaqaxOXMm0UY7ndXw6TS-z-T_W11uOtSkerpdmy-VgP3vHb9vzVl-iwR8Sto02yl6mSkdPuCu0P-AAu/s320/CBD+topo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Line of 'Gates of Paradise'</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvauOghecRS66xpZ_7n2LjnIE6_frce3lOlM9-iT6OZTa0CLddtDtF5okiVVYvCh3YxWpQABoLJ4Qw_RgGIweGiPj3s-ziDd4Kni8a2JdemYfEFGoYISfkfUyKCv2UEYp2uraggJWf4NL/s1600/P1040716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvauOghecRS66xpZ_7n2LjnIE6_frce3lOlM9-iT6OZTa0CLddtDtF5okiVVYvCh3YxWpQABoLJ4Qw_RgGIweGiPj3s-ziDd4Kni8a2JdemYfEFGoYISfkfUyKCv2UEYp2uraggJWf4NL/s320/P1040716.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Pitch 1 (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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After some ‘uping’ and ‘downing’, Iain asked me if I could
maybe shift my belay off to the side a bit.
‘For fuck sake’ sprang to mind.
Part of the belay was out of reach so you know the script. Tied off figure of 8’s, ropes flaked over me,
lanyards, big thick belay gloves… To be
fair, he wasn’t too keen on pulling out some pretty hard moves directly above
me. Neither was I too keen, but still,
what an inconvenience. So for the next
two hours, I had a shitty hanging stance on a slope foot hold and well not much
for the other. But I won’t dwell on it.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqmvMKyA7v3AFi86DoJhsfHcMj0kCJpiZfOxjE5xmCgEueVOF3wI6DnGtwvN36CluOOsBjlOjwEg113Ib6PUMSydmDbMx6ptxvlTa6ZDpeU_rnzuXBpCuWymskwKauhvsy1CDgpbrT50q/s1600/P1020084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBqmvMKyA7v3AFi86DoJhsfHcMj0kCJpiZfOxjE5xmCgEueVOF3wI6DnGtwvN36CluOOsBjlOjwEg113Ib6PUMSydmDbMx6ptxvlTa6ZDpeU_rnzuXBpCuWymskwKauhvsy1CDgpbrT50q/s320/P1020084.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain following pitch 1</td></tr>
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Iain put in a superb lead.
After leaving the belay he managed to step left onto a little ledge on
the arête. Conveniently Ice had formed
down the left side, so he quested off up, muttering something about having
never climbed Ice on an arête before. ‘Rather
you than me pal’ was what I thought. ‘Just
remember to keep that rope nice and tight when I follow I shouted up’. ‘What?’ was his reply….my request was lost in
the rising wind. There isn’t much more
to say really. Iain got up to the roof,
got a good cluster of kit, and eventually committed to a strenuous sequence of
moves to gain the ice. And off he went. Cleary I was in a rage seconding. The weather was pish, lanyards, all over the
place and blunt picks. But really
good climbing. Hard winter only ground
at its best! Oh yes, and before I forget, Iain named it 'Gates of Paradise' VIII,8. Iain gave Simon Richarson his account which is a lot more proper. It can be read on <a href="http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=5926">Scottish Winter</a>.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhELgYbbSVv9OXqqSEmFag3AKdYJ0nqcAdUYVHHOUsCWfAAnmG7yGlqA5ViZDq3mDb7mHT9M0SrD8A43Pz8OOXuhiWyKD1tsUbAgBFrC_IWl_1s44LtDR57nAIovp_Am_043IcGicBSNN/s1600/P1020090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhELgYbbSVv9OXqqSEmFag3AKdYJ0nqcAdUYVHHOUsCWfAAnmG7yGlqA5ViZDq3mDb7mHT9M0SrD8A43Pz8OOXuhiWyKD1tsUbAgBFrC_IWl_1s44LtDR57nAIovp_Am_043IcGicBSNN/s320/P1020090.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain committed on pitch 2 </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67SBVVElsWEMRVPObQxfascJehG7QfgnMqu-r6WKXXNktyRktc6mw0OPmzEHsFQ9blYDJd-NGaLjurzcYGM5PVuAjo-tUb5eHclgzQ9RdG4OYwLxMvzf8Ui_HVDWov37y9mkkCTdjp6tf/s1600/P1020102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67SBVVElsWEMRVPObQxfascJehG7QfgnMqu-r6WKXXNktyRktc6mw0OPmzEHsFQ9blYDJd-NGaLjurzcYGM5PVuAjo-tUb5eHclgzQ9RdG4OYwLxMvzf8Ui_HVDWov37y9mkkCTdjp6tf/s320/P1020102.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain pulling through the roof and gaining the ice.</td></tr>
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Guy Steven was gagging to get out climbing but was unable to
leave early. Iain was on route to a
wedding, so was looking for a casual day out.
I was in the middle trying to cater for all. Easy, a 3 pitch mixed route on Beinn Eighe would
suite. So a relaxed start. It was by far the best walk in ever. Snowline half way up with fairly consolidated
snow, plus the sun was shining.
Bliss. However, on top was a
different story. Pretty strong easterly
made mobility pretty tough. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicai2KrKw_ppgv38mj5Q_KrUODWcqWm1SYQglg5F8O6hhyGaYg7fnjrWKdr1bWoMzkDnc4qrb0u5qwwfOWpwRh0F97jHgU9R6vLCGX5acf8qMYfIn-b4agLFZ_71If3yFSzF5bbR7IsuR/s1600/P1040735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicai2KrKw_ppgv38mj5Q_KrUODWcqWm1SYQglg5F8O6hhyGaYg7fnjrWKdr1bWoMzkDnc4qrb0u5qwwfOWpwRh0F97jHgU9R6vLCGX5acf8qMYfIn-b4agLFZ_71If3yFSzF5bbR7IsuR/s320/P1040735.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Needles in the face. (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
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It was a relief
to get into the shelter of corrie but that had its own issues. Setting off a few little slides of windslab
kept me alert. Eastern Ramparts looked
more acceptable than Far East Wall. So
we settled for ‘Pale Rider VIII,9’. Its a summer E1 climbed by Martin Moran and
Robin Thomas a few years ago. You can
read Martin’s account <a href="http://www.moran-mountain.co.uk/blog/blog%202010.html">here</a>. (Look for Feb 5th 2010).</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVsZm6eTo2EaI6fwez44fa2_7dsPIkovj53f5jx9XZl2_E047Q_bS5xnBADmZF0CFHo7bg0uSXBGykmGlpjfMsRxWuOrSGAWhhVYmHKk1TFu4cud1wq0nmBn4v8-mCq2DPTaADz8gBI7e_/s1600/P1040737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVsZm6eTo2EaI6fwez44fa2_7dsPIkovj53f5jx9XZl2_E047Q_bS5xnBADmZF0CFHo7bg0uSXBGykmGlpjfMsRxWuOrSGAWhhVYmHKk1TFu4cud1wq0nmBn4v8-mCq2DPTaADz8gBI7e_/s320/P1040737.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 clueless school boys beneath Eastern Ramparts (Iain Small)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsAEkjGb-OqbCSVOyr-VTAKDP6N7eronNX_3cDBrLEpIYe5PUtFjDcaaHIigO6sQ2FpsND8ipMQuIurBAU-4CIOdiM6Iz1auHWglH_atbT59JZStbj1fONq9gMO_Oq_FycJNL-Sy4bTNPt/s1600/P1020111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsAEkjGb-OqbCSVOyr-VTAKDP6N7eronNX_3cDBrLEpIYe5PUtFjDcaaHIigO6sQ2FpsND8ipMQuIurBAU-4CIOdiM6Iz1auHWglH_atbT59JZStbj1fONq9gMO_Oq_FycJNL-Sy4bTNPt/s320/P1020111.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 1</td></tr>
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Now, we all know that Iain Small is the best Scottish winter climber in the world. Its just a fact. His foot work is immaculate. But I just had to add this photo of Guys. It just highlights that even the best grovel on their knees ;-)</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_8xcMEPu9wya3e8U_AzDxhWzzh2aFQqhpADAKtlJfTtrh2iRw1FrkwZltxTNtOW8gGAqPmCXqRp2bJeoi0SCYdUZVsFcqVaMzt46KDh1A8kij4_fHKAnFwsjvJoV4VRk7OZJjrAftlDYw/s1600/Guy+photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_8xcMEPu9wya3e8U_AzDxhWzzh2aFQqhpADAKtlJfTtrh2iRw1FrkwZltxTNtOW8gGAqPmCXqRp2bJeoi0SCYdUZVsFcqVaMzt46KDh1A8kij4_fHKAnFwsjvJoV4VRk7OZJjrAftlDYw/s320/Guy+photo.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain's feet, my face. (Photo: Guy Steven)</td></tr>
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With an easterly forecast, that usually means the west is
bone dry. The BBC app on my phone showed
full suns for the west coast villages so Am Fasgadh seemed like an obvious
choice. So Mhairi, Andrew and myself quested over enjoying the stunning winter scenery. Yes, I have done these routes
numerous times before, but it’s a great place just to exercise the fingers and
arms. The air temperature was just
perfect. I find it quite satisfying to
have a winter day out one day and tick Black Sox 7C+ the next. I don’t know why, but it just is. Andrew decided to start trying a new link up
of routes. I was not going to bother but
was pushed into trying. 3 red points
later I was struggling to get off the ground, elbows touching the skye. A good day. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1lawTARDnCoG7eZQAMImJ8sVGDcDuVar_aiiC-fzf6Hda7plhrQ2rDNSbAanS-FpnXZckAN192ZXcE0dfrDbnTLR_sBjLVFSvPGgOICPMPdvy_fqsTj8hg43Kw5wqYw_USxB1oLKNsCBk/s1600/P1020148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1lawTARDnCoG7eZQAMImJ8sVGDcDuVar_aiiC-fzf6Hda7plhrQ2rDNSbAanS-FpnXZckAN192ZXcE0dfrDbnTLR_sBjLVFSvPGgOICPMPdvy_fqsTj8hg43Kw5wqYw_USxB1oLKNsCBk/s320/P1020148.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew (Photo: Mhairi Stewart)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja21L7TNtzyVrxxNL9Er_URxhIxVGEeyWsvhuO0zn9KPJ0_FokxDYQFAGwkTuShgEwYQ1QO_AorpbEtsAv0ae1ZH837m0kqQ7r6HpSJy4b6uUMZoAHQgKX8Q883C9aAtxE6r98Vqsky0_P/s1600/P1020156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja21L7TNtzyVrxxNL9Er_URxhIxVGEeyWsvhuO0zn9KPJ0_FokxDYQFAGwkTuShgEwYQ1QO_AorpbEtsAv0ae1ZH837m0kqQ7r6HpSJy4b6uUMZoAHQgKX8Q883C9aAtxE6r98Vqsky0_P/s320/P1020156.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Black Sox (Photo: Mhairi Stewart)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoK6v0VbwX7l-PNrgqKdSxS6vQ6PSs7syKw74H0JX_AnBcAHrwO29iErvsL5ANCckl7V8nYuGL0tHkf9WxYeOEhBxFYQjONhyphenhyphenToIl78lT5ggQF6Yz4jDvdoCrhYJ1YfpHAkAALyGsH7Ixl/s1600/P1020235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoK6v0VbwX7l-PNrgqKdSxS6vQ6PSs7syKw74H0JX_AnBcAHrwO29iErvsL5ANCckl7V8nYuGL0tHkf9WxYeOEhBxFYQjONhyphenhyphenToIl78lT5ggQF6Yz4jDvdoCrhYJ1YfpHAkAALyGsH7Ixl/s320/P1020235.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi working the 'Warm Up'</td></tr>
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On the drive home,
the ache of a winter days out followed by a day of raw power on crimps crept
in. The idea of some mellow bouldering
at Torridon the next day seemed a fitting finale to the weekend. Richie Betts was there acting as the local
guide. For each failed attempt on Malcs
for Duncan and myself, Rich would just through another lap, Dick! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6FVxjS2MNqTmn6rvc8HOs9xqIfdmW-jgQICkkBbzkkknidsPlrSHBunWmZpPOiSvHnSyq16f6Z7P8-TTdcZ4rP0rcwPQJn6xK2iHINGZQ-Q99iv2Fo7jBGlZmdDKXvvaVmL66sUqQaCV/s1600/24398733293_63c482d363_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6FVxjS2MNqTmn6rvc8HOs9xqIfdmW-jgQICkkBbzkkknidsPlrSHBunWmZpPOiSvHnSyq16f6Z7P8-TTdcZ4rP0rcwPQJn6xK2iHINGZQ-Q99iv2Fo7jBGlZmdDKXvvaVmL66sUqQaCV/s320/24398733293_63c482d363_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi on Squelch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglmr4D95xmfXGKD9nkXwW3E93sztwoo4oCZL9YP2HMToX0tiHEStT0RidpOm5BrEwWcxQEhBopuSn8-os8b1eiMGLg1Zn8GADzykWYufxloGzSgPLKl3Q_MswP8SKZzVvks-IOY2FcmwQ7/s1600/24658485419_e5b49eb61c_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglmr4D95xmfXGKD9nkXwW3E93sztwoo4oCZL9YP2HMToX0tiHEStT0RidpOm5BrEwWcxQEhBopuSn8-os8b1eiMGLg1Zn8GADzykWYufxloGzSgPLKl3Q_MswP8SKZzVvks-IOY2FcmwQ7/s320/24658485419_e5b49eb61c_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its was not always sunny and perfect. There was some shit moments. <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">(Photo: Richie Betts)</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNtTBi2uHkXna3uKFyoih0n9Be7J8HGSM_IaCCd8d_g9ig6Mo2pHPwZf7AQlt_wU5Sq8VmwtNqW8FtsiciLhkZvVVTB4VggmWMrfh0dLlbaefJff41aMEe4irytyCfX4nwuxAsuU85JxmV/s1600/24399317123_96a9f7cd1f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNtTBi2uHkXna3uKFyoih0n9Be7J8HGSM_IaCCd8d_g9ig6Mo2pHPwZf7AQlt_wU5Sq8VmwtNqW8FtsiciLhkZvVVTB4VggmWMrfh0dLlbaefJff41aMEe4irytyCfX4nwuxAsuU85JxmV/s320/24399317123_96a9f7cd1f_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me opening an account with Phoenix Nights. Get Stronger was the learning point of that day. (Photo: Richie Betts) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Today, the weather is shit.
I have turned to Ella Woordwards cook book. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcunIjPZTIUL052QcWDwI1uMiQ0xUsIoPAvU7TOKnU63rdGfIjR50LfeH4AMAycBMy1FJOc9O7dvyFIRccFhWAmxcx8iGnsj6NuhvNuLOQdWuv-ZycS5PBDpL64t7bDgLpC04wxHf0vk4U/s1600/24778398739_e42cbcc72f_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcunIjPZTIUL052QcWDwI1uMiQ0xUsIoPAvU7TOKnU63rdGfIjR50LfeH4AMAycBMy1FJOc9O7dvyFIRccFhWAmxcx8iGnsj6NuhvNuLOQdWuv-ZycS5PBDpL64t7bDgLpC04wxHf0vk4U/s320/24778398739_e42cbcc72f_o.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peanut Butter Flapjacks, Gold!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-73964805825810067662016-01-24T01:48:00.001-08:002016-01-24T01:48:42.078-08:00West Central Wall<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Andy arrived at my belay.
How depressing for him. There he
joined two rock jocks standing in the dark, too tight to put their head torch’s
on whilst mumbling and grumbling about winter.
“That was steep, fun and positive” was his greeting. “Good, you can take us to the top” was my
response. And off he went, with a little
skip in his step.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The day started with wallowing around in knee deep snow, in
the dark, with usual negative questions being asked inside my head. But experience tells me, the painful slog up
the relentless slope normally pays off.
After gearing up in the col, there was a silent agreement that West
Central Wall was the venue for the day.
The standard inspection of the wall was made from the top of Central
Buttress. Since Iain had joined Andy and
Me, he was nominated to rap into the abyss first and scare the sleeping West
Central Wall monsters away. Someone has
left some well extended tat from the top anchor so there were no issues (since
there normally is) with retrieving our ropes.
Shoot The Breeze (IX,8) had been on all our tick lists, so that seemed like the
most suitable objective. Having done a
fair amount of mixed climbing on Beinn Eighe’s steep quartzite myself, I guess
I was intrigued to climb it and compare it with the other routes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirGVUV6I9gPQImA98HRnZ3du5IJBCyP9EnVn1anxnucLe2WFoR0Bgi33eSAmlThQmzJWyNezm_ZVT70qVPmJtjNs9jf3SDSBsvYEoVTkbGLJ65sKMYVrvMgWPGhYVjfema7f6wMSbcZnpz/s1600/P1020006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirGVUV6I9gPQImA98HRnZ3du5IJBCyP9EnVn1anxnucLe2WFoR0Bgi33eSAmlThQmzJWyNezm_ZVT70qVPmJtjNs9jf3SDSBsvYEoVTkbGLJ65sKMYVrvMgWPGhYVjfema7f6wMSbcZnpz/s320/P1020006.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andy walking with a cool sunrise behind.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Andy volunteered himself to get the ball rolling, so quested
off up the initial pitch. A short while
later he was at the belay. Folk who have
read my wintery blogs in the past will be well aware, I hate seconding. But a new pet hate of mine is seconding
behind someone else. Everytime I looked
up, I would get a face full of snow from Iain who was doing a good job kicking
it in my direction. Knowing Iain, this
was not intentional. Or maybe it was? Hmmm.
A few steep pulls later, I arrived at a
little ledge below Iain and Andy. There
wasn’t any space for me on Andy’s ledge so I was asked if I could stay on my
little footledge with an overhanging right wall which pushed me out into the
void. “Eh, no. Fuck that.”
So I grovelled my way, up and left to a bigger ledge off to the
side. A much more suitable ledge for an
impatient Murdoch. Here I could walk
around, do press ups, star jumps, dead hangs.
I was quite content for the next 2 hours.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXjKf_wE2juk4kYwyRori-RploBsLVDLdHjKjbqXOQjG_iK4YcGSeSMtTGH0BOOLRQ2a-LF1pUwAfgXj-sqfPtRXpwT12xtKk8m9SAcjDkQ0hiX-hTOw2UXvA0Eumvab62GBM3dH2HoZU/s1600/DSC01450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXjKf_wE2juk4kYwyRori-RploBsLVDLdHjKjbqXOQjG_iK4YcGSeSMtTGH0BOOLRQ2a-LF1pUwAfgXj-sqfPtRXpwT12xtKk8m9SAcjDkQ0hiX-hTOw2UXvA0Eumvab62GBM3dH2HoZU/s320/DSC01450.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain and Myself following pitch 1. (Andy Inglis)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRdUKn8Zx76HLc77JMk_SLcJgAs8CvK-8lBn4Wr4u-8txVrTxmyJhhbC6l3pCRpiQj1BjVdx9MFgBIrxqSR3wtekRVGAIQREGrhhWIxuU8979RYlNTHWBYT6MZrlwww9c406JLGiT3qjz/s1600/DSC01452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRdUKn8Zx76HLc77JMk_SLcJgAs8CvK-8lBn4Wr4u-8txVrTxmyJhhbC6l3pCRpiQj1BjVdx9MFgBIrxqSR3wtekRVGAIQREGrhhWIxuU8979RYlNTHWBYT6MZrlwww9c406JLGiT3qjz/s320/DSC01452.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy! (Andy Inglis)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Iain was on for pitch 2.
This sounded quite exciting as it followed the big arête above and was
described as being ‘bold’ in places.
Iain despatched this in good style.
After confirming the description several times at the point of which you
commit to the arete, he did. Iain kept
it steady and worked his way up the arête for a while until a little footledge
took him left into the groove and down climb to the belay. A pretty airy pitch I thought. Once you gain the arête, I guess the
intimidated leader may feel the urge to take a few steps left into the easier
groove of Blood Sweat and Frozen Tears.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjJ9p9AgBoGnYBv91bmTDNiVSdhCVF64UiYsitxFbMdXVZrqftwzkytZihlnP82dzMXdNjdDD6U3VCqOCVLaoD-nxwR-0mfozQxEN-BYmIAUwTF9w373N_LfHQBMWOGXQt10MhOxrEmDO/s1600/P1020019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmjJ9p9AgBoGnYBv91bmTDNiVSdhCVF64UiYsitxFbMdXVZrqftwzkytZihlnP82dzMXdNjdDD6U3VCqOCVLaoD-nxwR-0mfozQxEN-BYmIAUwTF9w373N_LfHQBMWOGXQt10MhOxrEmDO/s320/P1020019.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on pitch 2.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3yy508xjvWqN8leI-dQ9ET_EPlTzzzoH1-93UGtk26PXpx-aF1MEdHz4tx0ydnhxhp-gE_E33VZRw2yQKlpxRwLqukRckkWkTQtYpkfcRlS2uCrZs6R036l33DrU3ts-llpWXUIOUd_MH/s1600/P1020038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3yy508xjvWqN8leI-dQ9ET_EPlTzzzoH1-93UGtk26PXpx-aF1MEdHz4tx0ydnhxhp-gE_E33VZRw2yQKlpxRwLqukRckkWkTQtYpkfcRlS2uCrZs6R036l33DrU3ts-llpWXUIOUd_MH/s320/P1020038.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain high up on the wild arete.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Looking up at pitch 3, it looked rather wild and athletic. I
was just hoping that there was going to be some decent tool placements and good
gear along the way. After faffing about
at the belay and avoiding pissing on the coiled ropes, I set off. I was instantly in a cluster fuck. Iain had put 2 runners in the groove to
protect his down climb to the belay. So
these acted like a mini top rope for me to get stood up again on the foot
ledge. My beloved lanyards were tangled
all over the place, so a few naughty comments were made. Once, I was on it
properly and leading, a switch was flicked.
I was in my element. Steep, physical
and wildly exposed climbing kept me focused.
There might have even been a few smiling moments. The final bulge on the arête slowed me a
bit. The gear just never felt quite
right. Looking at my last solid pieces way
below, I wasn’t fancying the airtime.
Arms becoming a bit pumped, foot holds in the wrong place, darkness
creeping in, I had a few words with myself
to hurry up and just commit. Eventually
I did, praying that the flakes and wee bits off turf I was using were solid.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE4Z79OLTBwLZdVQ8nVtAVk9IIPP1wtyaINGU42dLDV4IJERm2EuytklXx8J-5AADe8a2P0Zaaluw999j5Omg2EXmUtk3hMbEM9FIsZ-H2jLBX2w4GU12RIoKTVKq4AzuwXTxN1IoR29Tw/s1600/DSC01463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE4Z79OLTBwLZdVQ8nVtAVk9IIPP1wtyaINGU42dLDV4IJERm2EuytklXx8J-5AADe8a2P0Zaaluw999j5Omg2EXmUtk3hMbEM9FIsZ-H2jLBX2w4GU12RIoKTVKq4AzuwXTxN1IoR29Tw/s320/DSC01463.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I forgot my chalkbag to tick the foot holds ;-) (Andy Inglis)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8uHFYj9wdJTzV4XDTDDlQdBwH4C0NyfJ0djhBFoAQL9r-jol7KrpyflFe6MuiQreCsGZ-pW2jWMOWGUkyJ8Enw9NVNNK2MFXYBP5X2_Teu8Y_PURVw6QRo9q2cbMOiTP-XDmh63MtUmKr/s1600/DSC01475-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8uHFYj9wdJTzV4XDTDDlQdBwH4C0NyfJ0djhBFoAQL9r-jol7KrpyflFe6MuiQreCsGZ-pW2jWMOWGUkyJ8Enw9NVNNK2MFXYBP5X2_Teu8Y_PURVw6QRo9q2cbMOiTP-XDmh63MtUmKr/s320/DSC01475-2.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on pitch 3. (Andy Inglis)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Done. I sat back into
my harness at the belay, glowing after doing such a cool route. Shoot The Breeze is outrageous and I highly recommend
it. Hats off to Greg and Guy for opening
this line up. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The following Wednesday, Guy Steven and I headed back to
West Central Wall. Reading between the
lines, Guy was wanting a training day ;-) so agreed to get on Bruised Violet (VIII,8) with me. Now, I was quite keen to follow
the line that Ian Parnell and Andy Turner took, and not the bold line that
Bullock and Big Tim took. So I spent a
bit of time looking at a few topo’s and reading both descriptions to work it
out. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjeBaMFFq9dvV4HxWiyvtWPkO8wW7lvUVRh6IGSaBR2DiJQbZhNosJG1imwMvnAh0h-Rw6-J2NIAVOL36P8zvh1yTh-nOcGApbsMeGFB41LHfyzXpbOhiPB7MvNqYPSNlEgjEO2jNuxqi/s1600/P1020056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjeBaMFFq9dvV4HxWiyvtWPkO8wW7lvUVRh6IGSaBR2DiJQbZhNosJG1imwMvnAh0h-Rw6-J2NIAVOL36P8zvh1yTh-nOcGApbsMeGFB41LHfyzXpbOhiPB7MvNqYPSNlEgjEO2jNuxqi/s320/P1020056.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beinn a'Chearcaill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilYgxkY7DougjgbBtOX6-R5Gc7w_ON9FUOJJDRyOFZ1UczwfFiqVXVZHSJ2b8s4PnUiQ04pAFUGeSb6fm1CUDtGX-9slDdkThJPwx1wPWhw6motWq_NzYLRyJJEukmvsDA9iNP19bDAwH9/s1600/P1020046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilYgxkY7DougjgbBtOX6-R5Gc7w_ON9FUOJJDRyOFZ1UczwfFiqVXVZHSJ2b8s4PnUiQ04pAFUGeSb6fm1CUDtGX-9slDdkThJPwx1wPWhw6motWq_NzYLRyJJEukmvsDA9iNP19bDAwH9/s320/P1020046.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy on the second abseil.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Guy despatched the Chop Suey groove in no time at all. I went on to lead pitch 2 which I found
fairly intense in a few places. You pull
over a roof with not much feet, then need to commit up the groove a bit before
some gear is found. A tricky traverse
right was actually ok. It was just that
typical feeling of leaving a good rest, knowing you were unable to reverse the
moves back. I guess falling off would
have been a bit nasty as you would swing violently into the groove on your
left. Then there was the arête. I thought it looked easy, but actually there
was a lot more to it. Pretty technical
in places and just keeping in balance on some thin hooks and foot holds was
tiring.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqDz6eDZyD93MruHp3E96fXhMcnjInw5RuArH5PSsfJMJDg-Bu7mp8EStAFSBlrXnb0wecMNjUoYXsvCKe-9h2WLAx2_tAZ-zEOmiebBHnIXE50eFPqc_VX3AvFmd50LWX0208XJyNPHlW/s1600/P1020062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqDz6eDZyD93MruHp3E96fXhMcnjInw5RuArH5PSsfJMJDg-Bu7mp8EStAFSBlrXnb0wecMNjUoYXsvCKe-9h2WLAx2_tAZ-zEOmiebBHnIXE50eFPqc_VX3AvFmd50LWX0208XJyNPHlW/s320/P1020062.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guy following pitch 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was agreed between Guy and myself that I would lead the
middle harder pitch’s. Despite a pretty
exposed semi hanging belay, our changeover was slick. I think that’s because Guy is a superb MIC
and a trainee Guide (a perfect partner!).
Parnell had suggested that pitch’s 3 & 4 should be linked
together. So I did. Again, pretty wild strenuous climbing with
good kit. Guy led pitch 4 which was
actually pretty hard. You stand on this
ledge with bomber gear up and right. As
much as the quartzite is fairly positive, here is wasn’t. It was very compact and slopey. You just had to find something shit to pull
on, close your eyes and stand up on non-existent nicks in the rock to reach a
chockstone. Very insecure!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have been a bit sad the last few days. Recently I have read a few comments about
some of the routes on Beinn Eighe being "very poor climbing quality, no distinct line and very scrappy" and “Supposed to be a classic according to the
book, but I found it of mediocre moxed climbing quality”. Also the long strenuous approach seemed to be
an inconvenience. I dare say there are
moments of scrappy climbing, but that is part of Scottish winter mountaineering. When an exceptionally strong dry tooling wad
gets on a VI,7, then the mixed climbing quality is going to be far too
easy. I guess I am just looking at the
strong line of chimneys on a cool crag.
If VI,7 was your limit, of course it would be ‘outrageous’! And the approach, yes I moan about it. But those of you that know me, I fucking love
the suffering of flogging up it. It’s
what makes the climbing on Beinn Eighe or any other serious mountain more rewarding. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-8990043692798877912015-11-02T06:49:00.002-08:002015-11-02T06:49:47.491-08:00Strawberries<div class="MsoNormal">
Hanging in my harness, I felt sick. My body was in shut down. Sore head, sore throat, basically a little
sniffle aka man flu, I should have been in my bed. Instead I gave Strawberries an onsight/flash
attempt. What a disaster.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Strawberries was already topic of conversation before Robin
and I even reached the A9 (it only takes 5 minutes from the house). When I lived in North Wales during 2012, I
never quite got round to getting on the route.
Probably because climbing at Tremadog is hard. I remember having a ‘V Day’ with Dave Rudkin
and I was shocked at how hard the E4’s were.
Void warmed us up. Vulcan, I slipped off but did it ground up next
go. Vector was a welcome rest. Valor was
no a push over. Vulture, how I never fell off in the fading light I will never
know. Dave kindly lead Venom and
seconding that I only just managed.
After ‘V Day’, I only ever went back to Tremadog for work.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dave Evans and Emma Tywford did Strawberries last year and
that set my North Wales FOMO alarm bells off.
Convinced I would take time off work and go down, I never did and
Scotland came up with the goods. Then earlier
this year, I noticed Tom Livingstone and Ed Booth ticked Strawberries and there
was another resurgence in my FOMO. I don’t
know what the attraction is. I guess its
just one of these old school, hard iconic routes with lots of history for being
notoriously hard to onsight that attracted me.
Binning our alpine plans for various reasons, Robin Thomas and I decided
to go on a UK rock trip and cash in on the Indian summer. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtm49jthYXuG2_LnTTRmw1RqQrPJAH5PM0zKr2wXJlK4ae6j6Z3yZW3HunntGx_MJPf00cZzGp8N8xBqDWVa3D9GmCcEuHGdS9h4LFtCYIjtYoS16HUxw0IpxE5RXEyyvqTUoKiY2lm_Ll/s1600/20151018_194833+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtm49jthYXuG2_LnTTRmw1RqQrPJAH5PM0zKr2wXJlK4ae6j6Z3yZW3HunntGx_MJPf00cZzGp8N8xBqDWVa3D9GmCcEuHGdS9h4LFtCYIjtYoS16HUxw0IpxE5RXEyyvqTUoKiY2lm_Ll/s400/20151018_194833+-+Copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawberries route description from the old guide.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Annoyingly, I woke up the day before our departure with a
sore throat, head and body. Anyway, I
figured I would recover whilst we travelled south. Warming up on the ‘Atomic Finger Flake/Void
connection’ I was reminded of the Tremadog climbing Style. Conveniently a climber from The Lakes was
there top roping Strawberries. I watched
him for a bit. He red pointed later with
the lots of runners in place. That played havoc
with my mind. Fuck, it must be hard. I shied away not feeling on top form. His comment to me was, ‘it’s hard, you just
need to keep moving quickly on it’.
Robin encouraged me into having a shot.
So I did. We rapped in and yes I
kept my eyes shut. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving the belay, I could just feel the weight of the route
on my shoulders. Feeling nervous, flustered and clearing my nose; this not ideal preparation. I fell off
right at the start like a complete punter.
Just not feeling focused. In
retrospect, it was the best thing that could have happened. It just blew all the nerves out of me. Back to the belay, I pulled my ropes. Back on, this time I managed to get up to the top of
the crack. Looking down I had 10 runners
in place. Once I found a poor resting
position, Robin commented on how pretty my quickdraw display looked. Clawing desperately to stay on, I attempted
to make the moves left. I fell off. I was wasted with nothing left to give. A ground up siege was not part of my plan as
a weak visiting climber on holiday. If I
lived local, things might be different.
Pulling back on, I sussed out the next few moves. I saw a bomber walnut 1 slot but was unable to
place it so I fell back onto my last piece of gear. Sitting there, I prepared a quickdraw with a walnut
1. Back up, eyeballing the slot I managed
to get the quickdraw off my harness, place the wire then get both hands
grasping the quickdraw. There was no
way I was clipping off that left arm. It
was totally fucked. Clearly, I was at the
crux of the route. Working it out, I got
to the top. Rapping it to get the gear
out, I didn’t know what to make of it.
Will I bother?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had an active rest day bouldering in the Pass, doing ‘Pretty
Girls Make Graves’ and walking about with a big rucksack. Robin had been keen for Pretty Girls. Despite telling me he was too weak and unfit,
he walked up it. Back to Tremadog the
following day, Robin lowered me into Strawberries. I had to work out the crack and decide what gear to place and not place. It felt desperate despite managing to climb
it the other day. The sun came out, so
we went off and Robin decided to battle with the ‘Groove of Horror’. Not a route to try in the baking heat. Back to Strawberries in the shade, I top
roped it twice cleanly. Fuck! I might as well give it a shot. Sitting on top of the crag whilst Robin
rapped in to construct a belay, I had my head in my hands. Sore throat, sore skin, a little cough. I went into negative psyche. But I had to give it a shot.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MaeNjtZNXaJhkeU6LMM_UEuv2wGPzLHPbl4dkIW6YbH1ygJ957V6Cd3DYR3AXi20NGqnn12M4xs0UBjKSl2Fs9OXJleCmPftSPdU12ilbSNAvyw1G-P7Lf6Pk-XhQHQKDIPNzTG3J-UM/s1600/P1010725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MaeNjtZNXaJhkeU6LMM_UEuv2wGPzLHPbl4dkIW6YbH1ygJ957V6Cd3DYR3AXi20NGqnn12M4xs0UBjKSl2Fs9OXJleCmPftSPdU12ilbSNAvyw1G-P7Lf6Pk-XhQHQKDIPNzTG3J-UM/s400/P1010725.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robin bouldering at the Cromlech Boulders</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccDkshQ90OUkXSSFdiRepg4OM6B8eWE2YGcx6LpFFoAdgEw4ULnKwv9_GK10yEPcG8vZSJgIIiTRETDNQarFvtQNyafpX896dfzPDbt6AuvPkMeapI9Rg5r_7R-DrQkHfxqbIF3vVTm8A/s1600/2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjccDkshQ90OUkXSSFdiRepg4OM6B8eWE2YGcx6LpFFoAdgEw4ULnKwv9_GK10yEPcG8vZSJgIIiTRETDNQarFvtQNyafpX896dfzPDbt6AuvPkMeapI9Rg5r_7R-DrQkHfxqbIF3vVTm8A/s400/2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robin cruising up Pretty Girls Make Graves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Leaving the belay, I was instantly pumped and a shaking
mess. I seriously did not want to be
there. I got some gear sorted then
reversed to the belay. Then off I went,
the whole way up I was shaking, messing hand sequences, I could hear the advice
from the Lakes bloke ‘….. you just need to keep moving quickly on it’. So I did.
What a mistake. An absolute
mistake! I kept moving, never
shaking out. This is not how I climb. I managed to climb up the crack, move left do
the crux and chuck with my left hand for the edge and off I went. Airborne, I greeted Robin who was suddenly
next to me. Ripping a flapper out of my
finger and darkness just round the corner, enough was enough. Rain all day on Wednesday meant an enforced
rest day. We had a cup of tea in the
Caban which shafted my bank account. But
that’s another blog post in itself.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatfKkBl_HOxu7ET5AOkSZNHI0xPkxcI8O2Wxxn4bPK-n-dpbJKs1C1jiMPHSXaYHQlRDJ-bv-zlnK5mBLwhq-BLhD1QF-tkEAE9OrNhuj-Dgf56HZE2seBSurQpDH6odgok_C3HyP_WQA/s1600/P1010739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatfKkBl_HOxu7ET5AOkSZNHI0xPkxcI8O2Wxxn4bPK-n-dpbJKs1C1jiMPHSXaYHQlRDJ-bv-zlnK5mBLwhq-BLhD1QF-tkEAE9OrNhuj-Dgf56HZE2seBSurQpDH6odgok_C3HyP_WQA/s400/P1010739.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robin on 'Groove of Horror'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwelLX7ZDinC00dfjieOCjGivAV2gydAL1LqNQlo9lidUo7us1hL_JTJG2YGyE1Aj-0R9vrKoZkbNvLFK0S9BBDEsEVWTRUHhCODTsFr-r62CcQS8wJlWgrBT-6dktLNektRP7_MkOiOF5/s1600/P1010741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwelLX7ZDinC00dfjieOCjGivAV2gydAL1LqNQlo9lidUo7us1hL_JTJG2YGyE1Aj-0R9vrKoZkbNvLFK0S9BBDEsEVWTRUHhCODTsFr-r62CcQS8wJlWgrBT-6dktLNektRP7_MkOiOF5/s400/P1010741.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flapper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Thursday, I felt better.
Fresh skin, good sleep and my little sniffle on its way out. What could go wrong? Everything was wet. Lowering into Strawberries, the whole crux
was soaking. My heart sank. Chalking and brushing the holds, I just made
a mess. However, feeling fresh I climbed
the crux each time despite wet holds.
Then I top roped it from the start and it felt fine. Psychologically I just couldn't get on it
with a soaking crux. Robin suggest
stuffing my t shirt somewhere to absorb the moisture. So I did. Thankfully my cold meant my pockets
were filled with tissues for blowing my nose.
So they got stuffed into all the little cracks. A bit more chalking and a bit more brushing,
things suddenly began to improve. Then
the sun appeared. For once I worshipped
the sun. However, this was not helping
Robin and his attempt at Vulture.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUTGC4VRe-r5aLxC47p48lsg5lC-ZUche77nbmYzWbiQfp3I1v1AZuXyCHBNjVgXhv3iLUhtgCZdv3TaEprmvkngmGhrqbnWu0DOr5k4znfWtpIHmNMKSdnP7qMsed53kucOdejg05pAp/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlUTGC4VRe-r5aLxC47p48lsg5lC-ZUche77nbmYzWbiQfp3I1v1AZuXyCHBNjVgXhv3iLUhtgCZdv3TaEprmvkngmGhrqbnWu0DOr5k4znfWtpIHmNMKSdnP7qMsed53kucOdejg05pAp/s400/3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sub- optimal conditions on Vulture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Being lowered in, the crux had dried. A flicker of psyche was ignited in me. This time I had the pressure of an audience, Tim
Neill and his clients. Oh well. At the belay I went through the routine of
going up, placed some kit and reversed.
I suddenly felt too warm and sweaty.
I had a thin base layer on as a replacement for my t shirt. I had to take it off. I hate climbing with my top off. It just feels wrong. I only have water pistols to show off. No guns, but needs must. So off I went,
this time a steady approach. Doing what I'm
good at, moving steady, placing good gear rather than chucking it in, chalking up and shaking out. At the top of the crack, I paused, slowed
things down. Listening to myself rather
than advice was key. The crux felt piss. I topped out and looked round. I could see Tim and his group sat there shielding
their eyes. I was blinding them as the sun
was reflecting off my white Scottish tan.
I think there was a comment made somewhere that I was a week early for
Halloween. We decided to finish the day
off with ‘Venom’. I followed Robin who casually
walked up it... I still found it desperate.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7qOKE5s1KhxNjQun6LoLu7ZtMXknBdmhyaMNnvvG25Eaf1K-3FH-XXP2kGS1F8gk-ugYFRF-LmF2NMx6YL9obWUOos2iWqEKdywbsT8kO_XmoHfqrB8kt-Wr7a6pmzexJ5kfuCixHgg9C/s1600/IMG_1818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7qOKE5s1KhxNjQun6LoLu7ZtMXknBdmhyaMNnvvG25Eaf1K-3FH-XXP2kGS1F8gk-ugYFRF-LmF2NMx6YL9obWUOos2iWqEKdywbsT8kO_XmoHfqrB8kt-Wr7a6pmzexJ5kfuCixHgg9C/s400/IMG_1818.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me gaining the good edge after the crux (Photo: Tim Neill)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK65-aSMoq87j9VB3kDro2At0lWJQKG_ltniFqHFRc1Yjb7WI4CnwBMrowXm3de6gtvbxNjxqCCW8eKvSK_oIBYIYn1007ngqleeYNE6DG4F3iwOCGlNEU3x4GxVDbOA0_uKkZXNUXZDyU/s1600/IMG_1801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK65-aSMoq87j9VB3kDro2At0lWJQKG_ltniFqHFRc1Yjb7WI4CnwBMrowXm3de6gtvbxNjxqCCW8eKvSK_oIBYIYn1007ngqleeYNE6DG4F3iwOCGlNEU3x4GxVDbOA0_uKkZXNUXZDyU/s400/IMG_1801.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...on the easy ground. (Photo: Tim Neill)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’m pretty happy with what happened. I gave Strawberries a good onsight/flash
attempt, took the whipper and then dispatched it. So it came pretty quickly. I got my money’s worth. Onsighting it would have been crap as you wouldn’t
get the full value of the route. The lob
was better than topping out. What a
ride! Thanks to big Tim for the photo's. Whilst writing this post, I came across this <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1117">UKC article</a> by Jack Geldard and an interview with <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6412">Steve McClure</a> by Duncan Campbell. Worth a read if you're bored. But if you can't be arsed reading, Here is a video of <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVItYSLwKo">Steve McClure</a> discussing the route after his onsight of the route. <br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
This is my account of Strawberries. That was only one route out of many others
which Robin and I did on our trip. What
a laugh we had. I like to see I'm not
the only one that grumbles about the price of going to cafe's and what a waste
of money it is. I can’t thank him enough
for his patience in belaying me as trad climbing can be a bit off a faff
sometimes. <br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-44914277466069998952015-10-15T02:09:00.000-07:002015-10-15T02:18:09.143-07:00The Force<div class="MsoNormal">
Most days last winter, Andy Inglis and I would chat on
Facebook. We mainly talked about winter conditions, What’s ‘in’, where’s the
freezing level and all that shit. Sometimes
Andy asked me what I’d been up to that day.
My usual reply was, ‘F8b training’.
That meant I was usually out bouldering or down at the wall pissing
about with no idea what I was doing.
Training for what though? I had no focus, just keeping on top of rock
fitness whilst the winter sucked my little strength away. One day I might need to pull
hard on rock. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZj0uzY-wt3IEsYkac4TRogDLvD0tcWDlfow2a0RPEV8x4j3KiM85dwpqB7j0RXZ54U2I_XRIO7h73u0w_8MRRmyhdvU0bq2FqQbqYc8JqhY2LrD7QeX3lrgMGPYjA7JZ0x8h6epghfvEg/s1600/1653583_578997640324_1147255077_n+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZj0uzY-wt3IEsYkac4TRogDLvD0tcWDlfow2a0RPEV8x4j3KiM85dwpqB7j0RXZ54U2I_XRIO7h73u0w_8MRRmyhdvU0bq2FqQbqYc8JqhY2LrD7QeX3lrgMGPYjA7JZ0x8h6epghfvEg/s320/1653583_578997640324_1147255077_n+%25282%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself getting weak on Beinn Eighe. (Photo: John Orr)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYlrhWB8QxwsRGfL3o6a9fM6UWeTZe4igJODQ2s8iYayfpFkXxKOmhpfC8b-9S-QzilamqNq4Uy5B-v_TcevpFbCWlXpk6dhltsZxKv2fxlEfNhCl3cTlejuI5KOGPYaIR0zuLSW1XUaI/s1600/DSCN4465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYlrhWB8QxwsRGfL3o6a9fM6UWeTZe4igJODQ2s8iYayfpFkXxKOmhpfC8b-9S-QzilamqNq4Uy5B-v_TcevpFbCWlXpk6dhltsZxKv2fxlEfNhCl3cTlejuI5KOGPYaIR0zuLSW1XUaI/s320/DSCN4465.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself not getting weak at Ruthven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Andrew Wilby established a sport route called ‘The Force’ at Zed Buttress a
few years ago. He occasionally
mentioned that I should go and have look at it.
I paid the crag a visit when only 3 lines existed back in April 2013. Since then, I have always just been distracted
by other things; Keeping fit at other sport crags, fiddling shitty wires into cracks
or swing tools into frozen turf. This
spring I went back to repeat some of the routes. On Saturday 28th March 2015, I was introduced
to ‘The Force’ by Andrew. I managed to
do the moves in isolation, but they all felt totally ridiculous. Most were at my absolute limit. The crux involved throwing for a tiny 3
finger sharp edge. Oh and you were
pulling like fuck with your left hand on a razor crimp and your feet were on
nothing. I left the crag with mixed feelings and 2 bleeding finger tips. Hmm.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4J4-Im-f0NRliULiSwTAopnmL-la8vcKYbTIeZr5Lu_mTsSBrQT_LXHgLR-J6B_u5bDZEP2NUc-k8fmBV-eWTx9VIyPs_7hRmq_7HWGbUhzBGEfvn5d4o5YQhNnL9IeRrmAVIwaxDq0Ri/s1600/DSCN3555+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4J4-Im-f0NRliULiSwTAopnmL-la8vcKYbTIeZr5Lu_mTsSBrQT_LXHgLR-J6B_u5bDZEP2NUc-k8fmBV-eWTx9VIyPs_7hRmq_7HWGbUhzBGEfvn5d4o5YQhNnL9IeRrmAVIwaxDq0Ri/s320/DSCN3555+-+Copy.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew Wilby working 'The Force' back in 2013.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A few months passed, summer was due to arrive, but instead
the wet and windy autumn arrived. Enough moaning
about the crap summer. However, these
crap conditions were actually pretty good for sport climbing and
bouldering. So I returned to Zed buttress
in August. This time, I teamed up with
the Cunningham squad and Rhys Langlands.
Calum and I messed about on ‘The Force’.
Things felt marginally better than my previous visit, but not by much. Another kick in the balls was seeing how
comfortable Calum looked on the route.
It was evident he would do this next visit. However it was still at my
limit. I ran away to Ruthven that
evening and tried Blair’s traverse.
Stupidly I pulled on at the ‘Square Jug’, and went from there to the
finish. My best link ever, but why did I
not pull on from the start which is just a few moves to the left? Useless.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Reading through my diary, it is evident that ‘The Force’ actually
came together pretty quickly. I was
making good links on it and it never felt too far away. However, I was noticing a few issues holding
me back. A: Flexibility, B: Being too tall for the bunched moves & C:
Generally just weak. Not wanting to go
into too much details on the moves as that would be painful reading, there is a
very high step for your left foot once you stick the crux. Now, I noticed Andrew and Calum pissed that
move. Why, well they are shorter with
less leg getting in the way plus they are three times as strong but I tried to ignore
that. So I started moaning to everyone
that I was too tall for the route. I’ve
always noticed that Mhairi has incredible flexibility. Having been a gymnast for 10 years, she in my
eyes is a wad. So, she seemed like the
ideal flexibility coach for me. After
the initial shock of seeing how much of a punter I am, she managed to compose
her laughter and give me a few stretches to help me improve my hip and leg
flexibility. It worked. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQhDBtDfrVfgRUhuQz6xMrTQnlsqnoXCNvajHTqIv8OWME8VsqvUKzixaHIoZGG9T0SPH6pzWlordRWZ960Tvv9BeH2ieOBhj4Jr5KO99su1LZrJfmbjNz6EzJSfxBBIXABMqzxPGUXWhW/s1600/20151011_085505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQhDBtDfrVfgRUhuQz6xMrTQnlsqnoXCNvajHTqIv8OWME8VsqvUKzixaHIoZGG9T0SPH6pzWlordRWZ960Tvv9BeH2ieOBhj4Jr5KO99su1LZrJfmbjNz6EzJSfxBBIXABMqzxPGUXWhW/s320/20151011_085505.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiration...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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My trend of improvement was generally positive. My only really negative red points were when
conditions were crap, ie 9<sup>th</sup> September with Pete Clarkson when the
sun was shining, there was no wind and it was 24 degrees Celsius in Inverness. Yet, I still blamed myself for being crap and
weak.</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Folk who read my blog will be aware that I had a trip to the
Lakes at the start of September. If you
actually remember what I wrote, I made a significant link the day before I left
which weighed on my mind the whole week whilst I fiddled wires in cracks. I came back and was actually better on the
route. (NB, time away from projects is
key…I’ll never learn though) <o:p></o:p></div>
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The day after Gaz and Sarah’s wedding, Mhairi and I went up
to Zed again. A Nice sunny day with a stiff breeze, but I had to be patient for the shade when I knew conditions would be
mint. I chuckled to myself when the
crowds all left at dinner time. I
couldn’t understand why they leave when the friction became perfect. However, they had they last laugh. Mhairi went for a red point on ‘Power of
Resin’. Just as she was getting ready,
the wind just stopped. Like, it just stopped.
The midges just exploded and a perfect day turned into hell. I shouted at Mhairi to just get to the top by
any means, the alarm bells were sounding.
We were in the red. I still had my
quickdraws in ‘The Force’. So I went for
a cheeky red point. I might as
well… So with a careless attitude, I set
off. Up to the undercuts, feeling a tad
tired, I started shaking out. Then I
moved on, stuck the crux then made the next move or two. The feeling of frustration for not ploughing
on got to me. So I demanded to come
down, rest, then go again. I arrived on
the ground. The midges became the least
of my worries. I had Mhairi to deal
with. I had shouted at her to hurry up
on her red point. Now I am going to make
her wait another half an hour whilst I rest and most likely fall off with red
point nerves. Well, we kissed and made
up and yes, I fell off below my high point.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodY9YEd-d2Xpwd9GGz0rLfcmugQH35_W-oCjxJBVbt7QN8LmdTuQmXjYaj96IS_yd2aLvvTlWwpKZCLEZKGGqIOpdtgRvnFEoP-87KGZyr5gjud2hUtu0oT5pEZHcs-8EQ3RFXXxsNVo6/s1600/P1010673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgodY9YEd-d2Xpwd9GGz0rLfcmugQH35_W-oCjxJBVbt7QN8LmdTuQmXjYaj96IS_yd2aLvvTlWwpKZCLEZKGGqIOpdtgRvnFEoP-87KGZyr5gjud2hUtu0oT5pEZHcs-8EQ3RFXXxsNVo6/s320/P1010673.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poor resting conditions. Warm, humid and midges. (Photo: Mhairi Stewart)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Pete and I arranged a day out. I had been moaning a lot that ‘The Force’ was
destroying me. Skin, fingers but more
mentally. I was resting all the time and
my focus had shifted from trad climbing to this bloody route. So I decided to see how it would go, then re-evaluate
the situation. To cut a long story short
I basically climbed the route, fumbling the first jug after the hard
climbing. Maybe it was our school boy
chat and shit jokes that took my mind off it between attempts. So I left that day feeling like it was ‘back
on’.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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My next outing was with Dave Macleod. In a nut shell, I never did it. My excuses this time were it was too warm and
my left arm was still ballocksed from my previous session there with Pete. I was made to feel better by Dave taking a
few red points to climb it. But to be
fair, he had been on his board all week and his ankle is still tender from an
operation. I was interested to see his
tactic of climbing up to the third clip, clip it and reverse to the
ground. I can see the logic in this by
saving energy. However, I wasn't really
convinced. I sort of feel as though if
one is climbing they should be clipping the clips on the way. Admittedly I did take a 'step' off the ground
and clip the second quick draw and step back.
In my head that is a bit different as for me it is a ‘step’ off the ground where
as by the time you get to the 3<sup>rd</sup>, you're climbing the route. It’s
climbing at the end of the day and I only lost one night’s sleep thinking about
it. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Then high pressure pushed in. Full on sun and little wind. Summer had eventually arrived. For fuck sake! I did chance it and go up
really early before work one day but that was a mistake. I did cash in on the good weather and climbed
with Iain in Glen Coe and Glen Nevis over 3 days. I did struggle to relax as I only had one
route in mind. Splitting a tip on ‘The
Handren Effect’ was not a laughing matter.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbTHq2nzpmWT7i0wwXDjLODJNTD0vGOP-hz2rtLU3lBXdW2wgqZ_iP_EcxFpOAUWbbkAFZz7O9v-9qoGAPXNPs5K1aD8Os8vPynmqhbeO_z4XDbcdMNbWSmxATGDtHRwyvp-uf3gQ1a3zn/s1600/P1010698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbTHq2nzpmWT7i0wwXDjLODJNTD0vGOP-hz2rtLU3lBXdW2wgqZ_iP_EcxFpOAUWbbkAFZz7O9v-9qoGAPXNPs5K1aD8Os8vPynmqhbeO_z4XDbcdMNbWSmxATGDtHRwyvp-uf3gQ1a3zn/s320/P1010698.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain practising the moves on his bold E8. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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With an alpine trip looming (which is now aborted) my days
were numbered. I had only one day left to try it.
Looking at a synoptic chart, the unsettled weather was due to return. Thank God.
Friday was the day and I had it off!
I met up with Dave again. There
was a small issue of young Rhys breaking the hold you clip the third
quickdraw. This played havoc with my mind. The third clip issue was talked
about. I managed to solve the problem by
boning harder on what was left of the hold.
4 red points later I was resting on the jug after the hard
climbing. I even made some technical
errors but pulled through. Composing
myself, I still had the tricky finish to deal with, but that went fine.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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As always, the journey has far more interesting stories
rather than the destination. My ascent
has absolutely no significance in the world of climbing. There are some folk out there that would use ‘The
Force’ as a decent route to find the crag.
However, for me it is a fairly significant part of my climbing
career. The route is everything I am
crap at. It’s short, hard and bouldery. Not long with pumpy climbing relying on
endurance. Trying to juggle psyche/FOMO
for trad, winter, sport, hill walking and half arsed enthusiasm for bouldering,
it means a lot. A few folk I need acknowledge
for holding my rope: Andrew, Pete, Mhairi, Paul, Gaz, Blair and Dave.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAmCRg9tVF3ubNVg4Fs9AcaCw0TcxS7mCfBVGR1n-VN3rO4g-H15t2bpdm5B3hBB7ftgrF5lKF6l3014MW0y-xktf0C2WWmfhwB3ID0KgaweryKSBSszwmb9R0hK3Jbh89i_oowJW0-m/s1600/P1010434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChAmCRg9tVF3ubNVg4Fs9AcaCw0TcxS7mCfBVGR1n-VN3rO4g-H15t2bpdm5B3hBB7ftgrF5lKF6l3014MW0y-xktf0C2WWmfhwB3ID0KgaweryKSBSszwmb9R0hK3Jbh89i_oowJW0-m/s320/P1010434.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its nice to move freely in the hills rather then hang and rage on a rope...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Anyway, its young Calum Cunningham and Rhys Langland who’s
ascents were far more impressive. They
both despatched it quickly at such a young age. Well, maybe Calum is over the hill at the age
of 18 as Rhys is only 14 (A short film can be found by clicking this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03IjfiS6hWA">link</a>). Zed buttress
has definitely been the fashionable place to hang out this year. This has only been made possible by Andrew
Wilby. He has spent a huge amount of his
own time hanging on a rope cleaning and bolting the crag. Along with the cost of bolts, resin and drill
parts…. And that’s just one crag he has developed!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekKK4MJOhDRNJRjQgItxof-wbJp2vVevV1oKjmjGslxcM9PMhNY9jEBCuta5hFb3Nh3eeES_uWrAeDxJlwAqNP-YGdQDYRRRVxSsej6eEchlp4QSXvkAsy62gOJ9f81UvtiGntrit3Xjq/s1600/22098146161_c2b7834bfd_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhekKK4MJOhDRNJRjQgItxof-wbJp2vVevV1oKjmjGslxcM9PMhNY9jEBCuta5hFb3Nh3eeES_uWrAeDxJlwAqNP-YGdQDYRRRVxSsej6eEchlp4QSXvkAsy62gOJ9f81UvtiGntrit3Xjq/s320/22098146161_c2b7834bfd_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sociable place. (Photo:<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/rocpunks/">Rocpunks</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVtn38fEewgsRx-0J-Kqx-_Xl9lbgI60guJkWZU7oL8-j4kxhBtg4oTaxWl5L6NoHh1ocgBkeHQrMIjnzs6ZLlVXWpcyedUo5v-kFsvHC_d54Su9Qgv9QUq3gfQmQLkAujyq4WPNOYydBb/s1600/20150913_154931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVtn38fEewgsRx-0J-Kqx-_Xl9lbgI60guJkWZU7oL8-j4kxhBtg4oTaxWl5L6NoHh1ocgBkeHQrMIjnzs6ZLlVXWpcyedUo5v-kFsvHC_d54Su9Qgv9QUq3gfQmQLkAujyq4WPNOYydBb/s320/20150913_154931.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And its all thanks to this man. Andrew re working the route so he can complete the new direct finish.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-10644446562876439552015-09-21T14:03:00.000-07:002015-09-21T14:03:12.757-07:00The Lakes, Round Two<div class="MsoNormal">
The word F*ck echoed around Strathnairn on the evening before
I departed for the Lake District. Sticking the
crux and making the next move, I fell off.
At least I planted my flag a bit higher on ’The Force’. I had kept a week clear in my diary so I
could escape Scotland and remember what trad climbing was. However, this just felt a total inconvenience
as my psyche was to climb ‘The Force’.
Oh well, a week of ledge shuffling in The Lakes will give my fingers a
rest.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ledge shuffling, rest, The Lakes…. I should have learnt my
lesson from last time. These routes
aren’t given away. Iain sent me up ‘The
Gates of Delerium’ at Ravens crag to kick things off. Linking the two pitchs, I collapsed at the
belay feeling rather taxed for an E4.
Nothing like a good slap in the face to wake me up for a week here.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLy8MjIim0wYwrFMPoOk_vFFwzevk78yIYfKLOlcg8K-CxiHiz9TE28Ab_0DkgFMUiKRlc3vD-4quT8tnjEac-rzooIjavLZ8gJ4tJlh9glZ6u9XOExfFw4rDKJsdnpYU4OAqdnQefXpH/s1600/P1010562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyLy8MjIim0wYwrFMPoOk_vFFwzevk78yIYfKLOlcg8K-CxiHiz9TE28Ab_0DkgFMUiKRlc3vD-4quT8tnjEac-rzooIjavLZ8gJ4tJlh9glZ6u9XOExfFw4rDKJsdnpYU4OAqdnQefXpH/s320/P1010562.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gates of Delerium. (Photo; Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NlJLDUBkGLObiqWWABGluiNnSSY8IMnZn1TgjEb4eoJ4JL9zWsThArDVceEUy86t58ye3AY2Vydr4HGe5Gt3IvO2JWXYFQ_8riOzObdnjKRk5Sf6vMQVOPUYQrfgspjdv4mTm2vQup_8/s1600/P1010568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NlJLDUBkGLObiqWWABGluiNnSSY8IMnZn1TgjEb4eoJ4JL9zWsThArDVceEUy86t58ye3AY2Vydr4HGe5Gt3IvO2JWXYFQ_8riOzObdnjKRk5Sf6vMQVOPUYQrfgspjdv4mTm2vQup_8/s320/P1010568.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on Das Kapital (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi16B543grrJpq4ffnwJ_0WTHlCBltMC64BPovn3yntAxCjZGGgW1o-TUxMI5jMxzWZxZj0ql_bFA23hs0yAtCK0sHUp4tWF_O0CWJMDR2AR05JVekav10_MAkrjZdmJYKMh05ddActGI0e/s1600/P1010577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi16B543grrJpq4ffnwJ_0WTHlCBltMC64BPovn3yntAxCjZGGgW1o-TUxMI5jMxzWZxZj0ql_bFA23hs0yAtCK0sHUp4tWF_O0CWJMDR2AR05JVekav10_MAkrjZdmJYKMh05ddActGI0e/s320/P1010577.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tony on Second Coming (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6n7mnw26wykViQsyHM0gjrjdoSzvPoGbyXMFceJWyKXw0w3BgnlLRzIwiouiSmVbp7NKYumTD0dqepfoKjfkocweYir4ljMUGhPL6RU7aZjZvXUwgB4S1OurwqtlBFyk846k390e1QUZt/s1600/P1010590.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6n7mnw26wykViQsyHM0gjrjdoSzvPoGbyXMFceJWyKXw0w3BgnlLRzIwiouiSmVbp7NKYumTD0dqepfoKjfkocweYir4ljMUGhPL6RU7aZjZvXUwgB4S1OurwqtlBFyk846k390e1QUZt/s320/P1010590.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iain on Peels of Laughter (Photo: Tony Stone)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_1586047860"></span><span id="goog_1586047861"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dove Crag was the number one venue in my list with ‘Vlad the
Impailer E7’ being the next thing for me to try.
The description for the route is pretty involved. It basically gives you all the gear
beta. Combining that that with Iain’s
extensive gear knowledge of the crag, I thought it would be easy! I can’t really remember much about it. I almost dropped it gaining the niche where
you place a rock 1, but managed to compose myself. Got to the crux and made the moves to the niche,
then fell off. I’m blaming seepage out
of the little crack below but to be honest, I was pretty pumped ;-). Down, pulled my ropes and I jumped back on
after a rest. Got past the crux and got
into the funky niche. Not many holds
there but somehow I managed not to fall off and get myself up and out to the
easier ground above. Phew!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicd9nQ4RxVJbY2U4Bmd87Jb0AAFvOS3fZGbW-FdDaf8n8LpUXL7idXiy3_fThdgOSeDR5Ot3kPVZFjNNGQp84ggBpvp49zH4US1Vqv4vPcbOkegIvRHc8_1td4dYAe4yUddKXCDSLl2cJ-/s1600/P1010610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicd9nQ4RxVJbY2U4Bmd87Jb0AAFvOS3fZGbW-FdDaf8n8LpUXL7idXiy3_fThdgOSeDR5Ot3kPVZFjNNGQp84ggBpvp49zH4US1Vqv4vPcbOkegIvRHc8_1td4dYAe4yUddKXCDSLl2cJ-/s320/P1010610.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me in red on Vlad. Some dude with green trousers on the HVS. looks grim. I much rather be boxed out ma face than climbing the mossy slabs. (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Passing showers forecast, Dove was the obvious choice as it
would stay dry. Next up was ‘Dusk till Dawn E7’. This required a bit more effort than
Vlad. After some ‘uping’ and ‘downing’
on the bold start, I eventually committed to the technical sequence. Reaching the crucial kit, I managed to
quickly arrange it. With poor feet, all
I had to do was pull hard and make a big move to the jugs above. However, I was too hesitant. I hung on, searching for footholds, hoping a
little foot ledge would pop out. No,
just shitty little irregularities. So in
typical Murdoch style, I waited till my arms were totally gone, the tried to
commit. Surprise surprise, I fell
off. Down, pulled my ropes, I jumped
back on and made the move. Feeling more
confident and fresh, I tried to relax and enjoy the climbing above. The next minute, I was flying through the air
with a block in my hands. Same as
before, down, pulled the ropes and back on.
This time I am near the top.
Misreading the terrain above thinking there would be some better holds
on this ledge, I found myself pumping out trying to hold the sloping
ledge. Elbows touching the sky, there was
nothing left. The powerful moves left
denied me. Oh well, working out what to
do I carried on to the top. Rapped the
route cleaning the gear out, I felt pretty disheartened. I really should have been flashing this. So for the next few hours belaying Iain, I
was beating myself up inside. Time
marched on, passing showers, the light begins to fade. Iain raps his route and
cleans the gear out. I glance at my
watch when he reaches the ground. I know
it’s time to go. Any normal person
would. It’s cold, windy, the odd passing
shower with little more than an hour of day light left. Deep down, I knew I couldn't leave. Knowing I would not get the opportunity to be
back this year, I sheepishly asked ‘would you mind if I gave Dusk another
burn?’ Waiting for a ‘No’, I got nothing
but encouragement from Iain. A rapid de
rack from him and rack up from me, I remind myself, ‘it’s just a pumpy F7c at
the end of the day’. I guess this is
where chucking a finally lap of Goat Prow at the end of a day pays off. Before I knew it, I was at the top of the
route re threading my ropes at the anchors.
Boom.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6VDR7m1WgXGHxQ5C-arjoO_XWJoFNEIST6pDbucWUjE5Duu2s9QifkaP-b_cA6-F_0PxYUqcpB5AmN4UrTMzhIAgMo3k9N8537M78JYL7VAMXl7xee56qPKJYrAvImrzowpoa6ooa3lf/s1600/P1040433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil6VDR7m1WgXGHxQ5C-arjoO_XWJoFNEIST6pDbucWUjE5Duu2s9QifkaP-b_cA6-F_0PxYUqcpB5AmN4UrTMzhIAgMo3k9N8537M78JYL7VAMXl7xee56qPKJYrAvImrzowpoa6ooa3lf/s320/P1040433.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rappimg off Dusk till Dawn. Not a slab. (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A major tick of the week was meeting the local Lakeland wad,
Dave Birkett and his wife Mary and new born May. They were having a casual day out at Reecastle. I was keen for ‘Penial Servitude E5’. Having red pointed ‘Hells Wall E6’ earlier in
the day, feeling a bit weary from the previous 3 days and Dave and Mary watching,
the odds were stacked against me. Well I
got up it onsight/flash (I knew about the rp2) by the skin of my teeth.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ipi_u1InwJfkwEgOzLqdAbCosOdZd_yfVsQEsegzpOpFAvXhWlzjLnR-27w1v2sVBwhC9fmawbrstrxql7E8rzH7NsozqB47oJZijtGf2Gy8vrwDbVPlJX3lgOliw2T4SnjdDpG1AnaX/s1600/P1040437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ipi_u1InwJfkwEgOzLqdAbCosOdZd_yfVsQEsegzpOpFAvXhWlzjLnR-27w1v2sVBwhC9fmawbrstrxql7E8rzH7NsozqB47oJZijtGf2Gy8vrwDbVPlJX3lgOliw2T4SnjdDpG1AnaX/s320/P1040437.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hells Wall.(Photo: Some dude)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had to leave on the Friday as I had a First Aid refresher
at the weekend back home. A complete
pain in the arse but never mind. Before I left
though, I cashed in by doing 'Trilogy E5' and 'RnS Special E5' at Ravens crag in
Langdale. Trilogy certainly warmed me up
and focused the mind. I had heard a few
comments about RnS Special. Folk saying it’s
pretty bold and more like E6. I don’t know,
hard to tell really. I thought it was
ok, but at the same time I never wanted to test the ride down the crag.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOHjUrVAyvAr6o1PtKgrBtLPB2n943QF78DeHUn-0Pf6zhlq4YfzsbjPw4akfzjhrcLj6WcV5v3YaAe5Hm1D234o7JPBQqk-O7NXHMHInj0L2ky8pzqicT-wnrAWMJACo6XDXNs7FvQ9S/s1600/P1040451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOHjUrVAyvAr6o1PtKgrBtLPB2n943QF78DeHUn-0Pf6zhlq4YfzsbjPw4akfzjhrcLj6WcV5v3YaAe5Hm1D234o7JPBQqk-O7NXHMHInj0L2ky8pzqicT-wnrAWMJACo6XDXNs7FvQ9S/s320/P1040451.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RnS Special (Photo: Iain Small)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Just in case you wanted to know, the First Aid course was fine. Saturday was bearable as I needed a
rest. Sunday killed me as the weather
was mint. Moan moan moan grumble grumble grumble.<br />
<br />
Thanks to Iain for a great trip. He also supplied a lot of photo's for this post as my camera battery died at the start of the trip (I had not means of charging it). </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-65964325805929713432015-08-08T01:17:00.001-07:002015-08-08T03:18:02.887-07:00Mixed<div class="MsoNormal">
Some of you may remember this photo which I posted on <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/52986281@N08/">Flickr</a>
back in April. Stupidly I thought, here
we go. The start of another dry summer
in the Scottish mountains. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvPTtyuehyDlHSpUb4Y7CrBWNPMXkvsMQCx3uO_M842SL1TLwQFfkoJwAw3ethnTEBHM-6KTM8CPPQmPwpLioPvHnfV8SxRGBa8_9OCoZZ2VK_rpDFhfktMMBmjCaRyF6_-j_XhPuqcp1/s1600/glen-nevis_16653592034_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvPTtyuehyDlHSpUb4Y7CrBWNPMXkvsMQCx3uO_M842SL1TLwQFfkoJwAw3ethnTEBHM-6KTM8CPPQmPwpLioPvHnfV8SxRGBa8_9OCoZZ2VK_rpDFhfktMMBmjCaRyF6_-j_XhPuqcp1/s320/glen-nevis_16653592034_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glen Nevis in April. Too hot me me!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
However, this photo from Ian Taylor sum’s up well my summer
dress for this year.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBWGvzbt_fhji_yCE5w5I-tfrWiO4iIlYiw6rk_X8zG30NixyYRRypO9Gg3aQzWSKkLtzwgi1ysxbgz3Jc2IuiaxFRaN0V-RcQdRsALCbfL3vdbrrd3tFRAnhKSzebIJc1463PlUoGUscR/s1600/19454449370_9f0bce437d_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBWGvzbt_fhji_yCE5w5I-tfrWiO4iIlYiw6rk_X8zG30NixyYRRypO9Gg3aQzWSKkLtzwgi1ysxbgz3Jc2IuiaxFRaN0V-RcQdRsALCbfL3vdbrrd3tFRAnhKSzebIJc1463PlUoGUscR/s320/19454449370_9f0bce437d_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not complaining about the crisp red pointing conditions. (<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05">Ian Taylor</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Since returning from the Lakes, I have had only a couple of
days out trad climbing which is pretty poor for a tall, lanky, weak Scottish
trad climber. A combination of work,
lack of partners but mostly the poor weather has accounted for such a poor
tally of days out. However, the days I
have had were superb. That’s not to say
I haven’t been climbing. I have spent a
lot of the time making best use of the fresh conditions by bouldering or
clipping bolts.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JEXFCk8hRMbo5xZ-qhkvJCwp1ad0Aj-VbPdQ7Cagi53FJA4PQiVegsBbRnn37-60TtV34zWE_-r4rHYva5H90OrGXq_7sRDxVeWjOp6SvltyVDMvG2aAYgCJWfNlPiDvpfIXNuENPpT2/s1600/Wolfman.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8JEXFCk8hRMbo5xZ-qhkvJCwp1ad0Aj-VbPdQ7Cagi53FJA4PQiVegsBbRnn37-60TtV34zWE_-r4rHYva5H90OrGXq_7sRDxVeWjOp6SvltyVDMvG2aAYgCJWfNlPiDvpfIXNuENPpT2/s320/Wolfman.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing showers, and a cold biting wind on an attempt at Wolfman. The Ivy all over the bottom wasn't helping. Another time... (<a href="http://gaz-softrock.blogspot.co.uk/2015_06_01_archive.html">Gaz Marshall</a>) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyBrL12DH6ZQCZBriwgzDjtPMBSn_7OCPsXooCNlr8IQ7FY-Y44jDwEkk5_Xp93ANK8XDgK8nBgK0BdfOAa_dmCcBaA9otOW_SmFpIHJC7BdMym8YF3Ue0aQ4f2fAH_Mgm_pa7fg74tN5W/s1600/P1010449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyBrL12DH6ZQCZBriwgzDjtPMBSn_7OCPsXooCNlr8IQ7FY-Y44jDwEkk5_Xp93ANK8XDgK8nBgK0BdfOAa_dmCcBaA9otOW_SmFpIHJC7BdMym8YF3Ue0aQ4f2fAH_Mgm_pa7fg74tN5W/s320/P1010449.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colin Morrison cruising up 'Jack the Ripper'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Simon Nadin introduced me to a new crag of his up North
somewhere. Don’t ask me where it is as I
genuinely have no idea where it is apart from the fact it’s on the Caithness
coast line. I don’t even think Simon knows
properly where it is as he missed the little turn off resulting in a rapid
handbreak turn in his Berlingo to head south again. Or maybe that was to distract me from knowing
its exact location… </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite Simon not being world champion fitness at the
moment, it was still pretty impressive watching him onsight a new route which
he basically gave a brief eyeball from an ab rope which was in the wrong
place. After watching his steady casual
pace, I thought it would be piss easy.
So a lame attempt at tying my rock shoes, I followed. Elbows touching the skye, shoe laces getting
in the way, the whole rack on my harness towards the top and the rock requiring
a delicate touch. All I can say is,
never underestimate a ‘Master’! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIIxZ2KlYPh_wg9_UjfsVDAEqMfiMWmskfXlJ57gMqXfQxmtoZUGAydioWx2YrCozXduH3NKv1bjdXk7a-dem4NagT6jzcLBr5bPgXp32bhtzgAHzdrPcWvXMcRGbY4f0DAPldSpT2QmA_/s1600/P1010471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIIxZ2KlYPh_wg9_UjfsVDAEqMfiMWmskfXlJ57gMqXfQxmtoZUGAydioWx2YrCozXduH3NKv1bjdXk7a-dem4NagT6jzcLBr5bPgXp32bhtzgAHzdrPcWvXMcRGbY4f0DAPldSpT2QmA_/s320/P1010471.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon following one of his new E3's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCM14gZByhLWmgdvz0PCQuRmu7YJTqBM8o_us5N1DsgLgw2EJK8LjW1hvDUWMLiuL9bs_9YS2WlbLIixMWhamk_Lag7wDtOS4dRv4Mw1Q6XpvAU8L1vFgk-OqNRTaf6MO5Rhkez1Cw2CF1/s1600/P1010476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCM14gZByhLWmgdvz0PCQuRmu7YJTqBM8o_us5N1DsgLgw2EJK8LjW1hvDUWMLiuL9bs_9YS2WlbLIixMWhamk_Lag7wDtOS4dRv4Mw1Q6XpvAU8L1vFgk-OqNRTaf6MO5Rhkez1Cw2CF1/s320/P1010476.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon on his new route. E5 6a?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyway, my turn for a new route. I rapped the line and gave it a better look. It looked easy with good gear. Just as we went to rap in, we thought we
would let the approaching shower pass.
Well, we waited, waited, and waited.
After about 40min we thought it was going to miss so rapped in. Just as I joined Simon on the platform below,
the heavens opened and it pissed down for 30minutes. So we stood, backs against the wall trying to
stay dry. We looked out to sea, then
occasionally turned to each other commenting how shit this was. Why do we bother? It passed, I got on with the job. All went well till the final head wall which
I never even bothered to look at earlier.
A steep compact wall covered in that green shitty lichen you get at
Gogarth. Gear way below, ropes waving in
the wind and all that, I managed to uncover some sneaky crimps and
undercuts. The top out was nice and wet. Flopping onto the flat, I was filled with
that deep feeling of relief which one only gets from trad climbing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk8xkuwSreC0JRcRTKqU2nIxhK9dSaQ_uQidhZj2EpHp4mtSQuB41a2DuzX_0dvTSOOOGtGo5cJFYlPp7udKSG2hiG6A8AVc8jgILpbEcnHvthhz4gTfG4U4WOBnRLTdvLTWZobFMYVHK-/s1600/19764940429_689ef401e9_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk8xkuwSreC0JRcRTKqU2nIxhK9dSaQ_uQidhZj2EpHp4mtSQuB41a2DuzX_0dvTSOOOGtGo5cJFYlPp7udKSG2hiG6A8AVc8jgILpbEcnHvthhz4gTfG4U4WOBnRLTdvLTWZobFMYVHK-/s320/19764940429_689ef401e9_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me at the top of my new route. About E5 6a (<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/42354965@N08">Simon Nadin</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For one whole day, a ridge of high pressure was
forecast. After a quick swap around of
my days at work, Simon and I arranged to meet up at Super Crag. It was a bit like going winter climbing, you leave
the house and its 8 degrees Celsius or something. You wonder are you just wasting your time. I drove for almost two hours with the window
wipers on full questioning what the hell I was doing. It wasn’t until we reached the car park that
the blue sky appeared. Gearing up at the
top of the crag we still got hit by a heavy passing shower (We learnt our
lesson from the previous week, wait).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anyway, we did some cool routes; Personal Minglay, Moonman,
Roda Mhor and TIFS. TIFS was quite
exciting. An Ian Taylor E6 6b. The crux is fairly bold, blind and pretty
committing above a reasonable cluster of kit.
I wasn’t jumping up and down with excitement to test it really. At the end of the run out, you can get some
small bits of kit in then tackle the bold wall above. The climbing isn’t as hard. So I pushed on and reached a crack. Hanging on with my left arm, I had been
camped out on the hold for quite a while trying to fiddle in a wire with my
right. Just as the wire seated, my left
hand hold ripped off the wall.
Thankfully I had a nice wiry metallic handhold with my right as I would
have taken a pisser down the crag as well as testing some unconvincing kit. It’s probably fine ;-). Anyway, I topped out, Simon and I left as the
next weather front arrived…. A nice 8.5 hour
weather window. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpZeLH7XEUpdibc5T5VatXWFchEUQtFuAURTenb_TJwl4S9aMaH_Nxd782aSOMgZNvAH8NEJd9xgjXhOr_POeRlrTraeFTOIulNXfzWiuIsiDUWfKvsdk43KAHjE9o3csSGgx1mim4G4IR/s1600/20185006351_92cf1c12eb_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpZeLH7XEUpdibc5T5VatXWFchEUQtFuAURTenb_TJwl4S9aMaH_Nxd782aSOMgZNvAH8NEJd9xgjXhOr_POeRlrTraeFTOIulNXfzWiuIsiDUWfKvsdk43KAHjE9o3csSGgx1mim4G4IR/s320/20185006351_92cf1c12eb_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon following 'Moonman' (<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05">Ian Taylor</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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However, I have had numerous day clipping bolts and opening
and closing accounts with harder (for me) local sport routes. Most of my sport days have been at Creag Nan
Cadhag and Zed buttress at Brin</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwiN-8rUJHaKBZNO1K9C-44S8ocHayM5wRTwwKpcMD0mxcsz5IETnQ230XQXv8CI0eKDxPz-Mhpo3w7vxAnK2DLdnmxBzGMk9Kar6yfInSGcSrSQnMVnS8PLkmfJ32IDXs-I1e9Hkb4yMq/s1600/20010253901_00da42497b_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwiN-8rUJHaKBZNO1K9C-44S8ocHayM5wRTwwKpcMD0mxcsz5IETnQ230XQXv8CI0eKDxPz-Mhpo3w7vxAnK2DLdnmxBzGMk9Kar6yfInSGcSrSQnMVnS8PLkmfJ32IDXs-I1e9Hkb4yMq/s320/20010253901_00da42497b_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creag Nan Cadhag (<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05">Ian Taylor</a>)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I guess my highlight would be ticking Andrew Wilby’s ‘Game
Over Extension’ F8a+ at Creag Nan Cadhag.
Since then, I have been back there making an attempt at Nuclear Nightmare. Each time I try the horrific knee wrenching crux, my knee pleas no. Its not wanting another arthroscopy. Well that's my excuse ;-). So some local pumpy link ups have been added to the crag, all bailing up Nuclear Cop Out. </div>
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Some of my time has been spent playing on ‘The Force’ F8b? at Zed
buttress. For me, this is pretty
hard. It requires you to be strong and
powerful, not weak with lots of stamina.
But, the other day I made some significant progress. I need to rest now for a few days as my
joints are screaming, my skin is trashed and my shoes are falling apart. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-32694865128960494762015-06-22T03:31:00.004-07:002015-06-22T05:48:16.968-07:00Lakeland Spanking<div class="MsoNormal">
Two days before I left the Highlands to visit the Lake
District, I managed to campus 1 – 4 – 7 on the campus board at the Inverness
Climbing Wall (very unimpressive in the world of climbing, but for a weak trad
climber like me, it’s a personal highlight).
However, did this new raw power help the old school Lakes route? No, I got spanked!<o:p></o:p></div>
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So, Blair and I packed our bags and went on a week long
holiday to the Lake District. To get us
into the holiday vibe, Blair explained the theory of spontaneous road jams
occurring on motor ways. He also mentioned how
mathematical modelling is now used in town planning to help make traffic flow
more efficient . We also listened to
some shit poems. However that got
replaced pretty quickly by some Paul Oakenfold.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Anyway, arriving mid afternoon we did few
routes at Reecastle to unwind. This was my first
proper visit to the Lakes. We had it all
in front of us. Where do you go? What do you do? So many options. We had high pressure forecast for the whole
week which made the choice pretty much endless.
The turmoil in my head in choosing venues was painful. I guess I relaxed during the middle of the
week when I realised I can’t tick the Lakes in a week. We settled with visiting a new crag each day
and do a few classics. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrVh_xGqq7e7a9WXrj2CqbsVcY-WMnefOmq6spw-qUOmx4POAghXcfqHIRz7p6GCic8Guo-qxUie_egl5R-pL420ilYQKQ4l9LNQQe_uZwBwUR_ZSbYPCI-D3We_mBeNI_jt2h_12VY30/s1600/P1010316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrVh_xGqq7e7a9WXrj2CqbsVcY-WMnefOmq6spw-qUOmx4POAghXcfqHIRz7p6GCic8Guo-qxUie_egl5R-pL420ilYQKQ4l9LNQQe_uZwBwUR_ZSbYPCI-D3We_mBeNI_jt2h_12VY30/s320/P1010316.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blair starting us off with 'Guillotine'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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So the first rude surprise was the cost of parking at
Langdale. £6 or something… Thankfully
the machine was broken. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZvyaSRLcv361IIDx0s3MkkcOgjNjL2EVB9UPUVS2HqsX8zhN7LEK8CqGHDZEEzXGSEUAILcE91Yyd4H9u4mhyflqAD3gpRGHDyDTjO3wnazQdm6KATkBkFf1O0S3yE0BpCnRfEW6hfXc/s1600/P1010319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZvyaSRLcv361IIDx0s3MkkcOgjNjL2EVB9UPUVS2HqsX8zhN7LEK8CqGHDZEEzXGSEUAILcE91Yyd4H9u4mhyflqAD3gpRGHDyDTjO3wnazQdm6KATkBkFf1O0S3yE0BpCnRfEW6hfXc/s320/P1010319.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pavey Ark</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p> </o:p>One of the routes we did was 'Fallen Angel' E4. A route that 1-4-7 training had absolutely no
use for. I suspect this is more pleasant than climbing Unicorn in winter. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZWjmm9v8SP-bAIzagZenIYrMe8I27ftJQNIx60PAtJx9IcUyKa8m0ZjmU7Nsuu-qrl5z3nnvi-Q0Pv3kjt0bmM804cWcCzG9DVQCs5oqiZjdWHrgWEC4xa7LdmmBMOjhcL7cyLVVqUyv/s1600/P1010323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZWjmm9v8SP-bAIzagZenIYrMe8I27ftJQNIx60PAtJx9IcUyKa8m0ZjmU7Nsuu-qrl5z3nnvi-Q0Pv3kjt0bmM804cWcCzG9DVQCs5oqiZjdWHrgWEC4xa7LdmmBMOjhcL7cyLVVqUyv/s320/P1010323.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blair on 'Fallen Angel'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Next up was 'Sixpence' E6.
Well this was pretty cool. I was feeling pretty hesitant starting up the
flake of Eclipse. I was shocked by how bold/committing the E4 start was. But once committed, it was actually fine. From the belay below, I ignored the wall
below the groove and just assumed there would be crimps and gear all over
it. Not quite. Very technical climbing with fiddly kit. At least I could keep reversing the traverse
to a rest. The guide mentions a jug at
the horizontal break. So finally I
committed up the wall and found myself ‘laying one on’ for the break. I assumed my fingers would curl into a
jug. No they just hit a flat licheness
ledge. My body arced but I stayed on,
and found a sort of jug… Kit arranged I
went up and down the groove trying to unlock the tricky sequence. What naturally felt correct was wrong. I fell, I failed. Back on, changed my hand sequence which felt
wrong but it worked. I have made note
for next time….and to pack a brush ;-).
The rest of the groove was not a path, but I got up it fine.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhStgohHdcwZeeLgz5nSIr6SfA5so2njnnVdooiQIv7EjBDWRr_jPWIAa9hsP7CeotWJiNVJzJehSQiLZ0U-44ez_t71OEb64zCnCBu3Kr6yuGcwe1oeI7IrfSklcvgDo7lf6GktE8WZfFc/s1600/P1010327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhStgohHdcwZeeLgz5nSIr6SfA5so2njnnVdooiQIv7EjBDWRr_jPWIAa9hsP7CeotWJiNVJzJehSQiLZ0U-44ez_t71OEb64zCnCBu3Kr6yuGcwe1oeI7IrfSklcvgDo7lf6GktE8WZfFc/s320/P1010327.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recovering at the break on 'Sixpence'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN8yujRzqRhhlQj44zEBFW8PTMZ6UKu86sD8vkjbb_Ojpskuaqz1LcBfpD762X0QeaMYzE-yZiSfMpVbBtog6fopXOLg_lBmqvXoE5IisrRpTKtLFnvfv6cM0rBQ3QSmYL9bkx28PZO38/s1600/P1010332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNN8yujRzqRhhlQj44zEBFW8PTMZ6UKu86sD8vkjbb_Ojpskuaqz1LcBfpD762X0QeaMYzE-yZiSfMpVbBtog6fopXOLg_lBmqvXoE5IisrRpTKtLFnvfv6cM0rBQ3QSmYL9bkx28PZO38/s320/P1010332.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blair following 'Sixpence'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I was also educated about the American Civil War, Cold War
and The Great War. If you ask me a
question on any of these wars, I won’t know the answer. Apart from one fact I learned. Blair explained why prostitutes are called
hookers. For some reason I still remember
that.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Mirage E5 on Goat Crag in Borrowdale.
I still feel my fingers creak from that route. I unfortunately messed up the crux low down
and fell off. Lowered down, ropes
pulled, did it next go. The rest of
pitch one was pretty engaging. I assumed
it would be easy. No. Spaced small gear along with thin technical
climbing. I approached the belay. A tip off from Iain and Tony was to link this
into the next ‘6a’ pitch. So on I went. What a pitch!
A full 60m of pretty technical climbing with a pumpy finish. I’m sure linking the two pitches together,
one could award themselves a harder grade.
But since it’s the Lakes, we will keep it as E5 .<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dove Crag was high on the list as a ‘must visit’. I felt slightly intimidated standing beneath
this imposing buttress of rock. We found
ourselves warming up on the ‘bold and strenuous’ E4 called 'Explosion'. I can confirm is was bold and strenuous. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwA9hFkfKuKxvGDWmeMDCt0H1mI0JGSg-AyaOhe2N0C0wpz1QMSJLHI0fj83RlEbJthyphenhyphenm2W8LwD3qwu7-2pjRceW7AXELtlS53iO7tuy1HdfuNqqWKVyeq_YFgormQmRppeyzqzG0FEW5/s1600/P1010334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwA9hFkfKuKxvGDWmeMDCt0H1mI0JGSg-AyaOhe2N0C0wpz1QMSJLHI0fj83RlEbJthyphenhyphenm2W8LwD3qwu7-2pjRceW7AXELtlS53iO7tuy1HdfuNqqWKVyeq_YFgormQmRppeyzqzG0FEW5/s320/P1010334.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice weather. Dove Crag in the distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Bucket City E6. Yes,
there are buckets everywhere except the crux.
I was spat off this one. Again,
mid crux I was hesitant on where to go. Up to the flake? Or continue up the
crack? I hung around faffing then fell.
I had a look to see then lowered off. Ropes pulled and despatched next go. Despite the climbing after the crux being
pretty steady and positive, I still found it quite intimidating. You look up and can’t see any holds. But then these wonderful in cuts just appear.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6N_PerNsJpbkdfLJo6HFHURBOGDoJph5GlrmfbqQMB-9d4Pz0Yq6s7kdMwk9Jh-PlAS1xG2gVUPnthIxPjQ6up4F4TxmKFQ2tK69AoeY3KAtE9kGfRYB-XRiEomlNv7Hnnl0lpzwfWviI/s1600/P1010349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6N_PerNsJpbkdfLJo6HFHURBOGDoJph5GlrmfbqQMB-9d4Pz0Yq6s7kdMwk9Jh-PlAS1xG2gVUPnthIxPjQ6up4F4TxmKFQ2tK69AoeY3KAtE9kGfRYB-XRiEomlNv7Hnnl0lpzwfWviI/s320/P1010349.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relived to have passed the crux. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Dove was that good, we were back up the next day. Tony had recommended not to warm up on ‘Fast
and Furious’ with ‘The Fissure Finish’ E5.
Whatever I thought. Blair had done ‘Fast
and Furious’ the previous day so it will be easy then just move right I thought. So up I went.
At the junction I shaked out.
Glancing up at the groove there was no thread in sight. Then my eyes caught an obvious little slot
where a nice thread would be… Ballocks!
No thread. Oh well, I’ll give it
a shot and run it out or something. So
off I went, peg clipped then up to the slot.
‘Fuck!’ My elbows were touching the
skye. Somehow I managed to hang on the
shit holds, get a rock 7 off my harness, thread that, get a quick draw, clip it
onto the wire, clip my rope in, hung on, hung on, then sagged onto the rope.
Pumped, screaming in a rage about dirty rock and no threads, I got what I
deserve. My ass kicked. (Note to self: Next time, rap down, put a thread in place
and give it a quick brush). 'Fear and Fascination' E5/6 went fine. About time I got up something.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsdHcaukhgIP_3FsNn77LNKNqBkjscKW2560dzHXF2Dm2Uo9nruHLIQu7qbYip0Qubq8QBaCwK0LE_qj7yZAgK1EO54YP0Nvel76hM8M1iulwUbmHCtKXHcR-e62RYIOICN0rMnNIH4f44/s1600/P1010339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsdHcaukhgIP_3FsNn77LNKNqBkjscKW2560dzHXF2Dm2Uo9nruHLIQu7qbYip0Qubq8QBaCwK0LE_qj7yZAgK1EO54YP0Nvel76hM8M1iulwUbmHCtKXHcR-e62RYIOICN0rMnNIH4f44/s320/P1010339.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blair on 'Fast and Furious' A more appropriate grade would be E5/VII 7. The top chimney was pretty filthy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTquwbxt7xQT1BUyKWrH39x29y4eoTP6_7e-tmBvwv_i3iPC5IskkglwgzHVLfwRYfykWYpsF4eBitst5YVV7H2PFWu39pgqIYN9j6gF4tq4OD_ZCtXFPqmnvH6RTHJGrNb_sRRg0fzu_m/s1600/P1010351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTquwbxt7xQT1BUyKWrH39x29y4eoTP6_7e-tmBvwv_i3iPC5IskkglwgzHVLfwRYfykWYpsF4eBitst5YVV7H2PFWu39pgqIYN9j6gF4tq4OD_ZCtXFPqmnvH6RTHJGrNb_sRRg0fzu_m/s320/P1010351.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fear and Fascination </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Kilnsey. My first
visit. I wish I could pack this crag in
my suitecase and take it home with me. I
was seriously impressed by it. I’m not
sure the conditions were primo for our visit. It had just stopped raining on arrival with the air remaining fairly warm and humid
for the rest of the day. However, it was
superb. Again, my agenda was to ‘tick
the crag’ (you know what I mean, do all the routes I can do) but that never
quite happened. 'Dominatrix' F7c was the
highlight whilst we both provided the locals with a pantomime on ‘Pantomime’ F7b+. We finished out 9hour day there with me
starting up ‘one last route’. Some 7b on
the left hand side. I was fighting to
even get to the first bolt, let alone move past it. Quoting Dave Douglas ‘I was gone’. Time to go home.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFoMkLGd4Z9A8eTIMFUnuXBidejRdwO82kgaiIbJegZx7-31_Xv8m9xoPk8Zjx8drqvsq00BL5B5CKgo0GiPbEo9_1mOK1D3qgeNRHM0FhNSCNUfCKyqyxjpe8DHspxDDLgfqyiH3M93O/s1600/P1010356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMFoMkLGd4Z9A8eTIMFUnuXBidejRdwO82kgaiIbJegZx7-31_Xv8m9xoPk8Zjx8drqvsq00BL5B5CKgo0GiPbEo9_1mOK1D3qgeNRHM0FhNSCNUfCKyqyxjpe8DHspxDDLgfqyiH3M93O/s320/P1010356.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blair not sure if Ski Touring was ideal prep for this route.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzie_Z7ZZdYX782QG9WIuS4hOhAaXNMDjo0yBWR5eW9JQtJ03Oet4q8x1APT-ZlM7DD3548lTk_qXuAaIN5jSDMVb5a7aFT6zv_FhtxIaD9TFaGN8x43wF9mbX5D6EFdtms9-hyU-vO3e/s1600/P1010358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzie_Z7ZZdYX782QG9WIuS4hOhAaXNMDjo0yBWR5eW9JQtJ03Oet4q8x1APT-ZlM7DD3548lTk_qXuAaIN5jSDMVb5a7aFT6zv_FhtxIaD9TFaGN8x43wF9mbX5D6EFdtms9-hyU-vO3e/s320/P1010358.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No slabs</td></tr>
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There are many more cool routes to mention but I’ll leave it
there. Our trip was a success mainly due
to the fact we had a great place to hang out.
Blair’s friends, Alan and Amanda very kindly offered to let us stay at
their house for the week. I was slightly
worried prior to our arrival. They are
both mathematicians. With Blair being a
Dr of snow, I felt my Exercise Physiology background wouldn’t make the make the
standard at the dinner table. However, I
was made very welcome and had a great laugh every day. Thank you!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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The Lake District is a wonderful venue. I can’t wait for my next visit. I’m keen for some long weekends down there,
especially if this crap weather continues here in Scotland. So get in touch if you are keen. I’m aware we never even scratched the surface
of what’s on offer. However, this trip
was a great introduction and now I have a proper ticklist. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Yesterday I went for a scramble up Stac Pollaidh with
Mhairi. Skipping along the ridge soaking
up the view of Assynt did remind why I live up in the Highlands.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAQV431gTMqzVoEoQqdsRh6qef0VQZfHnwIyHVvjFIOfGo0sVOObziUzDB2s5q98Roop5z93a19n9YcVeJNpKNcXu-p7FhVZccU33FRGgtuNRDb5IduIjkul3_fBOyzk-RFXN36V80n4T/s1600/P1010361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicAQV431gTMqzVoEoQqdsRh6qef0VQZfHnwIyHVvjFIOfGo0sVOObziUzDB2s5q98Roop5z93a19n9YcVeJNpKNcXu-p7FhVZccU33FRGgtuNRDb5IduIjkul3_fBOyzk-RFXN36V80n4T/s320/P1010361.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mhairi on Stac Polliadh</td></tr>
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Although the midges are hanging about and it
seems to keep raining. But this crap weather has allowed me to work my weakness. QED is coming along nicely ;-)</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBHtGlwrPiqWDIif7zyGj6RwGvhv2IpbrkC9u7AqFTTgPdkAVVToiAcVUPGYq98wdAt7G3Kr-fNsvmDf0bUkUb4vrcd8lOR4MQzCnqMScaqd1xCtNPAcWl12WoHa43WbRJFVHNsXIrQoU/s1600/Wolfman.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBHtGlwrPiqWDIif7zyGj6RwGvhv2IpbrkC9u7AqFTTgPdkAVVToiAcVUPGYq98wdAt7G3Kr-fNsvmDf0bUkUb4vrcd8lOR4MQzCnqMScaqd1xCtNPAcWl12WoHa43WbRJFVHNsXIrQoU/s320/Wolfman.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another rain shower whilst fighting with Ivy at Duntelchaig. (Photo: Gaz Marshall)</td></tr>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02299443790830528870noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8034563194329547065.post-70767762051723470772015-05-10T02:53:00.000-07:002015-05-10T02:53:02.231-07:00Nerve Damage<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">E6 6a was
what Lawrence Hughes lead me to believe in a casual conversation one day. Then it became ‘maybe its E7 6b’. There was some strong encouragement for me to
give it an onsight attempt. In the
meantime, I thought I would see what the other sandstone technicians in the
area thought. Ian Taylor warned me ‘to
be careful with that one’ and Paul Tattersall reminded me that ‘Lawrence is a
demon on that stuff’ and ‘would have had it dialled’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Time marched
on and I was being distracted by other routes.
However, ‘Lawrences Ardmair route’, which is actually called ‘Nerve
Damage’, still remained unticked on my scrappy piece of paper. I still pondered each day whether to try
onsight it or rap it to have a look. Last October, Iain Small paid a visit to Ardmair. Obviously he showed interest in the
route. All day at work I was suffering
from major FOMO. Then a text from Iain
that evening. In summary, he tried to
onsight it, but got shut down. That was
enough for me. We all know that Iain Small
is an onsight weapon and would have dug deeper than anyone else… He climbed it the following day after rapping
it and a play on a top rope. Comments of
‘slapping for the finishing holds’, ‘its pretty run out’ and ‘you wouldn’t want
to fall from the top’ played havoc in my mind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The winter
came and kind of went, this route was still unticked. We are in the month of May now. We shouldn’t be considering bold routes on
sandstone that require winter friction.
However, we have been blessed by a persistent winter. Plenty of cold air and fresh snow even to low
levels. Now most of you would think all
I would do is moan about how shit this is.
Well you are wrong. I’m turning
negatives into positives here. These conditions
are perfect for working my weaknesses.
Bouldering and considering this route up at Ardmair. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirrd-Ijd0_yoKr64iiBb3m57vNS1QzqTzaTlmf-antIg-dyOJpUeYCBieoJ8WGX9hcG1RJAwCap8-MW5PUGNShOoKBhkHzXZmwQWNfFlKNYI_pjCovNE8VoIRHWQI22pnmtvyUIfkPN8eT/s1600/P1010094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirrd-Ijd0_yoKr64iiBb3m57vNS1QzqTzaTlmf-antIg-dyOJpUeYCBieoJ8WGX9hcG1RJAwCap8-MW5PUGNShOoKBhkHzXZmwQWNfFlKNYI_pjCovNE8VoIRHWQI22pnmtvyUIfkPN8eT/s320/P1010094.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Teallach looking wintery</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">One day, I
went up to Ardmair armed with everything.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">
</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Brushes, bouldering pads, shunt, wires, more wires etc.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">You name it, I had it.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Having walked past the boulder problems on
Arapiles wall for over 10 years now, I have never tried any of them.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">So it was cool to finally mess around on
various traverses and up problems.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">I think
the highlight was ‘Billabong (Font 6b)’.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">
</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">At the finishing jug, I thought it would be easy to solo on to the big
ledge.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">I got a bit committed and gripped thinking it
would be jugs all the way.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">No, just
sandy, gritty, licheness rounded holds.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">
</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Not helped by the fact the sun came out from behind a cloud and my chalk
bag was on the ground.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Ironically
‘Lawrence’s’ crack (Font 7a)’ which actually finishes on the ledge went much
easier… I digress.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Rapping down
the wall, I spied out various slopey holds and pebbles. There was a distinct lack of kit though. I was aware that at ‘the nose’ there was a
good cluster of kit. But that was miles
away. So I played about for a while
trying various sequences. By the end of
the day I was spent. How does a vertical
piece of sandstone do that to you?! Not
helped by the fact, the whole thing looks easy from the ground. Anyway, I left the crag that day feeling
psyched. Late night shopping on a
Thursday meant I could splash out and purchase a new Lapiss brush from the shop
minutes before they closed. That’s how
psyched I was! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWTD-QV9eO7m_MEEfgCJmt133Vjbflzs4g5Q_SCQLMS9amf-gSNdZtnZkrm3G71KFoD5b9UHlRX9Fm03JZnqKJdGtDpAs2ei9cnDNGtUVZvViX0zu3ujfrPWCRkBEaEohacC0ou-n2YJs/s1600/P1010097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTWTD-QV9eO7m_MEEfgCJmt133Vjbflzs4g5Q_SCQLMS9amf-gSNdZtnZkrm3G71KFoD5b9UHlRX9Fm03JZnqKJdGtDpAs2ei9cnDNGtUVZvViX0zu3ujfrPWCRkBEaEohacC0ou-n2YJs/s320/P1010097.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nerve Damage follows the line of the rope.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhZUGD9qt7pfpGf4pp7EV6c4_MFxqUQ01encurtrN67EHDiKdblx2X0jS67WE_wawcltjCy0atXeaWLmqG8qn-tJ9Wbh0RfsW3RZTlc941_4MLNwg7LKdvfOE4MKY-BKgKk1a1Aeez-A6I/s1600/P1010098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhZUGD9qt7pfpGf4pp7EV6c4_MFxqUQ01encurtrN67EHDiKdblx2X0jS67WE_wawcltjCy0atXeaWLmqG8qn-tJ9Wbh0RfsW3RZTlc941_4MLNwg7LKdvfOE4MKY-BKgKk1a1Aeez-A6I/s320/P1010098.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zoomed in. Good kit at the nose.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinDJmqZDh8ZSia_2a7HGhXmOZoHR0glyHNxvGNnaeWeDUFzMb4hyphenhyphenJVGzJPuMDXcPS5OWzIiFcQSuo9yx53XcCUaaIFrI3VjbrE9llSqWSB9DTixAFqOQ2U_J3dRh_Dvp1wzVMegWJCBw7y/s1600/P1010105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinDJmqZDh8ZSia_2a7HGhXmOZoHR0glyHNxvGNnaeWeDUFzMb4hyphenhyphenJVGzJPuMDXcPS5OWzIiFcQSuo9yx53XcCUaaIFrI3VjbrE9llSqWSB9DTixAFqOQ2U_J3dRh_Dvp1wzVMegWJCBw7y/s320/P1010105.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worn out</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">That night I
arranged with Lawrence to go back on Sunday evening as it was forecast to be
cold north easterlies . Everyone told me
it was going to rain. I found a forecast
suggesting it wasn’t. It pissed with
rain all day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Uisdean
Hawthorn had just arrived back from a very successful alpine trip. I persuaded him up to Ardmair. I think the main selling point was, the 10m
crack of ‘Unleash the Beast’ is more impressive than the Dru Coulier Direct. Well the climbing will be harder at least ;-)
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7AV3PvxRvtlZobuG7sihYyKuXob8XkLOYutWIEksACogCVazfyxz8JW0StyljVbGyGlzZt_XLKZBKkWWO7KAXm831o9NKJGWe4BOVCRKqtTKbq9SVGrh9Anegeqec23jDOKDBjlmReeWP/s1600/P1010123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7AV3PvxRvtlZobuG7sihYyKuXob8XkLOYutWIEksACogCVazfyxz8JW0StyljVbGyGlzZt_XLKZBKkWWO7KAXm831o9NKJGWe4BOVCRKqtTKbq9SVGrh9Anegeqec23jDOKDBjlmReeWP/s320/P1010123.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Unleash the Beast'. Much more impressive than...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnt3jS5ZVT5oOcZ_mDeOpkopPDDjOBwCemWD4yEFMaiGZtCsp0Kk8tf84YI-cMCnddQMqavXQHh_S7-USXJRYJjkPFLg8gHkz6pGE7L1zTcO-dLZ4R2YZ0H5AbL1ubppO69mqzEHuBfY-H/s1600/dru.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnt3jS5ZVT5oOcZ_mDeOpkopPDDjOBwCemWD4yEFMaiGZtCsp0Kk8tf84YI-cMCnddQMqavXQHh_S7-USXJRYJjkPFLg8gHkz6pGE7L1zTcO-dLZ4R2YZ0H5AbL1ubppO69mqzEHuBfY-H/s320/dru.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...This. Uisdean on Dru Coulier Direct (Photo Guy Steven)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Whilst
holding Uisdeans ropes on ‘Totem Pole Crack’, I was busy glancing round the
corner at the cool VS called ‘Moondance’.
It just seems like yesterday that I was resting on gear and taking
multiple lops of it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Giving Nerve
Damage a chalk and brush, I played on the moves. They felt desperate. What had changed? Everything was off balance and I kept falling
off. My mind was in turmoil. Was this going to be another long term thing that I’ll never do? With a few subtle
changes of body position, the sequence was unlocked. It suddenly felt easy. However it is still very intricate and one
wrong move, you were off. That was
playing at the back of my mind all day. We stood back and looked at the crag. ‘What a line’ I said, Uisdean looked at me
and just laughed. ‘Get a grip’ he said. Playing devil’s advocate with each
other all day and winding each other up, beneath it all I could sense his focus
on this bigger mountains was beginning to outweigh technical rock climbs. That boy will go far so keep an eye on
him. Anyway, more to the point, was I
going to die if I fell from the crux?
Hard to tell, but you would be taking a ride down the whole crag with 2 ledges
to hit. Without rope stretch you would
go miles. We all fall further than you
think. So it was best not to think about
it. Iain had sent me a reassuring
message in the morning, ‘just switch off and go for it!’ <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">After some
patient waiting, the shade arrived.
Suddenly the fear hit, what was stopping me? Tying on I could feel a sudden rise in
anxiety. Uisdean broke the silence and
said, ‘you’re not falling off, you’ve pissed up it already’. Wise words from the mountaineer so off I
went. I arranged the crucial kit at the
nose then reversed the moves to the ledge.
Suddenly I had that urge which some of you know. I managed to erase it from my mind by
chatting about the Tories and SNP. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Placing the kit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzUp5rBpgr4utGnPg7sWZzQtqCUMlsgResXQVIzcby-cVV9s-amMWdby5IuvCTOvnTm_qTQGPpvdbIeW6TNQmqZlZMRG92YGFnZVTLYWvRUolCQ7-Zyg1o27Fws0QgOxJ9UF9-fKMz1nb/s1600/P1010132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzUp5rBpgr4utGnPg7sWZzQtqCUMlsgResXQVIzcby-cVV9s-amMWdby5IuvCTOvnTm_qTQGPpvdbIeW6TNQmqZlZMRG92YGFnZVTLYWvRUolCQ7-Zyg1o27Fws0QgOxJ9UF9-fKMz1nb/s320/P1010132.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ranting about politics. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Off I went,
heel hook in… the next minute I was on the finishing jugs just below the top of
the crag.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Yay! I thought.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">But I hadn’t actually practiced the top
out.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">It’s just a typical Ardmair sloping
mess.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">My Ardmair apprenticeship bailed
me out.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">So what do I
think? It’s tough to grade. I haven’t done much of this head pointing
before. If it all goes well, it feels
easy. But all it takes is one wrong hand
or foot position and you are taking the E7/8 ride resulting in some form of
Nerve damage…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">So here is the route description. Click on the name and it will take you to an updated guide to the crag along with some cool photo's</span></div>
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<strong style="line-height: 18.4pt;"><span style="color: #030303; font-family: "proxima-nova",serif; font-size: 10.5pt;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://www.northwestoutdoors.co.uk/northwestoutdoorsullapool/2014/11/ardmair-update.html?rq=ardmair">45B Nerve Damage</a></span></span></strong></div>
<div id="yui_3_17_2_2_1431168897086_7336" style="background: white; line-height: 18.4pt;">
<span style="font-family: proxima-nova, serif; font-size: 10.5pt;">E7/8 6c*** 25m 2011<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: proxima-nova, serif; font-size: 10.5pt;">Well named - an incredible pitch up the
obvious blank seamed headwall between Cruel World and Colour Co-ordinated.
Desperate, insecure and intricate climbing above tricky micro-gear would make
this a very hard onsight, the upgrade from E7 may be conservative! Climb Cruel
World and swing right to the ledge. Tricky moves lead to the nose and gear
(strenuous to place), then more hard moves gain a standing position and
micro-gear (blind to place). Powerful and technical cruxes above lead left and
up to good holds just below the top. Pull over with a lot of relief.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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