I think most of us would agree, our weather over the last
few weeks has been pretty good. My trad
climbing this year has had a bit of a slow start. After returning from a great trip to St Leger
in the south of France, I just assumed I would get straight back into trad
climbing. However, I received a text
message from Ian Taylor. It said, ‘I
have two words for you. Loch
Maree’. There is a new crag that
received super crag status. Loch Maree
crag. But I am not talking about the
trad crag (which only gets ‘pretty good crag’ status), but the trad crags
steep, long and bloody impressive side wall.
To cut a long story short, this has recently been developed by Ian as a
sport climbing venue. Ian has put in a
great effort with a few epic stories. I
concluded that visitors like me have it easy. Climbing the routes is the easy bit. For those keen, you will need to wait till
the autumn till he brings a topo out.
The crag is closed now due to the midges. I guess you could visit the crag out of
season, but you do so at your own risk.
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| Loch Maree Super Crag is the extensive right wall. (Photo: Ian Taylor) |
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| Crag guardian |
Whilst the weather was becoming warmer at the start of May,
everyone was out fiddling with their wires.
Meanwhile, Ian, Calum, Mhairi and myself were greasing off and getting
attacked by birch flies at Loch Maree. I
saw sense that week and made my annual visit to Caithness to climb on the sea
cliffs there. Simon Nadin introduced me to a new
gem of his, I might need to make another trip up.
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| Simons Crag. Somewhere between Tain and Wick. |
The forecast showed the return of Northelies
accompanied by showers. I sensed
frustration amongst the trad climbers.
Deep down I was relieved. Ian
very kindly offered me to try a bolted line of his. Knowing that time was ticking, the midge was
waiting, summer was approaching, the door was closing, I had to get back to Loch Maree. Hafgufa 8a/+ dispatched on the
15
th May.
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| Me on Hafgufa (Photo: Ian Taylor) |
Now I can focus on my summer trad. But stupidly I opened an account with a Richie Betts classic,‘The
Scientist’ f7B at Brin with Gaz. What the hell are
you doing Murdoch?!! But I can't leave it. Gaz went back a dispatched. The fresh Easterlies created a paradise in the west. However, it was cool, overcast and breezy in
the east. Again, deep down I was secretly
relieved. I nipped up after work one day
and dispatched. Knowing Iain Small was
cragging in Glen Nevis gave me FOMO, but I couldn’t keep the account open. Walking away content, Sussirus f7C caught my
eye. It would have been rude not to give
it a shot. Hoping I would find the
campus move desperate at the end, this would mean no account could be opened. With no expectations, I did the last few moves of this inspiring problem. For Fuck
Sake! I lost myself for the rest of the
day under the roof. The line got drawn
and I saw sense. I will return in the
autumn…
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| Me demonstrating wrong beta (Photo: Mhairi Stewart) |
But you will be glad to know, I still am a trad climber. A big black line had been drawn through my work diary for the last few days of May and the first week of June. Iain Small had been penned in. By now, the ground in the west is crisp. North By North West E7 6b escaped my 2014 list. So it was first up. Having never seen a second ascent, I shat my
pants as I left the belay. Another Storky
E7. After a flash pump, a few lobs I
reached the top. Iain onsighted
it on my gear then I went and made a clean ascent with my gear in place. What a wall!
I was glad to hear from Rick Campbell after. He mentioned Storky did that ground
up without abseil inspection. Very
impressive.
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| Iain E7 ledge shuffling on North By North West. |
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| Lowering off after a failed first go (Photo: Iain Small) |
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| Over the crux (Photo: Iain Small) |
Ben Nevis was paid a visit where we climbed ‘Boadicea’ E4 6a and a
line of Iain and Tony’s. The wall right for Sassenach. Immaculate climbing on immaculate rock. I highly recommended route for anyone
operating at that grade of E6.
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| Carn Dearg Buttress |
Gaz Lead me up 'Jack The Ripper' E1 5b on Stac Polly. A superb route on a superb cliff. Ian Taylor dragged himself away from Loch Maree and established another pitch of climbing to the left of Walking on
Air. He gave me the details and we
repeated it. We confirmed its about E5
6a. So, for those who have ticked the
wall, but avoiding Fear of Flying, this is another enjoyable pitch to do.
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| Gaz on Jack the Ripper |
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| Stac Pollaidh |
In amongst all that numerous other routes were done. A fight with greasy Culach E5 gave an uncalled
for workout on a cool down route. How I
never fell off it but more the fact that Mhairi never slapped me for taking ages, I do not know.
Whimpering, whinging, grumbling.
It was all occurring. Delayed Attack E3 6a reminded me that my 3 week holiday to Squamish will be shit in August.
It’s raining today in Inverness. Its dry and breezy in the far north
West. I have FOMO but need a rest.
Tomorrow, play will be resumed.
And if you forget your wellies...
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| Photo: Ian Taylor |
