Murdoch Jamieson: April 2025

Finally, I got myself wedged into the flake of Nocando Crack. I looked down to see Jim, head down, hood up, not moving very much. Obviously the wind was howling and the light was fading like it always is in all these epic winter stories. I was also fed up, but not as much as Jim was. I was having a battle with pitch two of The Vicar in Lochan - a stern lochan grade VII. I fell off low down, then fought my way up the cracks to finally get established on a little ledge before you start climbing the upper arete. Unable to commit after many attempts, I bailed left onto Nocando. A mixed feeling of, thank god it was over with much disappointment at my lack of commitment. This was a cold stormy day in January 2011. I went back with Guy in January 2013 and we climbed The Vicar in Good style (You can read my account in an old blog somewhere if you can be arsed looking for it). When climbing the route, I kept looking left into Nocando Crack. That looks easy, I’ll do that next…

It's been a long time since I've written a blog post. They seem to have gone out of fashion a bit. However, many friends over many years, particularly Chadders, have always requested it was brought back to life. I don’t know why. The last post must have been about the big whipper on the Ben with Iain Small. Anyway, here is a ramble about 2 magical days in March of this year.

Not many people climb Nocando Crack in winter. I’ve stood at the bottom of it many times and shied away as the crack oozed with ice. Jamie Skelton and I did try it once, but I backed off, unable to commit to the bold and icy cracks on pitch 2. This route became a thing in my head every winter. As we all know, this winter has been pretty fickle. During the first week of March, I went for a run - walk, well, more of a walk with Emma and her dog Inver up twin ribs and Fiacaill ridge. I pointed out to Emma and Inver how ice free everything was and all it would take would be some northeries to blast the crags with some snow. Emma gave a glazed look back; she was more interested in when it would snow again for her to go skiing. There was a bit of snow in the forecast, but I don’t think either of us anticipated the magical winter days to come over the next week or so.

Corie an t - Sneachtda looking lean on 7th March 2025

A week later there were reports of the crags being buried, gear was hard won and the skiing was unreal. I love Scotland. Rob Giddy and I debated whether to go skiing or climbing. It doesn't take much persuasion to get me on my skis over winter climbing these days. It's just so much better. Anyway, we opted for a winter climbing day. The walk in was easy. Rob kept me entertained with his latest life story. What to climb? Everything was buried in thick rime. There was no question whether it was ‘in’ or not like it had been in previous week. If I was ever going to do Nocando Crack, today was the day. Absolutely plastered in rime, but relatively dry underneath. Rob was sent up the first pitch. It looks easy but it’s not. I’m glad he did it as it's all just awkward mantles onto slopey granite ledges with an exciting steep wall to get onto the belay ledge. Well done Rob.

Rob on Pitch 1 of Nocando Crack

No. 4 Buttress

I was instantly shitting my pants as I started up pitch 2. The whole time, looking for an excuse to retreat. It took a bit of courage to commit. Clipping an old insitu icy bit of tat got me started. A few more moves up, I clipped an insitu bulldog then I managed to tap in wallnut 2. I’m not sure how good it was due to the pull, but better than nothing. The route was heavily rimed which provided a satisfying challenge in uncovering the sequence. A crack in the right wall kept teasing me up. It was taking the first tooth of my pick. I could see these little flares in it, hoping I could seat another wire, but no, nothing. Creeping up, battling demons, I kept wanting to climb back down. I was really battling the urge. However, that was the only thing keeping me going, I was certain I could reverse every move. It would be flipping terrifying, but I could dig deep if I wanted to. I got to the point where I was well above my last piece of gear. I’m not going any higher. Managing to batter a small DMM terrier half into the tight crack on the right wall, again that was better than nothing. I also managed to tap a bulldog into some crumbling ice in the wide groove slot thing on my left. It might have held the weight of my jacket if I decided to take it off. Questing on, fuck sake, what am I doing? Before I knew it, the ropes were properly waving between me and my last two pieces. Just for reference, I don't go looking for this sort of thing! Rob was doing the maths and I was doing the maths, but we never discussed our workings and final answer. Finally a nice tapered slot which would take a chunky hex nicely. But my ax was taking up space. It was a good tool so I was happy but not happy. I could see I would have to commit even more, get my tools into a thinner crack and feet onto smaller footholds to free up the slot, FFS. Finally the psyche arrived, I moved up, a hex got battered into the slot. The tension in the air finally burst, thank god. I’m not sure who was more relieved, me or Rob. The rest of the pitch was strenuous, but with gear at least. Not totally piss with some icy cracks requiring some careful gear placements.

Me clearing rime off pitch 2 of Nocando Crack
Photo: Robert Giddy

Rob enjoying pitch 2

Rob is part of the rapidly expanding young team based in Inverness. From what I can see, Rob gets the rope up the pitch. A fit, strong lad, super psyched but not in an annoying way, with a good head on his shoulders - definitely someone you want on your side. The final pitch, the difficulties are short lived but stubborn. Straight off the belay, the climbing is in your face. Thankfully Rob was on lead. I could relax, he wasn’t backing down. Front points pasted on granite crystals, tenuous spaced hooks requiring some committing and strenuous pulls between them, finally Rob got himself wedged in the big flake. After a few wriggles, he was onto the exit ledges.

Finally Nocando Crack was climbed. The weight of mystery and wonder finally lifted off my shoulders. It’s a stiff route but what would you expect from a Lochan grade VII. It's good to get humbled by these routes in the Northern Cairngorms. I love them as it keeps my ego in check.

Skiing is pretty good, however, an experience like Nocando, is hard to beat. A few days later, I found myself and my skis on Braeriach with team strong: Emma, Tom & Huw. I find the contrast between skiing and climbing fascinating. Onsight climbing happens at a much slower rate and is steady. You can sometimes find yourself strung out, holding stress positions for long periods of time, looking for gear, holds, sequences with no quick exit from it, particularly if the protection is tricky. You feel the difficulty and sort of creep into it. Skiing on the other hand, there is no creeping. You can't test moves out and reverse to shake out. It's about forward momentum, and committing your weight forward when you naturally want to recline (which I'm unintentionally an expert at).

Tom, Huw and Emma

The weather looked mint on the Tuesday. An annual leave day deployed from me, a rearrangement of work for Huw, left Emma in a panic as she was working. Somehow after some negotiation Emma was also available. Tom was genuinely off. I guess when you see those rare days of good conditions coming up, all stops need to be pulled as conditions don’t last forever. A sweaty cycle up Glen Einich for Tom, Huw and I as Emma drafted in behind on an electric bike saw us to almost the head of Loch Einich.

A windy walk then skin brought us to the top of the Northside of Garbh Choire Mor. The sun was softening the steep bullet hard snowpack nicely. As a climber, I would have to turn in and down climb the top section of the slope, yet as a skier you just slide in on a set of skis. Its pretty nuts. Anyway, I was more than happy to see someone else go first here. This was not climbing. What both sports share though is the need to be confident and committed but in different ways. Confidence to start a crux sequence; confidence to drop in and commit to that first turn. Skiing, it's over in a short space of time. It's all happening quickly, turns need to be executed and you have to be confident, there is no just stopping to hang on and shake out which I like to do.

Emma dropped in first and made some neat effortless turns. Tom followed, again more neat effortless turns. Then it was my go. Having the encouragement from below, I committed. Somehow I managed to make some turns and survive my way down. The tension was broken, the same feeling as banging in a hex on Nocando. Everyone could breathe a sigh of relief - MJ got down in one piece. More lines skied with beaming grins and laughter, fueled my mums Christmas cake. One of those magical days with good friends which I'll never forget. I’ve had a few trips to Norway and the Alps with my skis. Whilst these are amazing destinations, there is something much more special about days out like these close to home.