I must have be swapping hands, swapping sides, shifting body
positions, upping and downing for at least half an hour. The sweat was pouring out, my mouth was dry
and I felt rather puzzled. Holding the
ropes was a young Peter Herd. He was sat
back, strapped in and loving the turmoil I was in. We all know that I like to hang on, but I was
getting a bit bored. Unfortunately I was
just not seeing the sequence. Eventually
I committed…. (About bloody time Pete was thinking!), then I was off. Mouth dry, arms buggerd. I had nothing left to give...not even a quiet Murdoch rage. I was ‘gone’ as Dave Douglas would say. This was my attempt on Surgical Lust E7 6b on
Scimitar Ridge in the Llanberis Pass.
Being a Scot who enjoys moaning about everything, the moan of the day
was it was too hot and sunny. So we
waited all flipping day for the sun to disappear round the corner. Even when it did, I was moaning it was still
too warm. So basically after my late
start on the route, it was almost dark by the time Pete lowered me off. Anyway, those of you who know the topography
of Scimitar Ridge will know it is a total ballache. 2 Laps of the crag to retrieve gear left me
rather toasted.
Pete on 'Roc Nest - Monster' |
Me on 'Surgical Lust' (Photo: Peter Herd) |
The Following day was forecast to be overcast, windy and the threat of rain. Thank god. However, Pete’s luck was out. He got himself involved with Roc Nest - Monster E4 6a as the sun popped out. But, he dispatched in good style. Thankfully the clouds returned and it started to rain for my attempt. At least it was crisp and the friction was good. Just the change in conditions allows the grumpy Scot to focus and feel alive. Surgical Lust dispatched with no faff.
North Stack Wall |
North Stack Wall. That’s an interesting cliff. I sent Pete up Blue Peter E4 5c. Mainly because the route included his name and he had a blue top on. I must admit I felt quite responsible sending the lad up this serious route; a bit unsure how he would deal with this nature of climbing. North Stack Wall is a stressful place. Friable rock and poor gear, it’s not a place for the faint hearted. Anyway, a steady methodical approach, it was my turn to feel impatient belaying. However, Pete topped out glowing. Not bad Gogarth initiation.
The Clown E7 6b has remained unticked on my scribbled list
for a few years. It still remains
unticked. I did give it a look but
stuggled to fully commit over the roof.
My feet were even over the roof, I just faced a mental block on each
attempt so made the desperate down climb, grappling the soapy undercuts. The onsight still remains for another
day. The Long run E5 6a, gave an
exciting escape route. I find it quite
interesting the whole trad game. Bouldering
all winter and 10 days in Chulilla with Russell Birkett gives you a load of
strength and fitness. Then you strap a
rack on and switch to fiddling shitty gear in, it’s a different ball game. For me anyway. I must admit, I expected to just to pick up
where I left off last October. However, I was a tad rusty. But, I’m
on it now!
A week in North Wales sends my head into turmoil. To move, or not to move. A week of concentrated trad climbing just
reminded me of its ease of access and quality.
But, it’s not Scotland. No doubt
I’ll be back down later in the year to redeem myself on North Stack Wall.
Pete on 'Comes the Dervish'
Me on the 'Flashdance/Belldance combo' (Photo:Peter Herd) |
Retuning home after a week of fine weather, I was shocked to
be knee deep in snow on Ben Stack one evening after work. A shit winter which has decided to prolong
itself was becoming a bit frustrating.
Back to the boulders, wall and hill runs for me. Walking from my car to
the office door one day was not dissimilar to setting off into the Northern
Corries from the Cas car park. In fact,
how would I know, I would get out the car! A week later, I found myself messing
around on a bone dry Cullin Ridge in a T-shirt.
Scotland, you got to love it!
Spring high pressure pushed in with an easterly airflow. The west coast of Scotland becomes the most
wanted place to be on the planet. Skye
seemed to be the fashionable place to be, so off I went!
Part 2 is written, but I need to keep my 4 week delay in publishing.
The Cullin |
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