Guy Steven had me booked in for a weekends climbing months
in advance. With Guy training to become
a Guide, he has learnt the ability to look into the future and predict the mint
weather.
Well this 2 day weekend grew arms and legs and became a 5
day trip. Anna Wells got in touch and expressed
interest about doing the Skye ridge in a day.
I reacted to this and was keen, but not at the start of a climbing
weekend. So we bartend and settled for a
wrecky of the technical sections from Sgurr nan Eag to the Inn Pinn. I have spent a fair amount of time on the Cullin
for myself and guiding people. But, it
was cool to look at it from a different perspective and actually solo the
standard rope sections. Despite having a
few grades in hand TD gap was playing havoc with my mind. I guess I have only
ever glared at that steep greasy wall whilst rapping in. The day Anna and I approached the gap it was
bone dry. So no need to faff, I just
turned in and off I went. Ok, its not
ground breaking news as Peter Herd says, ‘an E7 climber down climbs a severe’. But it’s not just a bog standard severe, its
TD gap. I felt a bit guilty as I soloed
down with the rope in my bag so poor Anna had to keep the standard and follow. Then
of course there is the solo out. This
time, I ran the rope out as Anna was keen to have a proper look at this
grovel. I was due home on the Sunday
night. But, just pottering about on the
ridge that Thursday, I realised that this spell of weather was the time to strike
and do a quickish day traverse. With no
plans for the Monday, I mentioned to Anna I was going to stay on Skye. She has a proper job and had to work. So that gave her a bit of FOMO.
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| The Cullin |
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| Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Sgur Thealach & Sgurr Alistair |
Anyway, enough of that mountaineering non sense. I was here to go climbing. Guy and I teamed up on the Friday and headed
off to Bla Bheinn. Stairway to Heaven E5
6a was on the cards. A classic Fowler
route featuring in the iconic book Extreme Rock. As we turned left out of Broadford, we bumped
into Donald King who was at a loose end.
Three people carrying kit sounded much more appealing and sociable so
Donald jumped in for the ride. I was loving
the chat on the walk in; in summary, if there was any traverses, put all the
gear on Donalds rope and none Guys. That
seems fair. Despite the sun beating
down, the Great Prow was I the shade on arrival. The wind was howling up the gully and it was
flipping baltic. Guy whipped out his
multiple layers and so did I. Meanwhile
Donald put his goretex over his sweaty t-shirt and shivered. Guy was nominated for Pitch 1 & 2. I was sent off up pitch 3 leaving those 2
monkeys to discuss equalising anchors and clove hitches. I have heard mixed reports about this pitch. Some says its fine, others say it’s not
fine. Well I put the cams in and made
the traverse right. Much longer than I
was anticipating. Superb absorbing
climbing to say the least. I’ll let you
go and find out. Anyway, the best bit
was yet to come. Donald was on the left
hand rope. When he arrived at the cams,
he eyeballed the traverse, then the rope running diagonally up to me…with no
kit in. ‘Oh’ he said. Well, between me and him, we managed to
arrange a back rope. Guy too wanted the
same treatment. Just as well there was
an insitu old cam in place…. The rest of
the day went like clockwork with first class banter.
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| Guy on Pitch 1 of 'Stairway to Hevan' |
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| Guy following Pitch 3 of 'Stairway to Heavan' |
Guy and I planned to go into have a look at Skye Wall E7 6b
on the Saturday. This interested
Donald. I felt a bit bad as Guy was
giving his time to me and now Donald also wanted to donate a day. Suddenly I felt a bit of pressure to perform. But I was reassured they were in it for the
day out. With a strong support team,
they requested to get the boat in from Elgol rather than the long slog over
from Glen Brittle which I planned on doing.
I couldn’t argue.
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| The Cullin from Elgol |
Aware that Calum Muskett had been there a few days prior,
the wall was well chalked. I’m sure Gaz
Marshall would have been disgusted. I
was in two minds whether to give it an onsight attempt or to rap it and try a
few moves. I played safe and rapped
it. It is a serious route in the middle
of nowhere. I know caff onsighted it
last October, but as we all know, he is on a different planet. Blessed with a strong support team who
specialise in building belays, Donald and Guy were on the case. Rapping the wall, was cool. I checked the
gear and played on some moves. All in
all, the main pitch boils down to a bold first 3rd where the
climbing is thin and technical, quite away above kit. Then after that, the gear
starts to improve and the climbing still remains at high quality, but a bit
easier. I eyeballed the first pitch as I
was busting for the toilet on the way past.
Arriving on the ground I couldn’t get my harness off quick enough and
run. With a lighter body, I racked up
and went for it.
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| Not a shit place to hangout |
Pitch 1 is a perfect E6
pitch in its own right. Thin gear, with
a few hollow holds which you need to pull but not pull on. Proper climbing. Guy followed in good style proving that the Guides
scheme training is not hampering his climbing ability. Pitch 2 went without a hitch. I guess that’s the difference between onsight
and having inspected the route. I do
love the onsight feeling, but it was nice just to relax a bit on the route and
take in the surrounding atmosphere. Guy
as always did a sterling job following.
I am incredibly lucky as its pretty tough to find a partner willing to
give their day up and allow you to lead the whole route whilst they sort all
the back ground faff. Cheers Guy! I lead us up a 60 m pitch to easier ground
then guy lead the final 8m V diff ground.
Donald met us at the top and was back on the case sorting ropes and kit
as I stood there faffing about. To end
the day we did some wonderful esoteric scrambling over An Dorus to get us into
Glen Brittle. A perfect day that I won’t
forget. Thanks to Donald and Guy for
their time and knowledge; a memorable day in the mountains which I won’t
forget.
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| Me on pitch 2 of 'Skye Wall' (Photo: Donald King) |
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| Guy and Donald. A pair of legends. Thanks guys. |
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| The Cullin at the end of the day from Elgol |
I
had a message from Anna saying she had managed to swap
shifts and was able to join me for a ridge traverse on Monday. I was a bit toasted on the Sunday morning, so
I just went and ran a few of the hills in the Red Cullin as an active rest day.
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| The Cullin |
We had a sociable walk in with Peter and Amy. They planned the ridge over 2 days. The weather was a bit weird. Howling wind in glen brittle which lasted all
the way up into Coir’ a Ghrunnda. This
put a bit of doubt in my mind for making quick progress. But popping out onto the ridge, none!
Dropping sacks off on the ridge, one must face the psychological torture of having
to go out to Gars Beinn to start properly on the southerly top. With this fine weather there were a few other
team out. We came across a solo runner
and a pair of runners. I could sense a
slight unsaid superiority. They were runners
and we were punters. I never mentioned
this to Anna, but I think she could sense my competitiveness. Anyway, off they went jogging into the
distance. Never mind. Anyway, we were here to enjoy the day and not
race other teams. So off we went at 9.07am. Trotting back along the ridge towards Sgurr
Nan Eag, I could feel the early tingle of a blister. Bugger.
I retied my shoes and that was forgotten about. Anyway, continuing on, Anna was setting a
good pace uphill. She had rested legs whereas this was my 5th day
on. the hill. Dropping down and around An Casteil,
we momentarily discussed going out to Sgurr Dubh Mor. The guide suggests it’s not part of the ridge
but I couldn’t bring myself to miss it out.
Neither could Anna. So we kept
pure and went out. To our surprise we me
our running friends. ‘Ah ha, hmm, that’s
interesting’ I thought. Tagging the
summit, they were hot on our heels back over Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. I could see that they were not quite as hot
on moving on actual scrambling ground.
The solo runner was all over the place.
He asked if I had been here before.
My reply ‘a few time’. He too
decided to follow the slip stream. On
the summit the runners took the lead. I
knew TD gap would cause a bit of a block.
So I upped the pace, poor Anna, hanging in. But it had to be done. The little climb leading up to TD gap, they
paused and that was enough for me to step in front. Looking into the gap, they halted
completely. I reversed and started to
climb down. I told Anna to take a moment
and not rush. Our pair of running
friends gazed down and realised that these to lanky punters were not hanging
about. To be fair we had some friendly
banter with the guys. They were really
nice chaps. But at the top of the gap on
the north side, enough was said and we were off as they were tangled with their
ropes. Moving quickly but cautiously we
covered ground quickly. I was delighted
to top out of Kings Chimney to find a new sling and new DMM Boa. That made my day. Even if I we never finished the ridge, my
find was enough to keep me happy. Gazing
back, no runners to be seen. A quick
bite and off we went. We operated in our
own wee worlds. Clambering up An Stac, I
glanced at my watch. Hmm late morning. Two thoughts entered my head. 1st
Finlay is 2/3rds along the ridge now and 2nd I bet there will be guided parties all over
the Inn Pinn. Topping out of An Stac, I
was correct. Charging over and
clambering up the long side of the Pinnacle we met a team. They just stood and froze and ushered us past
with some encouragement. Then on top a
guided party shocked at the situation. ‘How
are you going to get down without a rope?’
They seemed rather concerned. But
I was down and onto Sgurr Dearg before they could understand the situation.
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| Anna climbing down the Inn Pinn |
Then Anna followed in good style. The long slog up Sgurr na Banachdich, Anna
could feel her lack of sleep from nightshifts catching up. The pace slowed a bit. Finlay is on top of Sgurr Nan Gillean
now. It’s quite funny the whole concept
of traversing The Cullin ridge. I love the fact that everyone has a different experience
on the same ground. Its what makes climbing
and mountaineering so enjoyable. The folk on the Inn Pinn can’t comprehend a
soloist, yet I can’t comprehend Finlay Wild moving twice as quick over this
ground. But we all get satisfaction from
being at our own limits. Bidein Drum Na
Ramh played on my mind. The central peak has some tricky down
climbing. I couldn’t recall much about
it as I have always had a rope. Anyway,
Ghreadaidh, and Mhadaidh passed keeping the mind focused.
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| Anna on Sgurr Ghrueadaidh |
Arriving at the top of Bidean, I felt a tad
apprehensive. I get psyched out by
guidebooks. I could still visualise the
sentence saying it was hard. We were
down and up onto the north peak without hassle.
Then there was the psychological grinding section from here to Bruach na
Frithe. Anna was encouraging me to go off
and do my own time. But I felt we
started together and come this far, we should finish it together. She seemed concerned she was holding me
back. Not at all, I was just loving
being up there moving over Britains finest ridge. An Castiel, I made the same mistake I always
do and went right then found myself belly shuffling on the perched blocks on
the narrow ledge back round. Bruach na Frithe
ticked, Naismiths was the last climb.
Having never climbed Naismiths, I felt a tad intimidated. Even though I had a few grades in hand, you still
treat it like an E7. Going up first, I felt
the exposure. Not a place to mess
up. Waiting for Anna half way, I talked
her through the moves. She voiced
concern, I felt concerned myself but kept a cool narrative to relax her
fear. She took a breather whilst I
bobbed on up to the top. A tricky mantel
and I felt it was in the bag. Anna
followed and felt relieved to be on top.
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| Anna climbing up 'Naismiths' |
Am Basteir was passed, with a quick social chat with a previous Assistant
Instructor from the Plas y Brennin. Dumping our bags at the col, we just had
Sgurr nan Gillian left. We stuck together
up the chimney and where the Gendarme used to be, then we moved at our own pace
up the final section. Topping out was
cool. Anna caught up. We sat and took a moment to admire the
surroundings. 6hr 34min. Certainly not breaking any records by any
means but respectable for not really knowing how quickly you could do it. The main thing was, we both enjoyed it and
found it satisfying The rat was fed. For Anna, that complements her winter traverse
which she did in a day. I have no FOMO
of that… well a wee bit ;-). Thanks Anna for a superb day out!
So, Skye came up with the goods. Stairway to heaven, Skye Wall and a day
traverse of the Skye ridge. Possibly one of my best trips. I see Caff has added a new E9 Moonrise Kingdom
to Coir Uisg Buttress. Reading the
interview, that sounds a different ball game.
It’0s not quite made it onto my list of routes to do. But maybe in
future years it may be pencilled on. But
at the moment, I’ll play safe.
Grateful for ssharing this
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